ᐅ Is it possible to install a utility room in a garage?

All right, thank you very much!
Both options have their appeal for me. Ideally, the staircase should be finished all the way up, with no floor hatch. We might still find good use for the room, but for now it’s not a priority. I believe the decision will also depend somewhat on the cost. We actually need the outdoor space, whatever it will look like, for bikes and other things that tend to accumulate. Because of its size, I can well imagine storing these items in the utility room.

My main concern was whether this is allowed and what “risks” might be associated with it.

Hello f-pNo,

f-pNo schrieb:

In total, don’t these measures (assuming the structural engineer might still determine that the ceiling needs reinforcement) end up costing more than insulating an external utility room and the pipes?

- Additional costs for the structural engineer (possibly extra measures)

Negligible, the equipment is not that heavy after all. I just prefer having the structural engineer review it.

f-pNo schrieb:

- Additional window costs

About €1,000.00 per double casement window including installation; alternatively, connect the room to the ventilation system. Or install windows in the gable walls; those don’t require roller shutters, so the original poster could manage with around €600/700.00. It depends on what is planned for the remaining space.

f-pNo schrieb:

- Additional bathtub costs

Maybe around €200/250.00

f-pNo schrieb:

- Additional staircase costs compared to a standard retractable attic ladder

The original poster currently has a landing staircase planned; I’m sure once they know the costs, they will reconsider. For example, a quarter-turn staircase leading to the attic would likely cost an additional around €3,000 to €3,500, including an interior door and drywall work. The advantage of this option is that the existing space can gradually be converted into living space.

I always recommend, if there is enough usable attic space available, to include all necessary preliminary work in the contract. The homeowner can do the final finishing later themselves; it’s not rocket science.

f-pNo schrieb:

- Possibly additional heating costs due to larger remodeled/insulated space

There won’t be any, unless the room is finished later on. The step up between equipment sizes is manageable.

f-pNo schrieb:

Of course, all sensible if you plan to finish the attic anyway (then it’s just the additional cost for the bathtub).

Agreed.

f-pNo schrieb:

than insulating an external utility room and the pipes?

Assuming the room measures 4.00 x 2.5 meters (13 x 8 feet), building this room costs about €8,000 in Thuringia; insulating it adds another €2,500. Now you can clearly see which option provides the most benefit and is economically favorable in the end.

f-pNo schrieb:

Off topic: 600th post

You are well suited to invest a lot of private time as a moderator in the financing section.

Regards, Bauexperte

Bauexperte schrieb:


Assuming the room measures 4.00 x 2.5 m (13.1 x 8.2 ft), the construction cost for this room is approximately 8,000 euros in Thuringia; with insulation, an additional 2,500 euros. Now you can clearly see which option offers the most benefit and is economically viable overall.

Interesting. This shows how easily a layperson can misjudge costs here. My estimate would have been between 10,000 and 15,000.

Bauexperte schrieb:


You are perfectly suited to invest a lot of personal time as a moderator in the financing section.

Thanks for the compliment. That would only make my time management worse. Interestingly, my last roughly 100 posts were all outside the financing section because all the discussions there discouraged me from writing. (So now I stir things up in other forum sections with "unqualified comments" .)

Bauexperte schrieb:

• You need to provide ventilation – this can be done through double casement windows

Why?

lastdrop schrieb:
Why?

To answer in a simple, non-expert way: moisture rises upward. When the attic is converted, a vapor barrier is installed on the roof rafters. This means that moist air can no longer escape, which creates a risk of mold. Proper ventilation solves this issue.

Windows that can be opened regularly should be sufficient—if they are actually opened regularly.

That is generally true, of course. However, as far as I know, a water heater installed in the attic (within the insulated area) does not require ventilation. At least, I haven’t encountered that...