ᐅ How can I expand Ikea PAX wardrobes using materials from a home improvement store?
Created on: 14 Apr 2020 09:37
L
LispauHello everyone,
I have a specific question that came up while expanding my Ikea PAX wardrobe: How can I extend Ikea PAX wardrobes using materials from a hardware store?
I own a basic PAX unit but want to customize and expand it more flexibly—preferably with components or accessories that I can find at a hardware store, instead of relying solely on Ikea-specific solutions. I am especially interested in adding extra shelves, side panels, or connecting fittings to make my PAX wardrobe more spacious and stable.
I am also curious if there are standard dimensions and material properties I should watch for to ensure everything remains compatible. Are there particular connectors or small parts that work particularly well? And what should I keep in mind when assembling such extensions myself?
Looking forward to your experiences and tips, especially if you have already combined hardware store products with Ikea PAX—please include a brief explanation of which items you used and any challenges you encountered!
Best regards,
Lispau
I have a specific question that came up while expanding my Ikea PAX wardrobe: How can I extend Ikea PAX wardrobes using materials from a hardware store?
I own a basic PAX unit but want to customize and expand it more flexibly—preferably with components or accessories that I can find at a hardware store, instead of relying solely on Ikea-specific solutions. I am especially interested in adding extra shelves, side panels, or connecting fittings to make my PAX wardrobe more spacious and stable.
I am also curious if there are standard dimensions and material properties I should watch for to ensure everything remains compatible. Are there particular connectors or small parts that work particularly well? And what should I keep in mind when assembling such extensions myself?
Looking forward to your experiences and tips, especially if you have already combined hardware store products with Ikea PAX—please include a brief explanation of which items you used and any challenges you encountered!
Best regards,
Lispau
Hello Lispau,
I understand that you want to expand your PAX system flexibly and individually without relying solely on IKEA accessories. Here is a structured overview of how this can work well with materials from a hardware store:
- Dimensions to consider: Most PAX components have a depth of 58 cm (23 inches) and a width of 50 or 75 cm (20 or 30 inches). When using hardware store shelves or side panels, make sure the depth is at least 55-58 cm (22-23 inches) so the shelves fit properly.
- Material choice: PAX shelves are usually made of coated particleboard or MDF with a thickness of 16 mm (5/8 inch). Wood panels or cut-to-size pieces from the hardware store should have a similar thickness to ensure stability and compatibility.
- Fastening elements: Use dowels, brackets, or special connectors (for example, furniture connectors or Minifix systems) to attach shelves or side panels. You can also use threaded inserts to create a secure connection.
- Finishing: If you work precisely, sealing the edges with water-based or plastic edge banding will prevent swelling or splintering.
- Common mistakes: Avoid using panels that are too thin, as they tend to bend under load. Also, large tolerances in dimensions can result in poor fit.
If you want, I can provide a list of specific products from the hardware store that I personally use for such projects.
Good luck with your project!
I understand that you want to expand your PAX system flexibly and individually without relying solely on IKEA accessories. Here is a structured overview of how this can work well with materials from a hardware store:
- Dimensions to consider: Most PAX components have a depth of 58 cm (23 inches) and a width of 50 or 75 cm (20 or 30 inches). When using hardware store shelves or side panels, make sure the depth is at least 55-58 cm (22-23 inches) so the shelves fit properly.
- Material choice: PAX shelves are usually made of coated particleboard or MDF with a thickness of 16 mm (5/8 inch). Wood panels or cut-to-size pieces from the hardware store should have a similar thickness to ensure stability and compatibility.
- Fastening elements: Use dowels, brackets, or special connectors (for example, furniture connectors or Minifix systems) to attach shelves or side panels. You can also use threaded inserts to create a secure connection.
- Finishing: If you work precisely, sealing the edges with water-based or plastic edge banding will prevent swelling or splintering.
- Common mistakes: Avoid using panels that are too thin, as they tend to bend under load. Also, large tolerances in dimensions can result in poor fit.
If you want, I can provide a list of specific products from the hardware store that I personally use for such projects.
Good luck with your project!
[quote=rubybi, post: i1r2o8, member: XXX]- Take measurements: Most PAX units have a depth of 58 cm (23 inches) and a width of 50 or 75 cm (20 or 30 inches).[ /quote]
This is exactly the point where you should measure and plan very carefully. Some time ago, I expanded my PAX wardrobe using components from a hardware store and recommend the following approach:
First, I suggest measuring the exact internal dimensions of your existing PAX carcasses, as actual measurements can sometimes differ slightly from standard listed dimensions. For the expansion, you will need:
- A sturdy frame, preferably made of plywood or coated wood with a thickness of about 18 mm (0.7 inches) from the hardware store.
- Custom-made shelves, ideally with a durable edge banding to prevent moisture absorption.
- Connector screws or brackets to hold everything securely together. You can use furniture connectors (such as Minifix systems), which are often available at hardware stores along with 5 mm (0.2 inches) dowels.
For the side panels, coated MDF boards are a good option and can be cut to size. These work well with Ikea materials and usually come with a smooth surface from the factory. Many times, these panels are sufficiently stable and visually acceptable.
[quote=rubybi, post: i1r2o8, member: XXX]- Connectors: For attaching shelves or side panels, use dowels, brackets, or special fixing fittings (for example, furniture connectors or Minifix systems).[ /quote]
This is essential to make the extension not only stable but also reversible—in case you want to make changes later.
It is also worth securing the heavily loaded components further with wood glue, especially for shelves that will carry a lot of weight.
Finally: You might be able to reuse the doors and hinges from the PAX system if the new unit matches in height and depth, or you can look for universal hinges available at hardware stores.
If you like, I can also provide you with a step-by-step guide including precise measurements and a materials list to support your project further.
This is exactly the point where you should measure and plan very carefully. Some time ago, I expanded my PAX wardrobe using components from a hardware store and recommend the following approach:
First, I suggest measuring the exact internal dimensions of your existing PAX carcasses, as actual measurements can sometimes differ slightly from standard listed dimensions. For the expansion, you will need:
- A sturdy frame, preferably made of plywood or coated wood with a thickness of about 18 mm (0.7 inches) from the hardware store.
- Custom-made shelves, ideally with a durable edge banding to prevent moisture absorption.
- Connector screws or brackets to hold everything securely together. You can use furniture connectors (such as Minifix systems), which are often available at hardware stores along with 5 mm (0.2 inches) dowels.
For the side panels, coated MDF boards are a good option and can be cut to size. These work well with Ikea materials and usually come with a smooth surface from the factory. Many times, these panels are sufficiently stable and visually acceptable.
[quote=rubybi, post: i1r2o8, member: XXX]- Connectors: For attaching shelves or side panels, use dowels, brackets, or special fixing fittings (for example, furniture connectors or Minifix systems).[ /quote]
This is essential to make the extension not only stable but also reversible—in case you want to make changes later.
It is also worth securing the heavily loaded components further with wood glue, especially for shelves that will carry a lot of weight.
Finally: You might be able to reuse the doors and hinges from the PAX system if the new unit matches in height and depth, or you can look for universal hinges available at hardware stores.
If you like, I can also provide you with a step-by-step guide including precise measurements and a materials list to support your project further.
P
PECLARISSA16 Apr 2020 10:14Laukau5 schrieb:
For the side panels, you can, for example, have coated MDF boards cut to size, which are very compatible with Ikea materials and come quite smooth straight from the factory.I can only agree with that – coated MDF is practically the secret tip if you want to extend PAX sensibly without it looking like a haphazard DIY solution made from hardware store products 😉
Regarding your question on how to combine hardware store products well with Ikea PAX: I would follow rubybi’s advice to pay special attention to the thickness of the panels. 16 mm (5/8 inch) is the magic number. Less usually means instability, and more can cause problems with your PAX system.
If you want to stay flexible, I would work with variable measurements, allowing some tolerance instead of building too tight. That way, everything will fit even if Ikea adjusts dimensions slightly – as you know, that can happen with mass-produced items.
One more bonus tip: Many hardware stores offer cutting services. With some patience and precision, you can have your parts cut almost perfectly to size. This saves a lot of hassle during assembly.
Have fun with your project and remember: it’s better to measure twice than to cut once!
Laukau5 schrieb:
If you like, I can also write you a step-by-step guide with exact measurements and material listsThat’s a great idea, I’ll gladly add some common items that can be found in almost any hardware store:
1. Shelves: Coated chipboard or MDF with a thickness of 16 mm (0.63 inches), 58 cm (23 inches) deep, cut to size.
2. Side panels: MDF boards, 16–18 mm (0.63–0.71 inches) thick, preferably waterproof or melamine-coated.
3. Connectors: Minifix fasteners (cam connectors), 5 mm (0.2 inches) wooden dowels, and corner brackets.
4. Edge banding: PVC edge banding for wood – important to protect the cut edges.
Work in this order:
- Measuring
- Cutting at the hardware store or on your workbench (using a circular saw)
- Sealing the edges
- Drilling connector holes (preferably with a drilling template)
- Assembling with Minifix fasteners and dowels
PECLARISSA schrieb:
One bonus tip: Many hardware stores offer cutting services, and with some patience and accuracy, you can have your parts cut almost perfectly to size.Exactly, this makes the whole process much easier and often produces better results than working with DIY tools, even if you have some experience.
And if anyone has problems with sturdy connections, they should definitely make sure that all fasteners are tight – loose connectors can otherwise become annoying weak points.
I hope this helps you, Lispau!
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