ᐅ How do I safely mount Ikea Besta units on walls made of different building materials?
Created on: 9 Jun 2022 10:23
S
simonahauS
simonahau9 Jun 2022 10:23I want to securely mount my Ikea Besta shelving unit to the wall, but I have different types of walls at home: partly concrete, partly drywall (plasterboard), and areas with brickwork. My question is: what is the best way to mount the Besta so that it not only holds securely but also avoids damaging the wall materials? I am especially interested in choosing the right anchors and screws, as well as any tips for preparing and carrying out the installation on these different building materials. Does anyone have experience with mixed wall types like this or a step-by-step guide for mounting heavy furniture on such walls?
I think the issue with different wall materials is often overrated. Sure, concrete is best, but I would argue that most people exaggerate it.
Damage? It depends on whether you use the right anchors. For drywall, there are special hollow wall anchors; otherwise, you’ll just tear everything out. For brick, you should use regular expansion anchors, and for concrete, either hammer-in anchors or toggle bolts. The real challenge is more in the preparation. You should know your tools, drill precisely, and avoid improvising. But the panic about the wall material? In many cases, it’s overrated.
simonahau schrieb:
How do I best install the Besta so that it not only holds securely but also doesn’t damage the wall materials?
Damage? It depends on whether you use the right anchors. For drywall, there are special hollow wall anchors; otherwise, you’ll just tear everything out. For brick, you should use regular expansion anchors, and for concrete, either hammer-in anchors or toggle bolts. The real challenge is more in the preparation. You should know your tools, drill precisely, and avoid improvising. But the panic about the wall material? In many cases, it’s overrated.
L
Leonardteo9 Jun 2022 12:17While I share what rebufar says, I recommend a more detailed approach:
- Concrete walls: Use hammer fixings or specialized metal expansion anchors. Pre-drilling with a rotary hammer is advised to create a clean and correctly sized hole.
- Brick walls: Depending on the type of brick (solid brick or hollow brick), use appropriate anchors – hollow wall anchors are suitable for hollow bricks, while simple plastic anchors will suffice for solid bricks.
- Drywall (plasterboard): Always use specialized hollow wall anchors or metal toggle bolts; never use standard anchors.
It is important to consider the load capacity of the anchors, especially for heavy furniture like the Besta. Additionally, I recommend always securing the furniture to the wall to prevent tipping hazards, even if the provided fasteners from Ikea are usually M8 screws with covers.
Accessories such as a spirit level, a drill with suitable bits, and quality screws greatly assist in safe installation.
- Concrete walls: Use hammer fixings or specialized metal expansion anchors. Pre-drilling with a rotary hammer is advised to create a clean and correctly sized hole.
- Brick walls: Depending on the type of brick (solid brick or hollow brick), use appropriate anchors – hollow wall anchors are suitable for hollow bricks, while simple plastic anchors will suffice for solid bricks.
- Drywall (plasterboard): Always use specialized hollow wall anchors or metal toggle bolts; never use standard anchors.
It is important to consider the load capacity of the anchors, especially for heavy furniture like the Besta. Additionally, I recommend always securing the furniture to the wall to prevent tipping hazards, even if the provided fasteners from Ikea are usually M8 screws with covers.
Accessories such as a spirit level, a drill with suitable bits, and quality screws greatly assist in safe installation.
Interesting point regarding different wall materials:
That is certainly true, but I would like to add that not only the choice of anchors but also the screw-in depth and placement of the anchors play a role. Especially with drywall, it is worth checking whether there is a supporting structure or reinforcement behind the drywall, otherwise even the strongest cavity anchors may not hold well.
With brick walls, I have often encountered the problem that the outer layer consists of solid facing bricks, while the inner core is crumbly, which negatively affects the holding strength. Here, a combined method using chemical anchors or suitable heavy-duty anchors can help.
What are your experiences with chemical anchors in brick? Is that overkill for IKEA furniture?
rebufar schrieb:
The real issue, in my opinion, is more about preparation. You need to know your tools, drill precisely, and avoid improvising.
That is certainly true, but I would like to add that not only the choice of anchors but also the screw-in depth and placement of the anchors play a role. Especially with drywall, it is worth checking whether there is a supporting structure or reinforcement behind the drywall, otherwise even the strongest cavity anchors may not hold well.
With brick walls, I have often encountered the problem that the outer layer consists of solid facing bricks, while the inner core is crumbly, which negatively affects the holding strength. Here, a combined method using chemical anchors or suitable heavy-duty anchors can help.
What are your experiences with chemical anchors in brick? Is that overkill for IKEA furniture?
I completely understand your concerns, simonahau. I felt the same way when I was installing shelves on different walls.
From my own experience, I can say that with the right cavity anchors, very good results can be achieved on drywall, but above all, it is important to ensure precise alignment. A spirit level really helps a lot to avoid any tilting later on.
That’s a great tip. For example, I marked a reinforcement in the form of a wooden batten at one spot and drilled there, which significantly improved stability.
And don’t worry—the wall will only be damaged if you drill incorrectly relative to the anchor size or use unsuitable anchors. With patience, every installation works out—I’m keeping my fingers crossed for you!
From my own experience, I can say that with the right cavity anchors, very good results can be achieved on drywall, but above all, it is important to ensure precise alignment. A spirit level really helps a lot to avoid any tilting later on.
faso31 schrieb:
ob eine Unterkonstruktion oder Verstärkung hinter der Trockenbauwand existiert
That’s a great tip. For example, I marked a reinforcement in the form of a wooden batten at one spot and drilled there, which significantly improved stability.
And don’t worry—the wall will only be damaged if you drill incorrectly relative to the anchor size or use unsuitable anchors. With patience, every installation works out—I’m keeping my fingers crossed for you!
For safety:
- Drywall: hollow wall anchors or toggle bolts
- Concrete: hammer-drive anchors or metal expansion anchors
- Brick: plastic expansion anchors; for hollow bricks, hollow wall anchors
Match the drill hole exactly, drill holes to fit the anchors without making them smaller or larger. Tighten screws firmly into the anchors, but do not overtighten.
- Drywall: hollow wall anchors or toggle bolts
- Concrete: hammer-drive anchors or metal expansion anchors
- Brick: plastic expansion anchors; for hollow bricks, hollow wall anchors
Match the drill hole exactly, drill holes to fit the anchors without making them smaller or larger. Tighten screws firmly into the anchors, but do not overtighten.
Similar topics