Hello
I have purchased a newly built semi-detached house.
The entire first floor and attic (except the bathroom) will be covered with vinyl flooring.
All rooms have underfloor heating.
I have read that self-adhesive vinyl is better suited because the vinyl is in direct contact with the floor, which allows the heat to transfer more effectively than with tiles. Additionally, the impact sound insulation is said to be much better and more durable.
In all rooms, the screed will be installed as a floating floor.
Question:
Is the floating screed surface smooth enough at the end to apply the self-adhesive vinyl directly,
or does the floor need to be sanded first to achieve a smooth surface?
I have purchased a newly built semi-detached house.
The entire first floor and attic (except the bathroom) will be covered with vinyl flooring.
All rooms have underfloor heating.
I have read that self-adhesive vinyl is better suited because the vinyl is in direct contact with the floor, which allows the heat to transfer more effectively than with tiles. Additionally, the impact sound insulation is said to be much better and more durable.
In all rooms, the screed will be installed as a floating floor.
Question:
Is the floating screed surface smooth enough at the end to apply the self-adhesive vinyl directly,
or does the floor need to be sanded first to achieve a smooth surface?
Yes, unfortunately. However, applying leveling compound is not difficult. Check YouTube; there are videos showing how to do it. After the leveling compound has cured, you can sand off any small ridges or bumps using a concrete stone, for example, a brick paver, if you don’t have a floor sander. Then vacuum thoroughly and start with the adhesive application. Apply the adhesive with a notched trowel about three rows wide, let it set slightly, lay three rows, then apply more adhesive, and so on.
You are misunderstanding the original poster. He does not want to glue vinyl (applying adhesive to the floor and then laying vinyl on top), but rather use ready-made vinyl planks with adhesive strips already attached to them. You simply peel off the protective film on the bottom and stick them directly to the floor. I have done this myself during a renovation, although we did not stick them onto a screed. The planks are very thin, and I also assume that any unevenness will be visible and noticeable. You won’t be able to avoid using leveling compound and/or sanding.
@ Pwnage619:
There are now many tips for installation following the posts, including accurate statements.
I will summarize them here with my own comments:
1. PVC planks with factory-applied dry adhesive on the back are to be installed.
2. The substrate in the residential building is a self-leveling screed (probably CAS-based), in which heating elements have been installed (hydronic underfloor heating).
3. Due to unevenness, which cannot be entirely avoided even with self-leveling screeds, these unwanted textures will show through the top layer if the screed surface is not leveled beforehand!
4. If the entire surface is not sanded beforehand (as a mandatory cleaning/grit sanding), the PVC planks—if installed directly on the screed—will likely detach in several places, even if not completely across the entire surface, at least at the edges. Repairing this during the apartment’s use phase is more than just inconvenient. Furthermore, the chosen method of not leveling the surface goes against the generally acknowledged rules of the trade (with the exception of solid hardwood flooring)!
Conclusion:
What Pwnage619 is aiming for is a special construction that will very likely not work.
The adhesive strength of the dry adhesive is counteracted by a substrate that is improperly pretreated, but the PVC planks must be able to achieve adequate adhesion to the installation surface under the thermal load of the underfloor heating. And they certainly will not, at least not everywhere!
Where the PVC planks do adhere firmly, the textures of the self-leveling screed (which occur at least during degassing immediately after installation, also known as “sloshing”) will inevitably show through.
[B]If you weigh the additional effort (sanding, vacuuming, priming + leveling) against the risk—which consists of foreseeable damage plus the effort of a complete repair during the occupancy phase, not to mention less than satisfactory surface appearance—then the decision regarding the installation method should at least be made in favor of the sanding and leveling process based on these findings.
------------------------
Regards, KlaRa
There are now many tips for installation following the posts, including accurate statements.
I will summarize them here with my own comments:
1. PVC planks with factory-applied dry adhesive on the back are to be installed.
2. The substrate in the residential building is a self-leveling screed (probably CAS-based), in which heating elements have been installed (hydronic underfloor heating).
3. Due to unevenness, which cannot be entirely avoided even with self-leveling screeds, these unwanted textures will show through the top layer if the screed surface is not leveled beforehand!
4. If the entire surface is not sanded beforehand (as a mandatory cleaning/grit sanding), the PVC planks—if installed directly on the screed—will likely detach in several places, even if not completely across the entire surface, at least at the edges. Repairing this during the apartment’s use phase is more than just inconvenient. Furthermore, the chosen method of not leveling the surface goes against the generally acknowledged rules of the trade (with the exception of solid hardwood flooring)!
Conclusion:
What Pwnage619 is aiming for is a special construction that will very likely not work.
The adhesive strength of the dry adhesive is counteracted by a substrate that is improperly pretreated, but the PVC planks must be able to achieve adequate adhesion to the installation surface under the thermal load of the underfloor heating. And they certainly will not, at least not everywhere!
Where the PVC planks do adhere firmly, the textures of the self-leveling screed (which occur at least during degassing immediately after installation, also known as “sloshing”) will inevitably show through.
[B]If you weigh the additional effort (sanding, vacuuming, priming + leveling) against the risk—which consists of foreseeable damage plus the effort of a complete repair during the occupancy phase, not to mention less than satisfactory surface appearance—then the decision regarding the installation method should at least be made in favor of the sanding and leveling process based on these findings.
------------------------
Regards, KlaRa
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