Hello everyone!
For a wall box, power, lighting, and outdoor network connections, I need to run several cables through the basement wall. I am still in the planning phase.
Based on my research, the most practical method seems to be using a sealing ring.
The basement wall is made of hollow concrete blocks. Therefore, it makes sense to install a sleeve pipe.
The sealing ring is DN100. The sleeve pipes also have a certain thickness. For example, Hauff has a DN100 sleeve with an outer diameter of 160mm (6.3 inches). The wall thickness is about 50cm (20 inches).
Thanks in advance!
Best regards, Christoph
For a wall box, power, lighting, and outdoor network connections, I need to run several cables through the basement wall. I am still in the planning phase.
Based on my research, the most practical method seems to be using a sealing ring.
The basement wall is made of hollow concrete blocks. Therefore, it makes sense to install a sleeve pipe.
The sealing ring is DN100. The sleeve pipes also have a certain thickness. For example, Hauff has a DN100 sleeve with an outer diameter of 160mm (6.3 inches). The wall thickness is about 50cm (20 inches).
- Do I need to create a slope to the outside? Maybe 1-2%?
- With a sleeve outer diameter of 160mm (6.3 inches), I will probably need a 200mm (8 inches) hole. Is that roughly correct?
- What should I use to seal the gap? Swelling mortar?
- How do I get the swelling mortar into the wall? There are filling devices available, but those don’t make sense for just 1-2 holes. What else can I do? DIY? Or are there systems that include a filling device?
- I would like to run the network cables inside conduit pipes. For that, I probably need a “cable-compatible” conduit. Do you have any recommendations or advice?
Thanks in advance!
Best regards, Christoph
For the ring space seal, I would use the Hauff 2700103000 HRD100 SG 8x4-16.5. It should fit the 5x6mm² (5x0.01 inch²) cable for the heat pump.
For the sleeve pipe, a Hauff ZVR100/550 fc (115mm (4.5 inches) outer diameter) — this reduces the drilling diameter to 130–150mm (5–6 inches).
Which "cable-compatible" pipe works? I can’t find any information on that.
Swelling grout: Quick-Mix swelling mortar.
For the sleeve pipe, a Hauff ZVR100/550 fc (115mm (4.5 inches) outer diameter) — this reduces the drilling diameter to 130–150mm (5–6 inches).
Which "cable-compatible" pipe works? I can’t find any information on that.
Swelling grout: Quick-Mix swelling mortar.
Hi,
What you’re describing sounds like quite a bit of work – but also like a solution that will pay off in the long run if done correctly. If you focus on the ring space sealing, you’re on the right track to meet the requirements. But let’s get into the details:
To your first question: If the sleeve pipe has an outer diameter of 160 mm (6.3 inches), you’ll need a hole that provides enough space for the pipe plus the surrounding material. Let’s say you should allow a buffer of at least 10–15 mm (0.4–0.6 inches) for the pipe itself and the later sealing fill. So your core drilling should be at least 180 mm (7 inches), preferably a bit more. The sealing fill also needs some room. With a wall thickness of 50 cm (20 inches), you can be generous with the drilling depth in case the hole is a bit uneven.
The second question is even more interesting: You’re absolutely right, the ring seal is applied on the outside, but inside the pipe you should use a stable cable conduit—at least for power and network cables. For the cables, you can either pull a second, smaller pipe inside the larger sleeve pipe or fix the cables directly on special cable holders in the wall—depending on how much space and flexibility you want. The inner sealing is actually not too complicated, as there are special sealing mortars or sealing tapes that also work well around cables.
Regarding the third question: Of course, running network cables through empty conduits is very sensible. Here I would recommend using what’s called “cable-compatible” conduit, which offers enough space and gives you some flexibility if you need to pull cables later on. The sealing of empty conduits is usually done with a special rubber seal that effectively closes the space around the cables without impairing their function. Important: When installing network cables, make sure the conduit is not only sealed but also sufficiently ventilated—cables can heat up due to thermal load.
If you do this properly, you won’t have problems later on. But: aerated concrete blocks are not the easiest material to drill into. Even with a wall thickness of 50 cm (20 inches), the concrete isn’t always equally dense or stable—be careful that your drill doesn’t get stuck or kick back.
What you’re describing sounds like quite a bit of work – but also like a solution that will pay off in the long run if done correctly. If you focus on the ring space sealing, you’re on the right track to meet the requirements. But let’s get into the details:
To your first question: If the sleeve pipe has an outer diameter of 160 mm (6.3 inches), you’ll need a hole that provides enough space for the pipe plus the surrounding material. Let’s say you should allow a buffer of at least 10–15 mm (0.4–0.6 inches) for the pipe itself and the later sealing fill. So your core drilling should be at least 180 mm (7 inches), preferably a bit more. The sealing fill also needs some room. With a wall thickness of 50 cm (20 inches), you can be generous with the drilling depth in case the hole is a bit uneven.
The second question is even more interesting: You’re absolutely right, the ring seal is applied on the outside, but inside the pipe you should use a stable cable conduit—at least for power and network cables. For the cables, you can either pull a second, smaller pipe inside the larger sleeve pipe or fix the cables directly on special cable holders in the wall—depending on how much space and flexibility you want. The inner sealing is actually not too complicated, as there are special sealing mortars or sealing tapes that also work well around cables.
Regarding the third question: Of course, running network cables through empty conduits is very sensible. Here I would recommend using what’s called “cable-compatible” conduit, which offers enough space and gives you some flexibility if you need to pull cables later on. The sealing of empty conduits is usually done with a special rubber seal that effectively closes the space around the cables without impairing their function. Important: When installing network cables, make sure the conduit is not only sealed but also sufficiently ventilated—cables can heat up due to thermal load.
If you do this properly, you won’t have problems later on. But: aerated concrete blocks are not the easiest material to drill into. Even with a wall thickness of 50 cm (20 inches), the concrete isn’t always equally dense or stable—be careful that your drill doesn’t get stuck or kick back.
Great! Thanks for the feedback!
I now only have an outer diameter of 115mm (4.5 inches). (See post #2 https://www.hausbau-forum.de/posts/y7z2v3/)
Is my assumption correct?
I now only have an outer diameter of 115mm (4.5 inches). (See post #2 https://www.hausbau-forum.de/posts/y7z2v3/)
berton schrieb:
Using a Hauff ZVR100/550 fc liner pipe (115mm outer diameter) --> This reduces the borehole size to 130–150mm (5–6 inches)
Is my assumption correct?
berton schrieb:
Do I need a slope outward? 1-2%?
berton schrieb:
Which "cable-compatible" pipe works? Can’t find anything about that
N
nordanney17 Apr 2026 18:01berton schrieb:
Top! Thanks for the feedback! Please critically evaluate the answers. They come from an AI (which isn’t a problem, but you shouldn’t accept them uncritically word for word).
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