ᐅ How can I convert IKEA BESTA into a modern lowboard for my living room?

Hello everyone, I am planning to modify the IKEA Besta system into a modern lowboard for my living room. Since I am not satisfied with the standard design, I want to make the lowboard shallower, wider, and more contemporary, ideally combining open compartments with closed elements for a neat appearance. My goal is a lowboard that is both functional for hi-fi and media devices and visually appealing for a modern living space. My questions are:
- Which BESTA components are best suited for such a shallow build?
- How can stability be ensured for wider constructions?
- Are there any recommended tips for DIY customization, such as lighting or surface finishes?
- What tools or materials should I definitely have on hand to avoid missing anything?
I look forward to constructive suggestions and tested solutions to try out!

For shallow lowboards, Besta frames with a reduced depth, for example 40cm (16 inches), are suitable. You can achieve stability by using metal brackets inside the corners. If you want open compartments, use glass shelves, which are sturdy and have a modern look. For the surface, sanding plus a matte lacquer finish is worthwhile. Tools: cordless drill, spirit level, and fine sandpaper.

FAVALERIE9 schrieb:
If you want open shelves, use glass shelves—they are sturdy and modern.

Glass shelves really make a style statement! They make the TV stand look lighter and less bulky. I also installed LEDs under the shelves—it adds a super modern touch and creates a relaxing atmosphere. And don’t worry, you can install the lighting with dimmers, perfect for the living room ambiance. 😎

One more idea: instead of standard handles, use handle strips—they look sleek and are very trendy.

larsenpra schrieb:
How can stability be ensured for wider constructions?

This is often the issue that causes problems. IKEA modules are modular and designed for standard sizes; with larger, wider units, the risk of sagging or instability increases. That’s why I recommend not relying solely on brackets but adding additional braces or crossbars made of sturdy material.

My advice: also check how the load is distributed and consider securing the lowboard to the wall, which enhances safety. It’s also worth considering whether to use the original legs or flat plinths, as the latter tends to be more stable.

From a technical perspective, I recommend the following approach:

- Use Besta frames with a depth of 40 cm (16 inches) to achieve a slim appearance.
- Apply steel reinforcement brackets at the joints to ensure lateral stability for wider lowboards.
- For open modules, toughened glass shelves are suitable, as they can withstand high loads and create a modern look.
- The surface can be protected against scratches and wear by fine sanding and finishing with a matte acrylic lacquer.
- Indirect LED lighting can be integrated into the base cavity using narrow aluminum profiles to provide subtle ambient lighting.

Tool recommendations: cordless drill with torque adjustment, router for rounding edges, spirit level for precise alignment.

kasan schrieb:
It’s also questionable whether you should use the original legs or prefer flat bases, which are more stable.

That’s interesting, thanks. I’m leaning more towards flat bases because I want the lowboard to sit close to the floor. But how exactly do I attach them if I remove the IKEA legs? Do I need special plates or adapters for that?

Also, I’m curious if anyone has experience with closed back panels. I’m considering leaving part of the back open for cable management but still want it to be sturdy enough for the entire structure.

I’d appreciate any tips on choosing the right back panels and mounting options!