Hello!
I'll start.
Heated area 200m2 (2,153 sq ft)
KfW 55 standard
Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery
Current outdoor temperature 6°C (43°F)
Heating energy consumption including hot water 35 kWh
Electricity consumption 9 kWh
COP 3.88
I'll start.
Heated area 200m2 (2,153 sq ft)
KfW 55 standard
Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery
Current outdoor temperature 6°C (43°F)
Heating energy consumption including hot water 35 kWh
Electricity consumption 9 kWh
COP 3.88
RotorMotor schrieb:
The air-to-water heat pump actually produces 640 mbar (9.28 psi), right?!Where does it say that? 😀No, according to the datasheet, it can be turned down to 600 mbar (8.70 psi). Heimeier Hydrolux DN 20.
RotorMotor schrieb:
Did you actually get an additional pump?Doesn't look like it. The heat pump can also deliver the required flow rate after recalibration.
D
Daniel-Sp3 Nov 2021 02:34The ERR must be deactivated and the overflow valve should be closed as much as possible. This is the only way to ensure that all the heat produced by the heat pump goes exclusively into the underfloor heating system.
Regarding legionella protection: this is a very controversial and much-discussed topic.
If you consider a few points, legionella pose no risk in a single-family house. The most important factor is to avoid dead legs with standing water. Therefore, any installed circulation system should be flushed through at least once a day, 5 minutes is sufficient.
Secondly, the hot water tank should be sized according to the needs and regularly completely refreshed with fresh water. For example, a 600-liter (160-gallon) hot water tank for one person would be problematic. For a family, 200-300 liters (50-80 gallons) pose no problem. Even better is, of course, a fresh water station.
A legionella control cycle only makes sense if not only the storage tank is heated above 60°C (140°F), but this temperature is also reached simultaneously at all points in the system. This means that all hot water outlets must be opened simultaneously. Otherwise, you simply select for heat-resistant lines in case of contamination; there are studies on this. If you want to be exact, temperatures well above 60°C (140°F) are needed throughout the system.
During my clinical work for over 10 years in a pulmonary department, which also covered the internal intensive care unit of the hospital, there was not a single case of legionella pneumonia in residents of single-family houses.
Regarding legionella protection: this is a very controversial and much-discussed topic.
If you consider a few points, legionella pose no risk in a single-family house. The most important factor is to avoid dead legs with standing water. Therefore, any installed circulation system should be flushed through at least once a day, 5 minutes is sufficient.
Secondly, the hot water tank should be sized according to the needs and regularly completely refreshed with fresh water. For example, a 600-liter (160-gallon) hot water tank for one person would be problematic. For a family, 200-300 liters (50-80 gallons) pose no problem. Even better is, of course, a fresh water station.
A legionella control cycle only makes sense if not only the storage tank is heated above 60°C (140°F), but this temperature is also reached simultaneously at all points in the system. This means that all hot water outlets must be opened simultaneously. Otherwise, you simply select for heat-resistant lines in case of contamination; there are studies on this. If you want to be exact, temperatures well above 60°C (140°F) are needed throughout the system.
During my clinical work for over 10 years in a pulmonary department, which also covered the internal intensive care unit of the hospital, there was not a single case of legionella pneumonia in residents of single-family houses.
Daniel-Sp schrieb:
The ERR valves should be disabled and the overflow valve should be nearly closed. Only in this way will all the heat produced by the heat pump be delivered exclusively to the underfloor heating.At 4°C (39°F) outside temperature, the pump ran continuously last night and the temperatures are roughly within the target range.
I will contact the heating engineer to ask why only the valve with a 350 mbar (5 psi) setting range was installed. Even just before it is almost completely closed, you can clearly hear flow through the valve, and that can’t be intentional.
D
Daniel-Sp3 Nov 2021 06:47There is no sound coming from my side. The setting is turned all the way up.
KingJulien3 Nov 2021 07:29OWLer schrieb:
Just before fully closed, you can clearly hear flow at the valve, and that can’t be intentional.Yes, that’s the unfortunate reality. In my case, both the supply and return pipes were throttled, and the bypass valve was loosely set, even while heating the screed with an electric heating rod. I don’t even want to think about the extra electricity cost from the heating basically running inefficiently in its own loop.
Never trust a heating installer 😉
R
RotorMotor3 Nov 2021 07:42OWLer schrieb:
Where does it say that? 😀 Just google your pump. Under technical specifications, you’ll find the pump flow rate and the remaining head pressure in parentheses.
OWLer schrieb:
No, according to the datasheet you can turn it down to 600. Heimeier Hydrolux DN 20. But you have the "standard" Vaillant model with up to 350 mbar (5 psi), right?
That should be enough, though.
I think it only needs to be higher than the loop with the greatest resistance.
How long was your longest loop again?
OWLer schrieb:
It doesn’t look like it. The heat pump can also deliver the required flow rate by readjustment. What flow rate do you need according to the calculation, and what is the pump currently delivering?
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