ᐅ How can I modify the Ikea Besta modular system for different uses?

Hello everyone,

I am currently exploring ways to modify an Ikea Besta modular system to make it flexible for different uses. Specifically, I want to find out how to expand, adapt, or rebuild the system so that, for example, a simple TV stand can be transformed into a combined storage solution for office supplies or even a display cabinet with lighting. I am particularly interested in:

- Which typical modules are suitable for altering the basic structure?
- Are there practical ideas for retrofitting electrical components like LED lighting or integrated power outlets?
- How does stability hold up if you add elements like glass doors or other heavy parts?
- And of course: How can the whole setup be made as reversible as possible, so it can be repurposed later?

I would greatly appreciate it if anyone could share their experiences or creative solutions here. Thanks in advance!

For flexible use, combining different Besta cabinet sizes is recommended. You can easily retrofit LED strips using 12V power supplies, using hook-and-loop or magnetic fasteners. Glass or other doors are sturdy when properly installed; it’s best to use threaded inserts. Reversibility can be achieved with plug connections and by avoiding excessive gluing.

Hello ALFONS_GO,

your question is very practical and requires a good understanding of the modular principles of the Ikea Besta system.

First, about the basic structure: The Besta system offers standardized cabinet sizes (e.g., 60x60 cm (24x24 inches) or 120x40 cm (47x16 inches)) that you can combine using side panels and adjustable shelves. For versatile use, I recommend arranging the interior with adjustable shelves and using divider panels for separation. This also improves stability, especially if you use glass doors. An important technical note: when installing glass, additional reinforcements are recommended, particularly at the top of the cabinets or if the door weight is higher. Stability is further enhanced by using metal connectors at the edges – this is also important if you want to make later modifications without compromising stability.

Regarding electrical retrofits: LED lighting can be easily integrated using 12-volt strips. Flexible aluminum LED profiles, which can be mounted inside along the cabinet edges, are recommended. Make sure to plan cable channels or conduits in advance to avoid cable clutter and achieve a clean installation. A tip: use plug connectors with spring contacts so the modules can be easily disconnected and reassembled later.

For reversibility: avoid permanent gluing or use screws that can be removed. Magnetic holders for doors or shelves support flexible use. One option I often use is a modular frame with T-slot profiles (even if these are not original Ikea parts) to clamp or move variable elements inside the cabinet.

How large are your cabinets, or what are your space requirements? That way, I can provide you with more specific recommendations.

Palenar schrieb:
How large are your cabinet units, or what are your space requirements?

Thank you for the detailed and very helpful response!

Currently, I have a standard Besta set with cabinet units measuring 120 x 40 cm (depth 40 cm / 16 inches, height varies depending on configuration). The idea is to create a combination about 180 cm (70 inches) wide. It’s important for me to design the system so that individual modules can be easily moved around. The use will be partly as a media corner (TV and gaming consoles) and partly as a small workspace (folders, cable management). I want to install lighting both for the display case and the workspace, preferably dimmable LEDs that I can control or switch separately.

I’m also particularly interested in whether it’s practical to integrate cable channels with power outlets inside the cabinets without compromising the furniture’s usability or stability, or having to cut large holes in the material. Your comments on the stability of glass panels reassure me, as I had some concerns.

Do you have any recommendations on how to best handle electrical connections for the LEDs during installation, especially if the furniture might be frequently reconfigured?

Hello ALFONS_GO,

I would like to add a few practical tips to what Palenar and you have already considered:

- Cable ducts inside the cabinet are possible, but you should use shallow routing or drilling to avoid compromising stability. Narrow recesses in the base or on the back panels are ideal places to route cables neatly.
- For power outlets, it’s best to use slim multi-outlet strips with flat plugs that can be screwed in with minimal space—larger cutouts are not necessary.
- You can achieve dimmable LED lighting using smart LED controllers housed in a small separate module—often a small compartment with ventilation is sufficient for this.
- To avoid cutting cables during installation or modifications, using modular connectors and cable extensions is recommended. Flat, flexible cables work best and can be secured with cable ties or clips.

If you want to stay flexible, consider using pegboard or grid-style back panels. This helps with organization and makes installation easier.

If you like, I can also send you some detailed plans I have used in similar projects.

klo61 schrieb:
If you want to stay flexible, consider using back panels made of perforated panels or grid variants.

I think that’s an excellent idea, especially for cable management and modular expansion.

I’m familiar with standard Besta back panel cardboard, but not in perforated panel form – is that a separate product you’d recommend, or more of a DIY solution?

Do you think such back panels are structurally comparable to the original? Since I’m not planning to modify the entire frame, I don’t want to risk any instability.

Regarding power outlets and switchable lighting: Are there any experiences with wireless switches or even app-controlled components that integrate well into such furniture without visible control cables?