Hello!
I'll start.
Heated area 200m2 (2,153 sq ft)
KfW 55 standard
Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery
Current outdoor temperature 6°C (43°F)
Heating energy consumption including hot water 35 kWh
Electricity consumption 9 kWh
COP 3.88
I'll start.
Heated area 200m2 (2,153 sq ft)
KfW 55 standard
Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery
Current outdoor temperature 6°C (43°F)
Heating energy consumption including hot water 35 kWh
Electricity consumption 9 kWh
COP 3.88
KingJulien15 Nov 2021 21:44That means it is probably already idling continuously. What more could you want?
KingJulien schrieb:
That means it is probably already running continuously at idle.
What more could you ask for? I just thought it could go even lower.
For example, 20Hz and 400W.
KingJulien15 Nov 2021 22:18You don’t need to set your thermostat that high. For me, it only drops that low at the end of the heating cycle; during other times, the power consumption is already between 0.6 and 0.8 kW.
I don’t think you need to worry about the energy consumption.
What system do you have?
I don’t think you need to worry about the energy consumption.
What system do you have?
KingJulien schrieb:
It doesn’t actually spin that fast. For me, it’s only that low at the end of the heating cycle; in between, at those temperatures, the power consumption is already around 0.6–0.8 kW.
I don’t think you need to worry about consumption.
What do you have installed? Ah, okay, that’s a relief 🙂
How do you mean your question? My current consumption? For November, it’s about 160 kWh for heating and hot water so far.
OWLer schrieb:
![lwwp-aktueller-verbrauch-und-daten-537549-1.png"]66702[/ATTACH]<br />
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Is this the much-criticized pressure relief valve? At least the hydraulic flow goes directly from the supply to the buffer tank on the return side.<br />
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It was set at 150 mbar (2.2 psi) – I increased it to 250 mbar (3.6 psi) and already got more flow on the upper floor. Should I proceed?<br />
</blockquote><br />
The heating technician got back to me after dealing with flood relief and vacation and couldn’t explain who would have set it to 150 mbar (2.2 psi). It definitely couldn’t have been his team because that makes no sense. He also asked how I knew the pump was pushing over 600 mbar (8.7 psi), but he assumes the 350 mbar (5.1 psi) version is correct, since it was delivered as part of the Vaillant set.<br />
<br />
It’s a bit frustrating. He always assumes I’m a complete novice and I have to pull useful answers out of him. On a superficial level, I often feel like he really has no idea about efficiently operating a heat pump. But on a detailed level, it gets better—or even good. The path there is rough and challenging. He seems unable to grasp that I keep all heating circuits open manually since he keeps bringing up minimum flow requirements.<br />
<br />
Understandable from a commercial standpoint if you configure the system to be foolproof, but very tiring for me.<br />
<br />
By the way, today I looked at the datasheet for my actuators for fun. Power consumption is 2 W, which would mean 42 W standby over the whole year for my 21 heating circuits if I set all thermostats to MAX. They actually get significantly warmer when open than my heating circuits.<br />
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[ATTACH type="full" alt="Small white box with barcode, label COMFORT ACTUATOR, image of a black cylinder.](/attachments/67145/)
As a quick measure, I’ve now set all thermostats to frost protection = MIN and manually opened the actuator. I’ll keep an eye on the house’s standby consumption when the heat pump cycles again.OWLer schrieb:
The heating engineer got back to me after dealing with flood relief and vacation regarding my questions, and he can’t explain who would have set it to 150 mbar (millibar). It definitely couldn’t have been his team because that makes no sense. He asked how I knew the pump was pushing over 600 mbar, but he assumes that the 350 mbar setting is correct since that was supplied in the Vaillant kit.
It’s a bit frustrating. He always assumes the user is clueless and I have to coax useful answers out of him. On the surface level of our conversations, I often feel that he really has no idea how to operate a heat pump efficiently. In detail, it gets better or even good. The path there is tough and challenging. It seems he can’t grasp that I have all heating circuits manually open, as he keeps talking about minimum flow requirements.
That makes sense commercially if you configure the system to be foolproof, but it’s very exhausting for me.
By the way, I looked up the datasheet for my actuators today just for fun. Operating power is 2 W, which would mean 42 W standby power over the whole year with my 21 heating circuits, if I turn all the thermostats to MAX. They get significantly warmer in the open position than my heating circuits.
As a quick measure, I turned all the thermostats to frost protection = MIN and manually set the actuators to open. I’ll observe the standby power consumption of the house when the heat pump cycles again. I have the same thermostats. Unfortunately, I don’t have sight glasses to read the liters (flow rate). According to the plumber, there is a chart to set the liters depending on the rotation. Can you say anything about that?
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