ᐅ Adjusting BILLY Shelf Boards – Is Custom Modification Possible?

I agree with BiDennis and would like to add: If you don’t have a table saw, a plunge-cut jigsaw can be very helpful. It allows you to make clean cuts and keep the edges splinter-free.

For sealing the cut edges, I use varnish or wood glue mixed with a bit of paint that hardens, preventing the material from swelling. This is often underestimated and can lead to unsightly swelling later on.

Also, when adjusting the depth, check how the shelf is fixed to the back panel. Especially with shallower depths, the back panel may no longer fit properly, which can reduce the overall stability of the shelf.

You might also want to plan for angled cuts, for example if you’re building the shelf into a niche.

You can cut the shelves to depth using a circular saw. However, be careful with the recesses for the dowels. It's best to drill first and then saw.

Cutting to width would be more complicated, as the side panels would no longer fit.

For attaching new drill holes, simply use small brackets for reinforcement.

Billy floors can be cut to size, and repositioning the roll nipples is also possible.

However, if you change the width, you need to adjust the side walls; otherwise, it will become unstable.

For more stable floors, use multilayer panels.

Thanks in advance for the initial information!

@Surela, I would really like to follow your step-by-step recommendations – I only have a jigsaw available. What characteristics should the saw blade have, and how do you handle finishing the cut edge? My shelf will only have moderate load, mainly books and DVDs, so nothing too heavy.

Also, could you explain in more detail the best way to drill new holes for the brackets? I’m a bit worried about the wood splintering or the holes not being perfectly clean.

Who among you has flexible solutions for positioning the brackets in case I want to adjust the spacing or depth a bit?

Hello Usgla4,

for the jigsaw, I recommend a fine-toothed blade designed for laminate or metal (there are specific blades for wood-based panels with foil coating). These blades cut cleanly and prevent the melamine layer from chipping. It’s also important to saw slowly and without applying too much pressure.

For the finish: gently sand the edges with fine sandpaper (120-180 grit), then be sure to seal them with a water-based wood varnish or a varnish pen. This will prevent moisture from penetrating the wood and causing it to swell.

For new drill holes: it’s best to pre-drill with a small wood drill bit (diameter fitting for the dowel pins), and lightly score the wood beforehand to avoid splintering (for example, with a sharp knife). Limit the drilling depth to avoid drilling too deep and causing splinters.

If you want to position the supports flexibly, you can consider using flat shelf rails with small clips in addition to the original metal dowels. These rails can be moved as needed and are available in many furniture accessory stores.

I’m curious to hear how it goes for you!

Usgla4 schrieb:
Can you explain in more detail how to best create new drill holes for the beams?

I’ll jump right in here: When drilling new holes, it helps to use a drill bit with a break-off edge or a depth stop. If you don’t have one, you can mark the drill bit with tape to avoid drilling too deep.

Applying tape across the drilling spot (perpendicular to the wood grain) can also minimize splintering. Just stick the tape on before drilling and drill through the tape.

For positioning: it’s best to use a drill jig or at least a ruler and tape measure to maintain even spacing. This way, it works well for all floors later and the holes will be clean.

If the beams need new measurements, you can also use small angle washers to help distribute the load.

Good luck!