ᐅ Is it possible to install a utility room in a garage?

bortel schrieb:

What does it mean in practice if it is located outside the thermal envelope exactly?

It costs you money; both as a one-time and recurring expense; installing the heat generator within the thermal envelope saves more than 10 kWh/(m2 · a) (10 kWh per square meter per year). There is, among other sources, a clearly written technical article by IHKS on this topic. An excerpt states:

In addition to insulating the building envelope, especially the insulation of the building services systems contributes to realizing the energy-saving potential in buildings. Unfortunately, this is often neglected because it is wrongly assumed that a well-insulated building envelope alone is sufficient to use energy efficiently and save it. For the energy efficiency of a heating system and thus the entire building, besides heat generation, heat distribution is also critical. Large energy losses occur due to uninsulated or poorly insulated pipes and fittings. Studies have shown that the annual heat loss caused by uninsulated or insufficiently insulated distribution pipes and fittings in the basement area (outside the thermal building envelope) can amount to up to a quarter of the annual heating energy consumption of a residential building.

Now imagine if your heat generator were located in an uninsulated room; we assume, however, that the exposed pipes are properly insulated as intended. What happens if there is frost outside or even just temperatures around 5°C (41°F), which is not uncommon?

bortel schrieb:

The heating system is not in the garage then, right, or how should I understand "adjacent garage"? It would be a separate room after all.

I answered f-pNo’s question. A separate room outside the required setback areas, intended to house the heat generator, should always be insulated according to the rest of the building envelope.

**Source: IHKS – "Pipe Insulation – An Important Factor in Reducing Energy Consumption" by Dipl.-Ing. Michaela Störkmann

Regards, Bauexperte

So that means: if we do it this way, the room needs to be insulated, and the pipes as well? If this is done properly (which will increase the overall house costs), are there any other reasons that speak against this solution for you?
Would it be possible instead to place the entire room in the attic? The sleeping area would be above the living area, with another floor above that. Since we have to build a pitched roof anyway, could the technical installations possibly be concentrated there?

bortel schrieb:

Would it be an option to place the entire room in the attic? The sleeping area would be above the living space, and above that would be another floor. Since we need to install a pitched roof anyway, could the technical equipment perhaps also be centralized there?

As a layperson, I would like to raise two points:
1. Often, the insulation of the upper floor is applied over the ceiling rather than directly on the rafters. If your building is constructed this way, you would have the same effect as installing the heating unit in an uninsulated exterior space. Alternatively, you could install the insulation directly on the roof (rafters). However, this would enlarge the heated area (the pitched roof), which would likely lead to higher heating costs. In my opinion, direct insulation on the roof makes sense if you plan to convert the attic into living space now or in the future.
2. Without knowledge of the weight of the heating unit, etc., it may be necessary to have the structural load-bearing capacity of the attic checked if you install the heating unit there (possibly requiring stronger construction). Many houses with pitched roofs have ceilings made of joists, rafters, and drywall (please correct me if I am wrong). Concrete ceilings are more common in houses with flat roofs.

f-pNo schrieb:
From my point of view, it makes sense to insulate directly at the roof if you plan to convert the attic into living space now or later.

Hello,

in this case, it is essential to ensure that the fully insulated attic is ventilated regularly (ideally twice a day).

Otherwise, you might quickly face serious mold issues.

Regards,

Dirk

bortel schrieb:

So this means: If we proceed this way, the room must be insulated as well as the pipes?

Yes. We do not build any other way; if the client wants a different approach, we decline the construction contract.

bortel schrieb:

Would it be possible to place the entire room in the attic instead? The sleeping area would be above the living area, and there would still be another story above that. Since we have to build a pitched roof anyway, we might be able to bundle the equipment there?

That is a better idea. You have the attic anyway; according to the Energy Saving Regulation, insulation is required above the top floor ceiling, so the cost of insulation is included in every quote. Insulating the rafters is somewhat more expensive due to the larger surface area compared to insulating on the floor; drywall cladding can be done efficiently in DIY.

The consequences of this:

• The structural engineer must verify if the wooden beam ceiling is strong enough
• You need to ensure ventilation – this can be done via double casement windows
• Precautions must be taken in case the domestic hot water tank leaks. This means a drip pan must be installed under the hot water tank; alternatively, a pan under the compact unit.
• Access to the attic must be larger than what a typical access hatch allows, unless the original staircase leads to the attic. Eventually, the heating unit will need replacement, and this is difficult through a standard access hatch.

Regards, Bauexperte

Bauexperte schrieb:


The consequences are as follows:

• The structural engineer must check whether the wooden beam ceiling has sufficient load-bearing capacity
• You need to ensure ventilation – this can be done with casement windows
• Precautions must be taken in case the domestic hot water tank leaks. This means a drip tray must be installed under the tank; alternatively, a tray under the compact unit.
• Access to the attic must be larger than what a typical attic hatch allows, unless the original staircase leads directly to the attic. Eventually, the heating system needs to be replaced, which is difficult through a standard attic hatch.

In total, won’t these measures (possibly including additional reinforcement if required by the structural engineer) cost more than insulating a technical room on the outside along with the pipes?

- Extra cost for the structural engineer (possibly additional measures)
- Extra cost for the windows
- Extra cost for the drip tray
- Extra cost for the staircase compared to a standard attic hatch ladder
- Plus possibly extra heating costs (due to larger modifications/insulated space)

The casement windows would likely need to be electronically controlled by sensors since the homeowner may not always be able to ventilate manually.
Of course, all this makes sense if you plan to convert the attic anyway (then only the extra cost for the drip tray would apply).

Off topic: 600th post