Hello dear forum members!
We are currently in the planning phase for our house with a double garage (about 200 to 230 sq m (2150 to 2475 sq ft) of living space) and have tried to create a draft according to our ideas. Since we are not yet 100% satisfied (especially with the upper floor, where we feel the space is not used well), we would greatly appreciate your suggestions, comments, and ideas. Thank you in advance!
About the house/lot:
The width is 20 m (65.6 ft). The west side is not very suitable for a terrace or similar due to neighboring buildings, so we have placed the entrance and staircase there. The building line requires the house to be 6-10 m (20 to 33 ft) away from the street. We would like a half-hipped roof with a knee wall height of 1.6 m (5.2 ft), so that the sloping ceilings on the upper floor are only moderately affecting the usable space. The kitchen should be open to the dining room, and the dining room should be semi-open or separated by a sliding door to the living room. If possible, the walk-in closet should connect the bedroom and the master bathroom and must accommodate a wardrobe that is 4.10 m (13.5 ft) wide.
What else would you need to know?
We are currently in the planning phase for our house with a double garage (about 200 to 230 sq m (2150 to 2475 sq ft) of living space) and have tried to create a draft according to our ideas. Since we are not yet 100% satisfied (especially with the upper floor, where we feel the space is not used well), we would greatly appreciate your suggestions, comments, and ideas. Thank you in advance!
About the house/lot:
The width is 20 m (65.6 ft). The west side is not very suitable for a terrace or similar due to neighboring buildings, so we have placed the entrance and staircase there. The building line requires the house to be 6-10 m (20 to 33 ft) away from the street. We would like a half-hipped roof with a knee wall height of 1.6 m (5.2 ft), so that the sloping ceilings on the upper floor are only moderately affecting the usable space. The kitchen should be open to the dining room, and the dining room should be semi-open or separated by a sliding door to the living room. If possible, the walk-in closet should connect the bedroom and the master bathroom and must accommodate a wardrobe that is 4.10 m (13.5 ft) wide.
What else would you need to know?
cheakyboy schrieb:
Personally, I would skip having a bathroom downstairs. Having one shower downstairs and two showers upstairs for four people (which I’m assuming) seems a bit excessive. I would rather try to use the extra space as a storage room. Is there a particular reason you want so many showers? The idea was: one shower for us, one for our two daughters, and one for guests. That way, guests wouldn’t have to come upstairs to shower and the kids wouldn’t have to go downstairs. Also, sharing one shower between four people who all get up around the same time doesn’t work.
C
cheakyboy17 Jan 2015 17:30Ok, with two daughters, it looks different again 😉 If that's the case, I would plan for a small 80cm (31.5 inch) shower in the guest bathroom, otherwise the toilet area will become too cramped.
Hello again,
we also have two bathrooms on the upper floor and therefore decided against installing a shower in the guest toilet. This also has the advantage that the "public" bathroom is easier to keep clean. I assume you don’t have overnight guests very often since there is no guest room.
What about load-bearing walls? I don’t see any load-bearing walls on the upper floor that align with load-bearing walls on the ground floor. What supports your upper floor ceiling? I think the structural engineer will have some fun with that ;-)
Do you really want your guests to always pass through the kitchen to get to the dining room?
By the way, we managed to fit the same room layout plus a study into 180m³ (6,350 cubic feet) without any problem.
we also have two bathrooms on the upper floor and therefore decided against installing a shower in the guest toilet. This also has the advantage that the "public" bathroom is easier to keep clean. I assume you don’t have overnight guests very often since there is no guest room.
What about load-bearing walls? I don’t see any load-bearing walls on the upper floor that align with load-bearing walls on the ground floor. What supports your upper floor ceiling? I think the structural engineer will have some fun with that ;-)
Do you really want your guests to always pass through the kitchen to get to the dining room?
By the way, we managed to fit the same room layout plus a study into 180m³ (6,350 cubic feet) without any problem.
Your sofa is 2 m (6.6 ft) wide? 😀 wow.
Remove the shower from the ground floor – you don’t have a guest room down there anyway. Combine the toilet area into a 1.2 m by 1.95 m (3.9 ft by 6.4 ft) space and enlarge your wardrobe. As it is, it’s not functional.
The kitchen seems fine – quite spacious – but you might consider removing the bay window, slightly reducing the kitchen size, and rotating the dining table – it fits nicely in roughly 8.1 m by 3.8 m (26.6 ft by 12.5 ft).
The living room furniture arrangement is obviously impractical… there’s a lot of free space. You could probably reduce it by about 15 m² (160 ft²). Alternatively, relocate the dining table to the living room and save space in the kitchen. The utility room is very large at 20 m² (215 ft²). Maybe separate the technical equipment.
Remove the shower from the ground floor – you don’t have a guest room down there anyway. Combine the toilet area into a 1.2 m by 1.95 m (3.9 ft by 6.4 ft) space and enlarge your wardrobe. As it is, it’s not functional.
The kitchen seems fine – quite spacious – but you might consider removing the bay window, slightly reducing the kitchen size, and rotating the dining table – it fits nicely in roughly 8.1 m by 3.8 m (26.6 ft by 12.5 ft).
The living room furniture arrangement is obviously impractical… there’s a lot of free space. You could probably reduce it by about 15 m² (160 ft²). Alternatively, relocate the dining table to the living room and save space in the kitchen. The utility room is very large at 20 m² (215 ft²). Maybe separate the technical equipment.
Before I write something pointless, it would be helpful to know whether you are building with or without a basement, what kind of room the 15 sqm (160 sq ft) space in the north is supposed to be, why you need a 40 sqm (430 sq ft) living room (okay, a 4-meter-long sofa has to fit 😉), and whether you are deliberately increasing the room sizes by about one-third—assuming the budget allows for extra square meters—because you prefer a "generous" feel.
I ask because some people have no sense of space and therefore no idea how much 10 or 15 sqm (100 or 160 sq ft) actually means. Others want to experience spaciousness in their large number of square meters—more than most others... What is your goal?
The size contradicts itself again with a small highlight: a dining room bay window was common in the 1980s to make small rooms feel a bit larger.
Best regards,
Yvonne
I ask because some people have no sense of space and therefore no idea how much 10 or 15 sqm (100 or 160 sq ft) actually means. Others want to experience spaciousness in their large number of square meters—more than most others... What is your goal?
The size contradicts itself again with a small highlight: a dining room bay window was common in the 1980s to make small rooms feel a bit larger.
Best regards,
Yvonne
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