ᐅ Is there a guide on how to reinforce the shelves of the Ikea BRIMNES shelving unit?
Created on: 28 Jan 2023 08:43
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DeoquintGood morning everyone, I am facing the problem of stabilizing my Ikea Brimnes shelves because they visibly bend under moderate load. I wonder if there is a detailed guide or proven methods to reliably reinforce these already relatively thin shelves without affecting the appearance or altering the frame. I am particularly interested in whether additional reinforcements can be installed invisibly – for example, by gluing in metal profiles, adding extra support strips, or reinforcement plates underneath. Has anyone had experience with these methods or perhaps knows of Ikea accessories for this? What are your recommendations or construction instructions to ensure long-lasting durability? Thanks in advance for your help!
Regarding the stabilization of BRIMNES shelves, I can say the following: The shelves are usually made of particle board with a veneer overlay, which limits their load-bearing capacity. A practical and proven method is to attach a thin metal or aluminum profile strip underneath the shelves by gluing or screwing it on – this effectively reinforces them. It is best to use an adhesive suitable for both wood and metal. Alternatively, wooden strips glued under the shelf can help increase its strength – the strips should be at least 1.5 to 2 cm (0.6 to 0.8 inches) thick. Important: The strips must be cut precisely to fit in order to minimize visual impact. Additional drilling or screws in the top shelf frame are not necessary, as this could unnecessarily compromise the overall stability of the unit. If appearance is a major concern, I would recommend attaching the reinforcements from underneath, as they will hardly be visible later on.
bupar schrieb:
Regarding the stabilization of the BRIMNES shelves, I can say the following: The shelves are usually made of particleboard with a veneer finish, which limits their load capacity.However, this statement cannot be generalized so easily. The load capacity greatly depends on the width and depth of the shelves as well as whether they are additionally supported by the side frames.
Therefore, I would like to know more precisely: What kind of load do you want to stabilize the shelves for? Are you storing regular books, heavy equipment, or possibly unevenly distributed weights? Only based on that can the appropriate reinforcement methods be chosen.
In general, any retrofitting reinforcement is a compromise since it is often visually noticeable or requires effort. I therefore wonder if it might be more sensible to look for suitable replacement shelves made of solid wood or thicker material instead of going for a complicated DIY solution.
I would like to share a detailed approach that is considered very effective in some DIY communities, especially for IKEA furniture with thinner panels like the BRIMNES shelves:
- First, it is important to measure the maximum span of the shelf, meaning the width between the support surfaces.
- A proven trick is to insert concealed metal profiles (U- or L-shaped aluminum) along the underside of the shelf board. These profiles must be precisely cut to the shelf’s width.
- The profiles are fixed with strong mounting adhesive or thin screws (depending on visibility). Screws should preferably be inserted from below to protect the surface.
- Alternatively, narrow wooden strips (at least 2 cm (0.8 inches) high, 1–1.5 cm (0.4–0.6 inches) wide) made of beech or spruce can be glued to the underside, which can be bonded to the shelf and additionally screwed from the inside.
- Another option is to reduce the unsupported span by adding extra support pillars or vertical intermediate supports—for example, by installing a center support if the shelf is wide.
Of course, the choice of method also depends on what aesthetic compromises you are willing to accept. I would be interested to know exactly what you are using the shelves for so that I can provide more tailored recommendations.
- First, it is important to measure the maximum span of the shelf, meaning the width between the support surfaces.
- A proven trick is to insert concealed metal profiles (U- or L-shaped aluminum) along the underside of the shelf board. These profiles must be precisely cut to the shelf’s width.
- The profiles are fixed with strong mounting adhesive or thin screws (depending on visibility). Screws should preferably be inserted from below to protect the surface.
- Alternatively, narrow wooden strips (at least 2 cm (0.8 inches) high, 1–1.5 cm (0.4–0.6 inches) wide) made of beech or spruce can be glued to the underside, which can be bonded to the shelf and additionally screwed from the inside.
- Another option is to reduce the unsupported span by adding extra support pillars or vertical intermediate supports—for example, by installing a center support if the shelf is wide.
Of course, the choice of method also depends on what aesthetic compromises you are willing to accept. I would be interested to know exactly what you are using the shelves for so that I can provide more tailored recommendations.
theo63 schrieb:
I’m wondering if it might be more practical to look for replacement shelves made of solid wood or thicker material instead of a complicated DIY solution.Thank you, that raises an important point. I want to use the shelf for books and occasionally heavier collectible albums, which significantly exceed the weight of some books. Replacement wooden shelves would actually be the best solution, but I can hardly find panels that are an exact fit with optimal edge finishing, width, and suitable thickness.
I want to avoid spoiling the appearance with visible metal brackets or overly thick wooden strips. Invisible reinforcement solutions would therefore be the preferred choice.
Gafiel schrieb:
Another option is to reduce the load points by adding extra support posts or vertical intermediate supports.I have considered that as well, but the shelves are quite narrow (about 61 cm (24 inches) wide). Would a central support be oversized for such a width, or can it also work easily with thin material as a DIY project?
I am very familiar with this issue because I have BRIMNES shelves used in a similar way. It is really frustrating when the shelves start to sag after some time, especially since I wasn’t willing to replace them entirely.
What worked well for me was a combination of several things:
- Thin, sturdy strips glued underneath the shelves, which are almost invisible since they were cut to fit precisely and placed at the edges.
- I also added a central reinforcement made of plywood inside the shelves – this really made a difference.
However, I was initially hesitant to carry out these modifications because I didn’t want to damage the furniture.
I understand that concerns about aesthetics and extra effort are significant factors. But in the end, what matters is that the shelves hold up without slipping or making noise.
The combination of strips plus a central support seems like a good compromise to me.
What worked well for me was a combination of several things:
- Thin, sturdy strips glued underneath the shelves, which are almost invisible since they were cut to fit precisely and placed at the edges.
- I also added a central reinforcement made of plywood inside the shelves – this really made a difference.
However, I was initially hesitant to carry out these modifications because I didn’t want to damage the furniture.
I understand that concerns about aesthetics and extra effort are significant factors. But in the end, what matters is that the shelves hold up without slipping or making noise.
The combination of strips plus a central support seems like a good compromise to me.
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