ᐅ How do you install Ikea Pax wardrobes in bathrooms?

Created on: 3 Jun 2016 08:13
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pinsi
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pinsi
3 Jun 2016 08:13
Hello everyone, I am planning to install an Ikea Pax wardrobe in my bathroom. However, I am facing some specific challenges because the bathroom has limited space and is affected by moisture as well as uneven walls. My main question is: What tips and techniques should be considered when assembling an Ikea Pax wardrobe in a bathroom, especially regarding moisture protection, mounting on tiled walls, and possible stability issues due to the humid environment? Are there any practical experiences or modifications to the assembly process that have proven effective specifically for bathrooms? I would appreciate a detailed response with possible additional solutions.
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ANFIKE
3 Jun 2016 08:57
The most important point is to avoid placing the cabinet directly on the floor to prevent moisture damage. Maintain a gap and install baseboards or feet. When attaching to tiles, I recommend using special anchors for tiles to avoid damaging them.
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harold
3 Jun 2016 09:23
For anyone planning to install a Pax wardrobe in the bathroom, here is a step-by-step guide:

- First, always check the walls for evenness, as uneven tiles can make installation difficult. If necessary, use washers or spacer elements.
- Moisture is a key factor. Since Pax wardrobe components are made of particleboard, it is important to avoid direct floor attachment; instead, use rubber mats or adjustable feet.
- For mounting on tiled walls, cavity or tile anchors are suitable. Never drill into tiles without using special anchors to prevent cracking.
- During assembly, you can also apply water-repellent sealants to edge banding or exposed cut edges.
- Ensure good ventilation in the bathroom to minimize mold growth.

In summary: the most important aspects are a secure, yet removable, wall mounting combined with protection against moisture at the base and on cut edges.
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George
3 Jun 2016 09:45
Pre-drill tiles using appropriate tile anchors or cavity anchors, and level the cabinet with a spirit level. Do not use floor sealing; position the cabinet on the air side and, if necessary, seal with silicone at critical points.
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fidasi
3 Jun 2016 11:02
harold schrieb:
Moisture is a key issue. Pax cabinet parts are made of particle board, so it’s important to avoid direct floor contact; it’s better to use rubber mats or adjustable feet.

I fully agree with this. Based on my experience, I would add that applying a thin layer of transparent, water-repellent varnish to all cut edges of the particle board makes a big difference. Since every cut edge of the Pax components presents a vulnerability to moisture, this measure helps prevent swelling and potential warping of the doors later on.

Furthermore, I recommend checking the wall’s moisture levels before installation. If excessive moisture is detected, sealing or drying should be done first.

Regarding wall mounting, special anchors for tiles have proven effective, as already mentioned here. Alternatively, mounting rails can be installed, allowing the cabinet modules to be simply hung on them. This greatly simplifies any future modifications.

One last tip: Alignment is especially important in bathrooms, as the floor is often uneven. Use adjustable feet and regularly check vertical and horizontal levels during installation.
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pinsi
3 Jun 2016 12:16
Thank you for the initial feedback. I would like to clarify a few points: The bathroom mostly has smooth, large-format tiles, and the walls are not perfectly straight—they slightly slope toward the shower.
My idea was to use the back panel of the Pax wardrobe as the main attachment point and position the structure as close to the wall as possible to minimize space loss.
One potential challenge is that the floor is not perfectly level, and I’m concerned that the doors might not close properly due to warping. For this reason, I am reconsidering the suggestion of using support feet and edge protectors.
Has anyone had experience with whether special moisture-resistant materials or alternatives for the back panel are advisable, or if the standard Ikea backing board can be adequately treated?