Hello
We have only been using the pump for 4 months (new build). At the moment, we find that with an indoor temperature of 25°C (77°F), it is pleasantly warm. Do you really save much electricity by lowering it to 23°C (73°F) or 22°C (72°F)? Or does it not make much difference whether it is 25°C (77°F) or 22°C (72°F)?
We keep it constant at one temperature setting.
Thank you
We have only been using the pump for 4 months (new build). At the moment, we find that with an indoor temperature of 25°C (77°F), it is pleasantly warm. Do you really save much electricity by lowering it to 23°C (73°F) or 22°C (72°F)? Or does it not make much difference whether it is 25°C (77°F) or 22°C (72°F)?
We keep it constant at one temperature setting.
Thank you
@Help: My idea was to choose an air source heat pump instead of a gas boiler. Initially, there are a few thousand euros more in costs (1500 or 2000 can be offset again since the gas connection is no longer needed). In the medium term, the air source heat pump has the advantage due to lower operating costs compared to gas. However, that is still mostly just my assumption. I also find the possibility of cooling in the summer as well as the combination with ventilation/heat recovery very interesting, aside from the financial aspect. Therefore, ventilation technology is still a big question mark for me.
@Cascada I understand that. You really have to bring everything down to one common denominator. I just didn’t have any concrete numbers yet, whether 1,000 kWh or 10,000 kWh.
For reasons of efficiency, I’m currently thinking of a 1.5-story house with a pitched roof, without dormers, without roof windows, without offsets, close to a square base shape.
Basically, I would aim for KFW-70, but I’m not sure if it’s worth doing officially since I don’t know the costs for applications, certifications, etc. 50,000 at 1.0% sounds good, but the conditions at the local bank probably won’t be much worse. I expect that we will (over)fulfill KfW-70 standards, but whether it’s worth going through the official process is something I still need to find out. But that is already almost off-topic.
Best regards
@Cascada I understand that. You really have to bring everything down to one common denominator. I just didn’t have any concrete numbers yet, whether 1,000 kWh or 10,000 kWh.
For reasons of efficiency, I’m currently thinking of a 1.5-story house with a pitched roof, without dormers, without roof windows, without offsets, close to a square base shape.
Basically, I would aim for KFW-70, but I’m not sure if it’s worth doing officially since I don’t know the costs for applications, certifications, etc. 50,000 at 1.0% sounds good, but the conditions at the local bank probably won’t be much worse. I expect that we will (over)fulfill KfW-70 standards, but whether it’s worth going through the official process is something I still need to find out. But that is already almost off-topic.
Best regards
N
nordanney29 Jan 2015 13:37HilfeHilfe schrieb:
Hello nordanney,
how did you determine the proportion of hot water?My neighbor has a Stiebel Eltron air-to-water heat pump that records electricity consumption separately.
Cascada schrieb:
@Cascada I understand that. You really have to get everything down to a common denominator. I just didn’t have a clear figure yet, whether 1,000 kWh or 10,000 kWh.
For efficiency reasons, I’m currently considering a one-and-a-half-story house with a gable roof, without dormers, skylights, or offsets, close to a square floor plan.
Basically, I would aim for KfW-70, but I’m not sure if it’s worth officially pursuing it since I don’t know the costs for the application, documentation, etc. 50,000 at 1.0% sounds good, but the bank’s terms probably won’t be much worse. I expect we will meet or exceed KfW-70 standards, but whether it’s worth going through the official process remains to be seen. That’s almost off-topic though.
RegardsThere is already a heating load calculation done in advance, which takes all conditions into account. Based on that, the heat pump can be sized accordingly.
KfW-70 – the additional cost compared to the standard energy saving regulations is manageable, also considering the cost-benefit analysis. And in case of a future sale, KfW-70 looks better on the listing. Moving from KfW-70 to KfW-55, for example, involves significantly more effort...
D
DerBjoern29 Jan 2015 14:38sirhc schrieb:
In the medium term, air source heat pumps have the advantage due to lower operating costs compared to gas. However, this is still mostly just my assumption.I wouldn’t take that as set in stone either...
A quick update from us on the electricity consumption – or rather the current status.
We are heating with a ground source heat pump.
We were told to expect 8,000 to 10,000 kWh in the first two years, then about 6,000 kWh afterward. I’m curious to see if that’s accurate, but I tend to think that estimate might be on the high side.
Our heat pump was switched on at the beginning of September. However, at that time, all heating was done electrically to warm up the house and dry the screed (I estimate this used the first 1,500 to 1,800 kWh). After we reduced the heating during our own work (painting), we moved in at the end of November. Until the truly cold days at the end of December, the hot water was not warmed by the electric backup heater.
Now, after all that background, here is the current status: since starting the heat pump, we have used about 2,850 kWh. This December, I checked the meter each morning. Our daily consumption on the heat pump is currently between 20 and 26 kWh, depending on whether the hot water tank needs reheating.
This consumption is during the cold season. I’m interested to see how the usage will be in spring or summer. We will see where we end up.
Oh, and the house is built to KfW 70 standard with an area of just over 170 m² (1,830 sq ft).
We are heating with a ground source heat pump.
We were told to expect 8,000 to 10,000 kWh in the first two years, then about 6,000 kWh afterward. I’m curious to see if that’s accurate, but I tend to think that estimate might be on the high side.
Our heat pump was switched on at the beginning of September. However, at that time, all heating was done electrically to warm up the house and dry the screed (I estimate this used the first 1,500 to 1,800 kWh). After we reduced the heating during our own work (painting), we moved in at the end of November. Until the truly cold days at the end of December, the hot water was not warmed by the electric backup heater.
Now, after all that background, here is the current status: since starting the heat pump, we have used about 2,850 kWh. This December, I checked the meter each morning. Our daily consumption on the heat pump is currently between 20 and 26 kWh, depending on whether the hot water tank needs reheating.
This consumption is during the cold season. I’m interested to see how the usage will be in spring or summer. We will see where we end up.
Oh, and the house is built to KfW 70 standard with an area of just over 170 m² (1,830 sq ft).
H
HilfeHilfe29 Jan 2015 14:57Cascada schrieb:
@HilfeHilfe
Depending on the type of heat pump, you should at least be able to read the compressor run times for heating and hot water. Then, you can calculate it proportionally... or even directly read the consumed energy and the amount of heat produced...
.Hello,
I need to ask again. Where can I find the compressor run time? On the air source heat pump control panel? We do have heat meters in the apartments, but they are connected to the heating circuits. The plumber said that these meters also record these values based on the return flow of the hot water. I didn’t want to believe that because hot water is heated to a higher temperature than heating water.
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