First, an overview of my planning:
I have designed an L-shaped kitchen with an additional island along the wall.
The long side features tall cabinets on both sides of the corner.
The short side under the window must not be as tall as IKEA units, otherwise it would block the window.
It also must not be as deep as IKEA units, otherwise it would obstruct the door.
Here is a top-down overview:
Please don’t mind the missing fronts; I couldn’t add suitable ones in the planner.
Also, the cabinet carcasses available do not have the desired fronts or internal layouts as I want them.
Regarding the long side:
From right to left...
- Vertical filler panel
- Tall cabinet consisting of a 20cm (8 inches) drawer, a 122cm (48 inches) high refrigerator with a 140cm (55 inches) front, and a 60cm (24 inches) compartment above
- Stove niche 200cm (79 inches) wide with wall cabinets, built-in hood, the light wall area is a niche
- Dishwasher placed high, 40cm (16 inches) drawer, dishwasher, 40cm (16 inches) compartment, 60cm (24 inches) compartment (the compartment above the dishwasher may still be adjusted)
- Tall cabinet with oven and combination microwave
- In the corner, the kitchen and coffee machine cabinet (more on this below)
- Vertical filler panel, 5cm (2 inches) wide
Around the corner, it continues with cabinet carcasses 70cm (28 inches) high.
In the corner, there will be a 60x60cm (24x24 inches) cabinet carcass, 220cm (87 inches) high. Next to it, I’ve included the oven tall cabinet for better visualization.
After the continuous plinth, there is an empty corner area. To finish it off, there will be a baseboard preventing anything from falling into the corner.
At countertop height under the window, there is a filler panel to close off the countertop and to gain some distance between the door and the countertop, as the door swings over the countertop.
The door, 40cm (16 inches) high, opens towards the wall, using the UTRUSTA hinge with a 153° opening angle.
Inside is a heavy-duty pull-out – not IKEA, as they do not have a suitable one – with a fixed bottom plate.
This can accommodate the kitchen machine, which I can pull out almost flush with the countertop using additional sliders on the bottom plate.
The next door, also 40cm (16 inches) high and also opening towards the wall with the UTRUSTA hinge 153°, inside another heavy-duty pull-out with fixed bottom plate fits the coffee machine, allowing it to be pulled out at eye level.
Above this, there will be a filler panel, possibly also between the two 40cm (16 inches) doors.
Above that, a 60cm (24 inches) compartment for infrequently used items.
Under the window, the height to the bottom edge of the windowsill is about 83cm (33 inches).
Because there is a door on the left, I only have 57cm (22 inches) rough structural depth. The old door frame will be removed.
We will install a sliding door. The passage inside will be plastered generously, allowing me to gain a few centimeters (inches) of depth on the window side.
There, starting from the right, I want to install a filler panel to maintain clearance on the left side for opening the sliding doors. Then, two 80x60cm (31x24 inches) base cabinet carcasses will follow.
About 17cm (7 inches) of clearance will remain in the left corner for a filler panel.
We want to reduce the height of the carcasses by 10cm (4 inches) and, if possible, also reduce the depth.
The countertop depth will also be reduced (hence the 10cm (4 inches) gap shown in the image).
At the corner door, the sliding door finish will be integrated into the countertop, minimizing any overhang into the door opening.
I want to install drawers in the carcasses.
IKEA offers Maximera drawers in depths of 37cm (15 inches), 45cm (18 inches), and 60cm (24 inches). I would prefer the 60cm (24 inches) deep ones.
My question is:
Are these drawers really 60cm (24 inches) deep in actual drawer length (rail length), meaning that cabinet depth reduction is not possible? Is there maybe 1-2cm (about 1 inch) of play at the back?
After all, the internal accessories like the knife tray are only about 50cm (20 inches) deep.
I don’t want to give up over 20cm (8 inches) of storage depth along the entire width under the window because of 1-2cm (1 inch).
I want to avoid any stepped surface, as I have that currently and no longer want it.
Alternatively, would the Förvara drawers be an easier solution? These are listed with a depth of 52cm (20 inches).
Because of the 70cm (28 inches) height, I plan to install drawers of 40cm (16 inches), 20cm (8 inches), and 10cm (4 inches) height.
For Förvara, I would alternatively use three 20cm (8 inches) and one 10cm (4 inches) drawer.
A brief look at the sink island:
The partition wall hides the sliding doors. There is space in the middle to reach the plumbing as desired.
The island will be 80cm (31 inches) deep. Beside the regular cabinets, narrow cabinets will be installed on each side – 20x60cm (8x24 inches) on the left and 20x40cm (8x16 inches) on the right, shortened to fit.
Maybe someone has an idea for me.
Cheers, Sabine
I have designed an L-shaped kitchen with an additional island along the wall.
The long side features tall cabinets on both sides of the corner.
The short side under the window must not be as tall as IKEA units, otherwise it would block the window.
It also must not be as deep as IKEA units, otherwise it would obstruct the door.
Here is a top-down overview:
Please don’t mind the missing fronts; I couldn’t add suitable ones in the planner.
Also, the cabinet carcasses available do not have the desired fronts or internal layouts as I want them.
Regarding the long side:
From right to left...
- Vertical filler panel
- Tall cabinet consisting of a 20cm (8 inches) drawer, a 122cm (48 inches) high refrigerator with a 140cm (55 inches) front, and a 60cm (24 inches) compartment above
- Stove niche 200cm (79 inches) wide with wall cabinets, built-in hood, the light wall area is a niche
- Dishwasher placed high, 40cm (16 inches) drawer, dishwasher, 40cm (16 inches) compartment, 60cm (24 inches) compartment (the compartment above the dishwasher may still be adjusted)
- Tall cabinet with oven and combination microwave
- In the corner, the kitchen and coffee machine cabinet (more on this below)
- Vertical filler panel, 5cm (2 inches) wide
Around the corner, it continues with cabinet carcasses 70cm (28 inches) high.
In the corner, there will be a 60x60cm (24x24 inches) cabinet carcass, 220cm (87 inches) high. Next to it, I’ve included the oven tall cabinet for better visualization.
After the continuous plinth, there is an empty corner area. To finish it off, there will be a baseboard preventing anything from falling into the corner.
At countertop height under the window, there is a filler panel to close off the countertop and to gain some distance between the door and the countertop, as the door swings over the countertop.
The door, 40cm (16 inches) high, opens towards the wall, using the UTRUSTA hinge with a 153° opening angle.
Inside is a heavy-duty pull-out – not IKEA, as they do not have a suitable one – with a fixed bottom plate.
This can accommodate the kitchen machine, which I can pull out almost flush with the countertop using additional sliders on the bottom plate.
The next door, also 40cm (16 inches) high and also opening towards the wall with the UTRUSTA hinge 153°, inside another heavy-duty pull-out with fixed bottom plate fits the coffee machine, allowing it to be pulled out at eye level.
Above this, there will be a filler panel, possibly also between the two 40cm (16 inches) doors.
Above that, a 60cm (24 inches) compartment for infrequently used items.
Under the window, the height to the bottom edge of the windowsill is about 83cm (33 inches).
Because there is a door on the left, I only have 57cm (22 inches) rough structural depth. The old door frame will be removed.
We will install a sliding door. The passage inside will be plastered generously, allowing me to gain a few centimeters (inches) of depth on the window side.
There, starting from the right, I want to install a filler panel to maintain clearance on the left side for opening the sliding doors. Then, two 80x60cm (31x24 inches) base cabinet carcasses will follow.
About 17cm (7 inches) of clearance will remain in the left corner for a filler panel.
We want to reduce the height of the carcasses by 10cm (4 inches) and, if possible, also reduce the depth.
The countertop depth will also be reduced (hence the 10cm (4 inches) gap shown in the image).
At the corner door, the sliding door finish will be integrated into the countertop, minimizing any overhang into the door opening.
I want to install drawers in the carcasses.
IKEA offers Maximera drawers in depths of 37cm (15 inches), 45cm (18 inches), and 60cm (24 inches). I would prefer the 60cm (24 inches) deep ones.
My question is:
Are these drawers really 60cm (24 inches) deep in actual drawer length (rail length), meaning that cabinet depth reduction is not possible? Is there maybe 1-2cm (about 1 inch) of play at the back?
After all, the internal accessories like the knife tray are only about 50cm (20 inches) deep.
I don’t want to give up over 20cm (8 inches) of storage depth along the entire width under the window because of 1-2cm (1 inch).
I want to avoid any stepped surface, as I have that currently and no longer want it.
Alternatively, would the Förvara drawers be an easier solution? These are listed with a depth of 52cm (20 inches).
Because of the 70cm (28 inches) height, I plan to install drawers of 40cm (16 inches), 20cm (8 inches), and 10cm (4 inches) height.
For Förvara, I would alternatively use three 20cm (8 inches) and one 10cm (4 inches) drawer.
A brief look at the sink island:
The partition wall hides the sliding doors. There is space in the middle to reach the plumbing as desired.
The island will be 80cm (31 inches) deep. Beside the regular cabinets, narrow cabinets will be installed on each side – 20x60cm (8x24 inches) on the left and 20x40cm (8x16 inches) on the right, shortened to fit.
Maybe someone has an idea for me.
Cheers, Sabine
K
Küchenprofessor8 May 2016 04:13hi,
just quickly, if you want to shorten the cabinet height to 70cm (28 inches) and also reduce the depth, will you then install it without the planned mounting brackets?
Placing the sink right at the edge is not recommended; the manufacturer clearly advises against it. According to Danform (a subsidiary of Danielmeyer, which produces the panels for IKEA), at least a 7cm (3 inch) strip must remain. In general, Maximera cabinets don’t extend all the way to the back. Only the cabinet mounting might be an issue.
Just to make sure I understand correctly: is 86cm (34 inches) the height of the window sill or the window frame? If it’s a solid wood panel and not custom-made, it will be 2.8cm (1 inch) thick, which makes the total height only 90.8cm (36 inches).
Best regards,
Sascha
just quickly, if you want to shorten the cabinet height to 70cm (28 inches) and also reduce the depth, will you then install it without the planned mounting brackets?
Placing the sink right at the edge is not recommended; the manufacturer clearly advises against it. According to Danform (a subsidiary of Danielmeyer, which produces the panels for IKEA), at least a 7cm (3 inch) strip must remain. In general, Maximera cabinets don’t extend all the way to the back. Only the cabinet mounting might be an issue.
Just to make sure I understand correctly: is 86cm (34 inches) the height of the window sill or the window frame? If it’s a solid wood panel and not custom-made, it will be 2.8cm (1 inch) thick, which makes the total height only 90.8cm (36 inches).
Best regards,
Sascha
Would a 90cm (35 inch) flat canopy hood be an option? It is installed inside a 60cm (24 inch) wall cabinet, and the lower part is attached to the adjacent wall cabinets. That could work for you; the wall cabinets would just need side panels on the left and right for the 60-60-60 configuration.
The hood only extends forward while cooking; afterward, you slide it back. How high are your wall cabinets installed?
The hood only extends forward while cooking; afterward, you slide it back. How high are your wall cabinets installed?
N
nachtvogel8 May 2016 23:58Hello Sascha,
Yes, we want to mount the carcass—in carpentry terms, so to speak.
For us, this is still less work or effort than building a carcass entirely by ourselves.
This way, the construction and materials remain the same. We can use the same mounting method as on the floor, with the front two screws. If the rear one is omitted, there is another solution.
We have already designed and built several pieces of furniture ourselves... I’m sure we can manage this as well.
After all, there will be drawers inside, so the load will also be supported on the rear mounting through the side panels.
Exactly how much depth we will use can only be measured once the old kitchen is removed and the drawer fronts are installed. It will be in the range of 2–4cm (1–1.5 inches).
It’s not much, which is why I don’t want to switch to the 37.5cm (15 inches) depth. I would lose about 20cm (8 inches) of storage space in both width and height. Especially with the countertop, that makes quite a difference.
Regarding the sink... I need to take another close look...
There will be a custom-made laminate countertop with oak reproduction, decor no. 0520,
with a length of 1.9m (6.2 feet) and a depth of 90cm (35 inches) for the kitchen island.
We are installing the:
Boholmen inset double sink, stainless steel, 99.00, item number 501.142.21
Sink on the left and installed flush with the left edge as much as the carcass allows.
The sink itself is 77cm (30 inches) wide, and the carcass is 80cm (31.5 inches)...
there should be enough space below the sink so that we can gain a few extra centimeters.
Strangely, the planner doesn’t complain about placing the sink that way... hmm...
Apparently, you are familiar with IKEA countertops...
Somehow the entire countertop selection is quite confusing to me.
In the “regular” IKEA range, I can’t find a laminate countertop with a suitable oak wood design.
Only options with solid wood edging or fully solid wood... or birch / walnut, etc.
Am I just missing them, or do they really not exist... oops?
Okay, and for the cabinets under the window—shorter and less deep—pay attention to the cabinet mounting (assembly).
I suspected this already. But I have the info that Maximera cabinets are 55cm (22 inches) deep... and I have 5cm (2 inches) clearance minus the mounting material thickness during assembly.
That matters, especially for the bottom drawer; otherwise, I can’t install it properly... right...
The top edge of the windowsill is 86cm (34 inches). Jura stone, to be installed tomorrow with the new window.
If I lower the side by 10cm (4 inches), I will definitely fit under with a finished dimension of 81.8cm (32 inches).
First, I want the windowsill to be separate; previously it was the countertop, and well... I don’t want that anymore.
Secondly, my daughter has a disability and is smaller, so this height would be much better for her when she helps in the kitchen.
Tomorrow, everything will be removed from that corner anyway... I can take exact measurements and then have the finished dimension of the windowsill.
Then I’ll take another close look at everything.
Thanks already for your help.
Cheers, Sabine
Yes, we want to mount the carcass—in carpentry terms, so to speak.
For us, this is still less work or effort than building a carcass entirely by ourselves.
This way, the construction and materials remain the same. We can use the same mounting method as on the floor, with the front two screws. If the rear one is omitted, there is another solution.
We have already designed and built several pieces of furniture ourselves... I’m sure we can manage this as well.
After all, there will be drawers inside, so the load will also be supported on the rear mounting through the side panels.
Exactly how much depth we will use can only be measured once the old kitchen is removed and the drawer fronts are installed. It will be in the range of 2–4cm (1–1.5 inches).
It’s not much, which is why I don’t want to switch to the 37.5cm (15 inches) depth. I would lose about 20cm (8 inches) of storage space in both width and height. Especially with the countertop, that makes quite a difference.
Regarding the sink... I need to take another close look...
There will be a custom-made laminate countertop with oak reproduction, decor no. 0520,
with a length of 1.9m (6.2 feet) and a depth of 90cm (35 inches) for the kitchen island.
We are installing the:
Boholmen inset double sink, stainless steel, 99.00, item number 501.142.21
Sink on the left and installed flush with the left edge as much as the carcass allows.
The sink itself is 77cm (30 inches) wide, and the carcass is 80cm (31.5 inches)...
there should be enough space below the sink so that we can gain a few extra centimeters.
Strangely, the planner doesn’t complain about placing the sink that way... hmm...
Apparently, you are familiar with IKEA countertops...
Somehow the entire countertop selection is quite confusing to me.
In the “regular” IKEA range, I can’t find a laminate countertop with a suitable oak wood design.
Only options with solid wood edging or fully solid wood... or birch / walnut, etc.
Am I just missing them, or do they really not exist... oops?
Okay, and for the cabinets under the window—shorter and less deep—pay attention to the cabinet mounting (assembly).
I suspected this already. But I have the info that Maximera cabinets are 55cm (22 inches) deep... and I have 5cm (2 inches) clearance minus the mounting material thickness during assembly.
That matters, especially for the bottom drawer; otherwise, I can’t install it properly... right...
The top edge of the windowsill is 86cm (34 inches). Jura stone, to be installed tomorrow with the new window.
If I lower the side by 10cm (4 inches), I will definitely fit under with a finished dimension of 81.8cm (32 inches).
First, I want the windowsill to be separate; previously it was the countertop, and well... I don’t want that anymore.
Secondly, my daughter has a disability and is smaller, so this height would be much better for her when she helps in the kitchen.
Tomorrow, everything will be removed from that corner anyway... I can take exact measurements and then have the finished dimension of the windowsill.
Then I’ll take another close look at everything.
Thanks already for your help.
Cheers, Sabine
I
IKEA-Experte9 May 2016 15:00According to Danform (a subsidiary of Danielmeyer, which manufactures the panels for IKEA), a minimum rib width of 7 cm (2.75 inches) must be maintained.Until recently, Lechner still stated on their website that they supply IKEA. Has IKEA only recently changed suppliers, or have the panels been coming from Danform for some time?
H
Herr_Sondermann9 May 2016 21:36
You get the BOHOLMEN built-in sink with 2 basins, stainless steel for 99.00 Item number: 501.142.21 I also bought the Boholmen version with 1 1/2 basins, No. 598.962.85, back in 2008. So unless they have significantly improved the quality since then, I would rather advise against it considering the overall effort you are putting in. Unless you or people you know have had good experiences with it. In my case, the sink didn’t look good in the end. It might have been due to incorrect cleaning products, but I don’t really think so. I have seen stainless steel sinks that were three times as old but still looked better. I still thought the price-performance ratio was good, but if it’s not just about a few dollars, I would reconsider.
N
nachtvogel29 May 2016 03:49Hello Sondermann,
thank you for the important tip, so the sink is off the list. Stainless steel was never my first choice anyway... none of the shapes really appeal to me. So, it will be a non-Ikea sink. After a lot of back and forth and searching, I ended up with this one:
This is the one I will go for now. I would have preferred ceramic... but well... the shape matters more to me than the material.
thank you for the important tip, so the sink is off the list. Stainless steel was never my first choice anyway... none of the shapes really appeal to me. So, it will be a non-Ikea sink. After a lot of back and forth and searching, I ended up with this one:
This is the one I will go for now. I would have preferred ceramic... but well... the shape matters more to me than the material.
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