ᐅ KALLAX too tall to use as a bedside table – any ideas?

pauPierce schrieb:
What is your bed and mattress setup? Do you have a specific target height in mind?

To repeat: My goal is about 55-60 cm (22-24 inches) total height — that is, from the floor to the top surface. I believe that is the most ergonomic height for me.

flo-Theres schrieb:
If cutting down the Kallax is being considered, the structure of the base should definitely be checked first

That worries me a bit. Would it be better, instead of cutting, to reduce the height by building a lower plinth or base?

vinpau schrieb:
I recently also modified a Kallax ... attaching a thin wooden board with felt pads

Interesting, but I’m afraid the difference wouldn’t be enough, since I’d need to reduce by almost 20 cm (8 inches).

Hello renpin,

I completely understand your dilemma and have worked on similar projects with Ikea Kallax units. Here is a structured approach to a solution:

1. Measuring: First, measure the distance from the bottom edge of the Kallax to the top shelf surface.

2. Shortening: It is possible to saw off the Kallax legs, but the bottom panel should not be completely removed as it provides structural support. It is better to remove about 15 cm (6 inches) and then use sturdy feet to achieve the desired final height.

3. Plinth/base: A custom-made plinth from plywood or MDF can replace the load-bearing bottom panel and allow for a lower installation. Advantage: storage space is preserved, and stability may even improve.

4. Alternative feet: Feet with integrated height adjusters are rare, but caster wheels with brakes could also be an option. However, this often results in a higher overall unit height.

5. Additional details: Check if you also need to adjust the back panel, for example by shortening it so that it does not protrude too far.

Summary: If you don’t have specialized tools, I recommend a plinth with a stable base plate. When sawing, work very precisely to ensure a clean finish.

If needed, I can also provide a sketch or material recommendations.

SauDietmar schrieb:
A custom-made base frame made of plywood or MDF can replace the load-bearing slab and at the same time allow for a lower installation height.

That sounds very interesting, especially since preserving storage space is important to me. I could imagine building the base frame in a way that even allows for integrating additional small drawers.

If you have a sketch or material recommendations, I would be very grateful. What thickness would you suggest for MDF or plywood to ensure it remains stable and doesn’t sag?

renpin schrieb:
If you have a sketch or material suggestions, I would be very grateful.

I would recommend MDF at least 18 mm (0.7 inches) thick or plywood 15-18 mm (0.6-0.7 inches) thick. Especially plywood is lighter but also a bit more expensive. For the base, you should definitely build a load-bearing wooden panel that supports both the main structure and serves as the floor of the assembly.

If you want to proceed, here’s a rough outline:

- Unscrew the old feet and shorten the bottom edge to the desired height (preferably not too much, max. 10-15 cm (4-6 inches)).
- Build a precisely fitting base to match the cutout.
- Reinforce the base from the inside with brackets.
- Screw the Kallax securely on top.

Important: Make sure the angles are exact, otherwise it will wobble later. If you are unsure about cutting, many hardware stores offer free or low-cost cutting services.

One more question: Do you want to fix the Kallax firmly to the bed, or should it remain movable?

pauPierce schrieb:
One more question: Do you want to fix the Kallax firmly to the bed, or should it remain movable?

The Kallax should preferably remain movable. I might want to rearrange it if I change the room layout. However, it shouldn’t slide around too easily.

Thanks for the tip about cutting it at the hardware store. The idea of shortening the old legs and then making a base sounds good – it seems like a workable compromise.

A straightforward note on stability:

The individual Kallax modules are designed based on the bottom panels. If the lower panel is reduced or removed, lateral twisting may increase, which can reduce stability.

If you shorten it, make sure the shortened surface is fully supported, preferably on a closed plinth or substructure. Open constructions or only point supports may increase the risk of twisting.

For a plinth construction, a closed base panel made of plywood is recommended to support the entire carcass and distribute loads evenly. The back panel should also not be shortened, as it significantly improves the stability of the carcass.