Hello,
we are demolishing a 500-year-old Jura farmhouse, and of course I’m salvaging everything that can still be reused. Also because the house holds a lot of memories from my (grandparents’) generation.
The floor of the house is made entirely of Jura marble slabs, as old as the house itself (about 500-550 years). Some are naturally broken, but so far we’ve already recovered several good stacks just from the kitchen.
What do you think would be good ideas for using them in our new build project? Indoors or outdoors? Also, I’m not sure how to prepare them, since they are too thick for tiles, for example, and I’m worried that if used outside, they might crack from freezing...
There are even larger hexagonal slabs, it would really be a shame to waste these valuable pieces!
Here are a few pictures:
we are demolishing a 500-year-old Jura farmhouse, and of course I’m salvaging everything that can still be reused. Also because the house holds a lot of memories from my (grandparents’) generation.
The floor of the house is made entirely of Jura marble slabs, as old as the house itself (about 500-550 years). Some are naturally broken, but so far we’ve already recovered several good stacks just from the kitchen.
What do you think would be good ideas for using them in our new build project? Indoors or outdoors? Also, I’m not sure how to prepare them, since they are too thick for tiles, for example, and I’m worried that if used outside, they might crack from freezing...
There are even larger hexagonal slabs, it would really be a shame to waste these valuable pieces!
Here are a few pictures:
In the past, such tiles were installed with thick-bed mortar, which also helps with leveling. However, I can imagine that hardly any tile installer learns or masters this technique nowadays 😉
Just ask around.
And definitely avoid a country-style look— a sleek, minimalist kitchen or guest bathroom would be perfect 🙂
You could also create a tiled splashback: simply offset the kitchen by the thickness of the material.
Do you possibly have a solid wall where you could afford to lose a few centimeters (inches)?
Just ask around.
And definitely avoid a country-style look— a sleek, minimalist kitchen or guest bathroom would be perfect 🙂
You could also create a tiled splashback: simply offset the kitchen by the thickness of the material.
Do you possibly have a solid wall where you could afford to lose a few centimeters (inches)?
The kitchen will actually be very minimalist... but my wife doesn't want tiles there. A tiled splashback isn’t an option because the kitchen has a large window where a splashback would normally go; otherwise, there are no walls in the kitchen. If anything, only the entrance area would be left, or maybe I’ll come up with another nice idea. A guest toilet also sounds appealing, but it’s probably even more complicated than the entrance area.
K
Knallkörper4 Sep 2017 22:25We faced a similar decision. We were given old marble in various sizes up to 2 x 2 meters (6.5 x 6.5 feet) in green color. Thickness was 25mm and 30mm (1 inch and 1.2 inches). It would have been installed directly on the heated screed. Technically, this was no problem and had already been planned, even with installation diagrams, but in our case, the color was the reason the idea was abandoned. So technically, it is definitely feasible.
Hi,
I don’t see any problem with this. The typical floor structure consists of a few centimeters (centimeters) of impact sound insulation, then the panels for the underfloor heating, followed by the screed. If you reduce the impact sound insulation by 2cm (1 inch), you can already compensate for the height difference. Alternatively, you can make the impact sound insulation in the rest of the house 1cm (0.4 inch) thicker and reduce it by 1cm (0.4 inch) at this spot. This way, you can easily compensate for the additional 2cm (1 inch) compared to the tiles. This does not cause any extra work, neither for the screed nor for other components. The screed itself should not be made thinner, as it may then crack.
I don’t see any problem with this. The typical floor structure consists of a few centimeters (centimeters) of impact sound insulation, then the panels for the underfloor heating, followed by the screed. If you reduce the impact sound insulation by 2cm (1 inch), you can already compensate for the height difference. Alternatively, you can make the impact sound insulation in the rest of the house 1cm (0.4 inch) thicker and reduce it by 1cm (0.4 inch) at this spot. This way, you can easily compensate for the additional 2cm (1 inch) compared to the tiles. This does not cause any extra work, neither for the screed nor for other components. The screed itself should not be made thinner, as it may then crack.
KingSong schrieb:
Apart from the marble floor, the only other potentially valuable elements from the entire timber frame would be the oak beams, but mostly for furniture making. We were amazed by the number of carpenters who called us when it became known that this Jura house was going to be demolished.... Otherwise, the house consists mainly of clay, straw, bricks, and the natural slate roof. You might want to check with suppliers of historic building materials. They can probably tell you what they would be willing to take from your house. Are there any old doors, windows, shutters, etc.? These could be interesting for decorative purposes or for antique dealers.
miho schrieb:
Take a look for suppliers of reclaimed building materials. To be honest, when I think about the trade margin, I was more referring to selling it yourself rather than involving professionals in between.
Unless the professional says, “Give me everything upfront, no commission, cash on the spot.” Then you save the hassle of storage and waiting for someone to want it and secure the (smaller) profit immediately.
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