First, an overview of my planning:
I have designed an L-shaped kitchen with an additional island along the wall.
The long side features tall cabinets on both sides of the corner.
The short side under the window must not be as tall as IKEA units, otherwise it would block the window.
It also must not be as deep as IKEA units, otherwise it would obstruct the door.
Here is a top-down overview:
Please don’t mind the missing fronts; I couldn’t add suitable ones in the planner.
Also, the cabinet carcasses available do not have the desired fronts or internal layouts as I want them.
Regarding the long side:
From right to left...
- Vertical filler panel
- Tall cabinet consisting of a 20cm (8 inches) drawer, a 122cm (48 inches) high refrigerator with a 140cm (55 inches) front, and a 60cm (24 inches) compartment above
- Stove niche 200cm (79 inches) wide with wall cabinets, built-in hood, the light wall area is a niche
- Dishwasher placed high, 40cm (16 inches) drawer, dishwasher, 40cm (16 inches) compartment, 60cm (24 inches) compartment (the compartment above the dishwasher may still be adjusted)
- Tall cabinet with oven and combination microwave
- In the corner, the kitchen and coffee machine cabinet (more on this below)
- Vertical filler panel, 5cm (2 inches) wide
Around the corner, it continues with cabinet carcasses 70cm (28 inches) high.
In the corner, there will be a 60x60cm (24x24 inches) cabinet carcass, 220cm (87 inches) high. Next to it, I’ve included the oven tall cabinet for better visualization.
After the continuous plinth, there is an empty corner area. To finish it off, there will be a baseboard preventing anything from falling into the corner.
At countertop height under the window, there is a filler panel to close off the countertop and to gain some distance between the door and the countertop, as the door swings over the countertop.
The door, 40cm (16 inches) high, opens towards the wall, using the UTRUSTA hinge with a 153° opening angle.
Inside is a heavy-duty pull-out – not IKEA, as they do not have a suitable one – with a fixed bottom plate.
This can accommodate the kitchen machine, which I can pull out almost flush with the countertop using additional sliders on the bottom plate.
The next door, also 40cm (16 inches) high and also opening towards the wall with the UTRUSTA hinge 153°, inside another heavy-duty pull-out with fixed bottom plate fits the coffee machine, allowing it to be pulled out at eye level.
Above this, there will be a filler panel, possibly also between the two 40cm (16 inches) doors.
Above that, a 60cm (24 inches) compartment for infrequently used items.
Under the window, the height to the bottom edge of the windowsill is about 83cm (33 inches).
Because there is a door on the left, I only have 57cm (22 inches) rough structural depth. The old door frame will be removed.
We will install a sliding door. The passage inside will be plastered generously, allowing me to gain a few centimeters (inches) of depth on the window side.
There, starting from the right, I want to install a filler panel to maintain clearance on the left side for opening the sliding doors. Then, two 80x60cm (31x24 inches) base cabinet carcasses will follow.
About 17cm (7 inches) of clearance will remain in the left corner for a filler panel.
We want to reduce the height of the carcasses by 10cm (4 inches) and, if possible, also reduce the depth.
The countertop depth will also be reduced (hence the 10cm (4 inches) gap shown in the image).
At the corner door, the sliding door finish will be integrated into the countertop, minimizing any overhang into the door opening.
I want to install drawers in the carcasses.
IKEA offers Maximera drawers in depths of 37cm (15 inches), 45cm (18 inches), and 60cm (24 inches). I would prefer the 60cm (24 inches) deep ones.
My question is:
Are these drawers really 60cm (24 inches) deep in actual drawer length (rail length), meaning that cabinet depth reduction is not possible? Is there maybe 1-2cm (about 1 inch) of play at the back?
After all, the internal accessories like the knife tray are only about 50cm (20 inches) deep.
I don’t want to give up over 20cm (8 inches) of storage depth along the entire width under the window because of 1-2cm (1 inch).
I want to avoid any stepped surface, as I have that currently and no longer want it.
Alternatively, would the Förvara drawers be an easier solution? These are listed with a depth of 52cm (20 inches).
Because of the 70cm (28 inches) height, I plan to install drawers of 40cm (16 inches), 20cm (8 inches), and 10cm (4 inches) height.
For Förvara, I would alternatively use three 20cm (8 inches) and one 10cm (4 inches) drawer.
A brief look at the sink island:
The partition wall hides the sliding doors. There is space in the middle to reach the plumbing as desired.
The island will be 80cm (31 inches) deep. Beside the regular cabinets, narrow cabinets will be installed on each side – 20x60cm (8x24 inches) on the left and 20x40cm (8x16 inches) on the right, shortened to fit.
Maybe someone has an idea for me.
Cheers, Sabine
I have designed an L-shaped kitchen with an additional island along the wall.
The long side features tall cabinets on both sides of the corner.
The short side under the window must not be as tall as IKEA units, otherwise it would block the window.
It also must not be as deep as IKEA units, otherwise it would obstruct the door.
Here is a top-down overview:
Please don’t mind the missing fronts; I couldn’t add suitable ones in the planner.
Also, the cabinet carcasses available do not have the desired fronts or internal layouts as I want them.
Regarding the long side:
From right to left...
- Vertical filler panel
- Tall cabinet consisting of a 20cm (8 inches) drawer, a 122cm (48 inches) high refrigerator with a 140cm (55 inches) front, and a 60cm (24 inches) compartment above
- Stove niche 200cm (79 inches) wide with wall cabinets, built-in hood, the light wall area is a niche
- Dishwasher placed high, 40cm (16 inches) drawer, dishwasher, 40cm (16 inches) compartment, 60cm (24 inches) compartment (the compartment above the dishwasher may still be adjusted)
- Tall cabinet with oven and combination microwave
- In the corner, the kitchen and coffee machine cabinet (more on this below)
- Vertical filler panel, 5cm (2 inches) wide
Around the corner, it continues with cabinet carcasses 70cm (28 inches) high.
In the corner, there will be a 60x60cm (24x24 inches) cabinet carcass, 220cm (87 inches) high. Next to it, I’ve included the oven tall cabinet for better visualization.
After the continuous plinth, there is an empty corner area. To finish it off, there will be a baseboard preventing anything from falling into the corner.
At countertop height under the window, there is a filler panel to close off the countertop and to gain some distance between the door and the countertop, as the door swings over the countertop.
The door, 40cm (16 inches) high, opens towards the wall, using the UTRUSTA hinge with a 153° opening angle.
Inside is a heavy-duty pull-out – not IKEA, as they do not have a suitable one – with a fixed bottom plate.
This can accommodate the kitchen machine, which I can pull out almost flush with the countertop using additional sliders on the bottom plate.
The next door, also 40cm (16 inches) high and also opening towards the wall with the UTRUSTA hinge 153°, inside another heavy-duty pull-out with fixed bottom plate fits the coffee machine, allowing it to be pulled out at eye level.
Above this, there will be a filler panel, possibly also between the two 40cm (16 inches) doors.
Above that, a 60cm (24 inches) compartment for infrequently used items.
Under the window, the height to the bottom edge of the windowsill is about 83cm (33 inches).
Because there is a door on the left, I only have 57cm (22 inches) rough structural depth. The old door frame will be removed.
We will install a sliding door. The passage inside will be plastered generously, allowing me to gain a few centimeters (inches) of depth on the window side.
There, starting from the right, I want to install a filler panel to maintain clearance on the left side for opening the sliding doors. Then, two 80x60cm (31x24 inches) base cabinet carcasses will follow.
About 17cm (7 inches) of clearance will remain in the left corner for a filler panel.
We want to reduce the height of the carcasses by 10cm (4 inches) and, if possible, also reduce the depth.
The countertop depth will also be reduced (hence the 10cm (4 inches) gap shown in the image).
At the corner door, the sliding door finish will be integrated into the countertop, minimizing any overhang into the door opening.
I want to install drawers in the carcasses.
IKEA offers Maximera drawers in depths of 37cm (15 inches), 45cm (18 inches), and 60cm (24 inches). I would prefer the 60cm (24 inches) deep ones.
My question is:
Are these drawers really 60cm (24 inches) deep in actual drawer length (rail length), meaning that cabinet depth reduction is not possible? Is there maybe 1-2cm (about 1 inch) of play at the back?
After all, the internal accessories like the knife tray are only about 50cm (20 inches) deep.
I don’t want to give up over 20cm (8 inches) of storage depth along the entire width under the window because of 1-2cm (1 inch).
I want to avoid any stepped surface, as I have that currently and no longer want it.
Alternatively, would the Förvara drawers be an easier solution? These are listed with a depth of 52cm (20 inches).
Because of the 70cm (28 inches) height, I plan to install drawers of 40cm (16 inches), 20cm (8 inches), and 10cm (4 inches) height.
For Förvara, I would alternatively use three 20cm (8 inches) and one 10cm (4 inches) drawer.
A brief look at the sink island:
The partition wall hides the sliding doors. There is space in the middle to reach the plumbing as desired.
The island will be 80cm (31 inches) deep. Beside the regular cabinets, narrow cabinets will be installed on each side – 20x60cm (8x24 inches) on the left and 20x40cm (8x16 inches) on the right, shortened to fit.
Maybe someone has an idea for me.
Cheers, Sabine
I
IKEA-Experte5 May 2016 19:03Now I understand everything. I didn’t notice the (drywall?) wall in the first picture.
If the window can no longer be opened, that’s obviously a problem, but why can it be opened if you don’t replace the windowsill with the countertop, but instead install the countertop in front of the windowsill?
A grease filtration efficiency class D would be a disqualification for me in the under-cabinet range hood.
If the window can no longer be opened, that’s obviously a problem, but why can it be opened if you don’t replace the windowsill with the countertop, but instead install the countertop in front of the windowsill?
A grease filtration efficiency class D would be a disqualification for me in the under-cabinet range hood.
N
nachtvogel5 May 2016 21:19Quick question about the sink: what is it resting on on the right side? Is there still countertop at the edge? (I'm only on my phone, so it's not very clear.)Yes, there is. The sink is only 77cm (30 inches) wide, and I want to position it as far to the left as possible....
N
nachtvogel5 May 2016 22:17Hello IKEA expert,
lol... not so easy with all my details. Yes, the wall will be drywall...
The IKEA kitchen is 91.8cm (36 inches) high... that’s also my ideal height.
My current one is... um... 86 or 87cm (34 or 34.5 inches), I can’t find the exact number right now.
That means it fits now, but with almost 5cm (2 inches) more on top... IKEA height... the kitchen is too high.
That’s why the window side will have only a 70cm (28 inches) cabinet height. I will shorten it in length and depth.
Height = cut down, one fewer 10cm (4 inch) drawer. Depth = cut down by 5cm (2 inches)... that was my question about the Maximera drawers... 5cm less is great.
Drilling holes isn’t a problem, and cutting with a circular saw isn’t either.
Good point... I hadn’t noticed that yet.
No, it doesn’t have to be that. That really isn’t very good. I just read about this after your advice.
Strangely, even cheaper options at IKEA have grease filter efficiency class B.
I also had a wall-mounted hood in close consideration... costs 699 and also only has D, while the cheapest for 229 euros even has C.
uhhhhhhhhhhh yes...
I just thought about it again... no, it really should be a built-in one...
It shouldn’t be deeper than the upper cabinet.
It doesn’t have to be Miele, and not necessarily IKEA either.
Always something new...
Bye, Sabine
lol... not so easy with all my details. Yes, the wall will be drywall...
If the window can no longer be opened, that’s obviously a problem, but why can it be opened if you don’t replace the windowsill with the countertop, but instead place the countertop in front of the windowsill?
The IKEA kitchen is 91.8cm (36 inches) high... that’s also my ideal height.
My current one is... um... 86 or 87cm (34 or 34.5 inches), I can’t find the exact number right now.
That means it fits now, but with almost 5cm (2 inches) more on top... IKEA height... the kitchen is too high.
That’s why the window side will have only a 70cm (28 inches) cabinet height. I will shorten it in length and depth.
Height = cut down, one fewer 10cm (4 inch) drawer. Depth = cut down by 5cm (2 inches)... that was my question about the Maximera drawers... 5cm less is great.
Drilling holes isn’t a problem, and cutting with a circular saw isn’t either.
Grease filter efficiency class D would be a dealbreaker for me for the UNDERCABINET range hood.
Good point... I hadn’t noticed that yet.
No, it doesn’t have to be that. That really isn’t very good. I just read about this after your advice.
Strangely, even cheaper options at IKEA have grease filter efficiency class B.
I also had a wall-mounted hood in close consideration... costs 699 and also only has D, while the cheapest for 229 euros even has C.
uhhhhhhhhhhh yes...
I just thought about it again... no, it really should be a built-in one...
It shouldn’t be deeper than the upper cabinet.
It doesn’t have to be Miele, and not necessarily IKEA either.
Always something new...
Bye, Sabine
I
IKEA-Experte5 May 2016 23:07I haven’t come across any other built-in hoods. Ventilation units look similar but are designed for suspended ceilings and their dimensions don’t fit inside an overhead cabinet.
Can a built-in hood like this really capture the cooking steam effectively when cooking on the front burners?
So far, for an 80cm (31.5 inches) wide cabinet, I haven’t encountered any range hoods except from IKEA and Berbel, but that doesn’t necessarily mean there aren’t any.
Can a built-in hood like this really capture the cooking steam effectively when cooking on the front burners?
So far, for an 80cm (31.5 inches) wide cabinet, I haven’t encountered any range hoods except from IKEA and Berbel, but that doesn’t necessarily mean there aren’t any.
I
IKEA-Experte5 May 2016 23:10If I understand correctly, the cabinets in front of the window will be 82cm (32 inches) high, which is below the windowsill. Therefore, the countertop cannot replace the windowsill.
N
nachtvogel6 May 2016 00:51Exactly.........on May 9th, the new windows for the north side will finally arrive, including those for the kitchen with Jura stone window sill.
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