Hello everyone, I want to upgrade my IKEA Malm dresser with additional drawers. Unfortunately, I no longer have the original drawer set and wonder how I can retrofit these without having to buy a complete new dresser. Are there practical solutions that are also reliable in terms of stability and functionality? Additionally, I would like to know if it’s better to use the original drawer slides or if there are compatible alternatives that you would recommend. Who has experience with retrofitting MALM drawers and can share specific tips on materials, tools, or techniques? Thanks a lot!
Hello Balzdan,
Regarding your question about retrofitting MALM drawers, I would like to provide some detailed advice. First of all, it’s important to know that the MALM series from IKEA uses metal ball-bearing drawer slides, which are optimized for a certain load capacity. If you only want to replace the drawers, I recommend keeping the original runner rails (mounted on the bottom and sides) or measuring them carefully, as replacement drawers may not slide smoothly otherwise.
If you no longer have the original drawers, you can either buy used ones or make your own. For DIY drawers, plywood or MDF panels with edge banding are particularly suitable because they are stable and less prone to warping. I would also recommend making the drawer sides at least 16mm (5/8 inch) thick to ensure shape stability.
When installing: pay close attention to the exact alignment of the slides — even a tiny deviation can cause the drawer to jam. If you want to replace the drawer slides themselves, there are compatible full-extension runners, for example from Blum or Hettich, which you would need to mechanically adjust. These are often of higher quality than the IKEA originals but require some craftsmanship and precise measurement of the drawer dimensions including installation height.
A quick question: How good are your DIY skills? And do you want the retrofit to be as close to the original as possible, or is some customization acceptable? I can provide more specific advice based on that!
Regarding your question about retrofitting MALM drawers, I would like to provide some detailed advice. First of all, it’s important to know that the MALM series from IKEA uses metal ball-bearing drawer slides, which are optimized for a certain load capacity. If you only want to replace the drawers, I recommend keeping the original runner rails (mounted on the bottom and sides) or measuring them carefully, as replacement drawers may not slide smoothly otherwise.
If you no longer have the original drawers, you can either buy used ones or make your own. For DIY drawers, plywood or MDF panels with edge banding are particularly suitable because they are stable and less prone to warping. I would also recommend making the drawer sides at least 16mm (5/8 inch) thick to ensure shape stability.
When installing: pay close attention to the exact alignment of the slides — even a tiny deviation can cause the drawer to jam. If you want to replace the drawer slides themselves, there are compatible full-extension runners, for example from Blum or Hettich, which you would need to mechanically adjust. These are often of higher quality than the IKEA originals but require some craftsmanship and precise measurement of the drawer dimensions including installation height.
A quick question: How good are your DIY skills? And do you want the retrofit to be as close to the original as possible, or is some customization acceptable? I can provide more specific advice based on that!
Hello,
Here is my approach to retrofitting MALM drawers: First, you need to accurately measure the existing drawer slides (depth, width, height). It is important to measure the guide rails precisely – a small measuring jig or simply a tape measure can be helpful here.
Step 1: Inventory – are the drawer slides intact and functional? If so, I strongly recommend continuing to use them, as replicating or adapting alternative slide systems can be quite complex.
Step 2: Drawer material – use 18 mm (0.7 inch) thick MDF or plywood panels. Plywood is more durable, while MDF is easier to cut. Cut the parts precisely and assemble the drawer using dowels and wood glue to ensure long-lasting stability.
Step 3: Installing the drawer front – it is worth aligning it using a guide rail and testing the fit before firmly screwing it on.
Step 4: Assembly – when attaching the drawers to the slides, make sure to align them vertically; otherwise, the drawers may quickly hang crooked or not run smoothly.
A tip: first screw the side panels together, then attach the front panel – this will give you sturdy drawer boxes.
Summary:
- Keep original slides whenever possible
- Build drawers yourself using 18 mm (0.7 inch) wood panels
- Precise measuring and alignment is essential
Good luck!
Here is my approach to retrofitting MALM drawers: First, you need to accurately measure the existing drawer slides (depth, width, height). It is important to measure the guide rails precisely – a small measuring jig or simply a tape measure can be helpful here.
Step 1: Inventory – are the drawer slides intact and functional? If so, I strongly recommend continuing to use them, as replicating or adapting alternative slide systems can be quite complex.
Step 2: Drawer material – use 18 mm (0.7 inch) thick MDF or plywood panels. Plywood is more durable, while MDF is easier to cut. Cut the parts precisely and assemble the drawer using dowels and wood glue to ensure long-lasting stability.
Step 3: Installing the drawer front – it is worth aligning it using a guide rail and testing the fit before firmly screwing it on.
Step 4: Assembly – when attaching the drawers to the slides, make sure to align them vertically; otherwise, the drawers may quickly hang crooked or not run smoothly.
A tip: first screw the side panels together, then attach the front panel – this will give you sturdy drawer boxes.
Summary:
- Keep original slides whenever possible
- Build drawers yourself using 18 mm (0.7 inch) wood panels
- Precise measuring and alignment is essential
Good luck!
kulau schrieb:
If you no longer have the original drawers, you can either buy used ones or build your own.I know the problem with used drawers very well – I searched for a long time and went through several dressers before finding matching parts on eBay. It can be frustrating at times, but it’s worth the effort.
In my opinion, anyone who is reasonably skilled at DIY has a good chance to create a very good solution by building them yourself. Especially with MALM, you notice that the drawer runners are quite precise, and things can go wrong if you don’t stick exactly to the measurements.
DEOLAU schrieb:
You should keep the original drawer slides if you have them, as they fit best.I agree – the original slides are well balanced, and replacing them often requires measuring, drilling, and some modifications, which not everyone finds easy. If you have any doubts, take your time to measure carefully.
Maybe this helps you?
For retrofitting MALM drawers: It is technically correct to continue using the original drawer slides. The dimensions are usually 50 cm (20 inches) in depth, and the slides are designed for drawer bottom material thicknesses of about 16-18 mm (5/8–3/4 inch).
It is important that the drawer box dimensions closely match the original measurements to ensure smooth operation.
Use either plywood or MDF, both have proven reliable. Install the drawers with at least a 4 mm (0.16 inch) clearance in width inside the slides; otherwise, sanding or adjustment will be necessary.
As kulau already mentioned, precise alignment of the slides and drawer hardware is essential.
If you want to switch to a retrofit system, I recommend ball-bearing drawer slides from Blum, as they are durable and offer high load capacity. However, precise drilling for mounting is required.
Be careful when working with the slides—there is a risk of injury from sharp edges! Use screws of the appropriate length so nothing protrudes through the cabinet walls.
It is important that the drawer box dimensions closely match the original measurements to ensure smooth operation.
Use either plywood or MDF, both have proven reliable. Install the drawers with at least a 4 mm (0.16 inch) clearance in width inside the slides; otherwise, sanding or adjustment will be necessary.
As kulau already mentioned, precise alignment of the slides and drawer hardware is essential.
If you want to switch to a retrofit system, I recommend ball-bearing drawer slides from Blum, as they are durable and offer high load capacity. However, precise drilling for mounting is required.
Be careful when working with the slides—there is a risk of injury from sharp edges! Use screws of the appropriate length so nothing protrudes through the cabinet walls.
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