Hello,
We are starting to get really frustrated... every builder tells us something different...
We want to build a 130sqm (1,399 sq ft) KfW 70 house with the living room facing south, and we are unsure whether to choose gas or an air source heat pump. Some providers, at almost the same price level, offer us air source heat pumps and claim that the annual costs are significantly (30%) lower compared to gas, while others doubt this.
We understand that insulation with gas/solar systems is usually better because an air source heat pump boosts efficiency more towards KfW 70 standards compared to gas/solar, which might argue in favor of gas. An air source heat pump might fail somewhat sooner, and in case of problems, you can usually get quick and competent local support with gas. With air source heat pumps, there could be more difficulties. Additionally, the noise of air source heat pumps (in our case about 3 meters (10 feet) from the neighbor) is not insignificant. Some say that sooner or later, everyone ends up having issues with neighbors for this reason.
We are interested in air source heat pumps with storage tanks from these providers: Vaillant, Mitsubishi Zubadan, and Rotex.
What we are really curious about is the annual cost for heating and hot water with both systems.
We live near Kassel.
What should we choose, and what would be cost-effective TODAY? What is your opinion on Vaillant?
Regards
Gigi
We are starting to get really frustrated... every builder tells us something different...
We want to build a 130sqm (1,399 sq ft) KfW 70 house with the living room facing south, and we are unsure whether to choose gas or an air source heat pump. Some providers, at almost the same price level, offer us air source heat pumps and claim that the annual costs are significantly (30%) lower compared to gas, while others doubt this.
We understand that insulation with gas/solar systems is usually better because an air source heat pump boosts efficiency more towards KfW 70 standards compared to gas/solar, which might argue in favor of gas. An air source heat pump might fail somewhat sooner, and in case of problems, you can usually get quick and competent local support with gas. With air source heat pumps, there could be more difficulties. Additionally, the noise of air source heat pumps (in our case about 3 meters (10 feet) from the neighbor) is not insignificant. Some say that sooner or later, everyone ends up having issues with neighbors for this reason.
We are interested in air source heat pumps with storage tanks from these providers: Vaillant, Mitsubishi Zubadan, and Rotex.
What we are really curious about is the annual cost for heating and hot water with both systems.
We live near Kassel.
What should we choose, and what would be cost-effective TODAY? What is your opinion on Vaillant?
Regards
Gigi
R
R.Hotzenplotz7 Jan 2018 21:17What does "not leaving it to the heating engineer" mean? If the general contractor sells it to me and installs it, then it should work.
It doesn’t look any better for the 300 either. Oh man. I haven’t even started looking into the reliability of the solar system from the same manufacturer yet.
It doesn’t look any better for the 300 either. Oh man. I haven’t even started looking into the reliability of the solar system from the same manufacturer yet.
First of all, it should be noted that only people with problems tend to write on the internet. So this is not representative.
Gas/solar systems also need to be properly installed and calibrated.
The home builder (HB) can only do the following (regardless of which one):
Install the heating system well, perform a good basic setup, correctly design the underfloor heating, carry out the hydraulic balancing, and provide you with enough instructions about the system so that you can make the fine adjustments yourself.
Because adjusting the heating curve properly is something they cannot do. Only you live there and can explicitly adapt it to your needs.
The default setting “just warm enough” is especially problematic with a heat pump.
By the way, issues with the Nibe unit are not covered under standard maintenance.
Gas/solar systems also need to be properly installed and calibrated.
The home builder (HB) can only do the following (regardless of which one):
Install the heating system well, perform a good basic setup, correctly design the underfloor heating, carry out the hydraulic balancing, and provide you with enough instructions about the system so that you can make the fine adjustments yourself.
Because adjusting the heating curve properly is something they cannot do. Only you live there and can explicitly adapt it to your needs.
The default setting “just warm enough” is especially problematic with a heat pump.
By the way, issues with the Nibe unit are not covered under standard maintenance.
R.Hotzenplotz schrieb:
No, there is no door at the basement stairs on the ground floor. And as far as I know, there are no other special measures.
How can this still be fixed? I don’t need a large heating system just to heat a guest room and a hobby room while the temperature in the other basement rooms and hallway doesn’t matter. I don’t know anyone who heats their entire basement. That’s madness.We have a radiator in every basement room (except the utility/technical room) powered by gas. Of course, the workshop isn’t heated as much as the office.We wanted to avoid thermal bridges at the ventilation system pipes.
R
R.Hotzenplotz8 Jan 2018 16:50Today, I spoke with a drilling company that carried out a deep drilling operation in our village about a year ago. They cannot understand at all why our general contractor’s installer was told that drilling should not exceed 30 meters (100 feet) in depth. I then contacted the local water authority, who immediately said that while there are such restrictions in other districts, apparently not in ours. However, this was not the final case handler. I was asked to submit the land registry map with our property, and then they will send me an official response. The drilling company is so confident that this will work out that they will provide me with an offer by tomorrow. They mentioned around 170 meters (560 feet) of drilling if drilling down to 100 meters (330 feet) is allowed. This depth is sufficient for the required yield. If things don’t go badly, we should be able to stay within the originally planned drilling costs of €15,000 and keep the initial plan.
It is now being investigated who told the installer that drilling was only allowed to 30 meters (100 feet) depth.
Let’s hope it turns out this way, as the ground source heat pump is probably by far the best option.
It is now being investigated who told the installer that drilling was only allowed to 30 meters (100 feet) depth.
Let’s hope it turns out this way, as the ground source heat pump is probably by far the best option.
R
R.Hotzenplotz8 Jan 2018 19:14I have more the impression that it’s due to the general contractor’s service provider, specifically the installer. Their statement might have been trusted. But I’m not yet 100% sure that it will work. However, I’m optimistic. Still, I’m stuck on the Exot Waterkotte with the AI 1 Geo. But a geothermal heat pump with a corresponding COP is worth it to me.
I really need to read up on the design of the underfloor heating. And especially keep in mind how to check it in time. I think that if we mostly finalize the detailed planning on Wednesday and order some parts, everything has to be set by then.
I really need to read up on the design of the underfloor heating. And especially keep in mind how to check it in time. I think that if we mostly finalize the detailed planning on Wednesday and order some parts, everything has to be set by then.
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