ᐅ Terrace Planning for an End-Row House with a Large Garden – What to Consider?
Created on: 4 Aug 2025 13:41
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Bauherrin123
Hello everyone,
we are now moving on to the outdoor area. We have an end-terrace house with a relatively large garden but a small budget. Still, we want to build a large, beautiful terrace.
We have contacted various craftsmen, gardeners, and companies with offers ranging from $5,000 to $25,000 (or equivalent), so all kinds of quotes.
I need some ideas now:
Below is the sketch: The main point is that I definitely want two terraces: one main terrace along the house in the front, 28m² (301 sq ft), and a smaller one on the side, 12m² (129 sq ft). Now I want to connect the terraces, and I have heard different opinions on this. Some recommend offsetting the terrace stones as a pathway, etc. I have actually decided to close off the corner, meaning to expand the main terrace on the side, creating a corner terrace. Sometimes I worry that it might not look good and I’m unsure. We have a large family; I want large tables with chairs, swings, and more solid surface, but without overdoing it. Also, I don’t want to have to take care of a huge garden, so that would be practical for me. The neighbor was not allowed to build wider or bigger due to property division rules limiting the sealed area, but for Jens, that should not be a problem.
Now my question to you:
How would you plan the terrace? The bigger it is, the more expensive it will be.
What kind of slabs do you have, what material and installation method? I have quotes for 2cm (3/4 inch) slabs set in concrete or 4cm (1 1/2 inch) slabs on a gravel/sand base. I want large slabs.
I would like light-colored slabs with anthracite edging. Regarding roofing, I’m not sure if I’m allowed to build 7m (23 ft) wide and whether I can exceed the building limit line. I would like about 7 by 4m (23 by 13 ft)... but that would be 1m (3 ft) over the building limit. On the side, I have already enlarged the living space with a bay window under a special permit; I don’t know if I can add a roof there too. Now I need advice, ideas, tips—I’m a bit lost about what to consider, etc.
I’m also happy to hear about your experiences with terraces, what mistakes you made, what worked well, what you would do differently. Especially, what did your terraces cost.
Thank you
we are now moving on to the outdoor area. We have an end-terrace house with a relatively large garden but a small budget. Still, we want to build a large, beautiful terrace.
We have contacted various craftsmen, gardeners, and companies with offers ranging from $5,000 to $25,000 (or equivalent), so all kinds of quotes.
I need some ideas now:
Below is the sketch: The main point is that I definitely want two terraces: one main terrace along the house in the front, 28m² (301 sq ft), and a smaller one on the side, 12m² (129 sq ft). Now I want to connect the terraces, and I have heard different opinions on this. Some recommend offsetting the terrace stones as a pathway, etc. I have actually decided to close off the corner, meaning to expand the main terrace on the side, creating a corner terrace. Sometimes I worry that it might not look good and I’m unsure. We have a large family; I want large tables with chairs, swings, and more solid surface, but without overdoing it. Also, I don’t want to have to take care of a huge garden, so that would be practical for me. The neighbor was not allowed to build wider or bigger due to property division rules limiting the sealed area, but for Jens, that should not be a problem.
Now my question to you:
How would you plan the terrace? The bigger it is, the more expensive it will be.
What kind of slabs do you have, what material and installation method? I have quotes for 2cm (3/4 inch) slabs set in concrete or 4cm (1 1/2 inch) slabs on a gravel/sand base. I want large slabs.
I would like light-colored slabs with anthracite edging. Regarding roofing, I’m not sure if I’m allowed to build 7m (23 ft) wide and whether I can exceed the building limit line. I would like about 7 by 4m (23 by 13 ft)... but that would be 1m (3 ft) over the building limit. On the side, I have already enlarged the living space with a bay window under a special permit; I don’t know if I can add a roof there too. Now I need advice, ideas, tips—I’m a bit lost about what to consider, etc.
I’m also happy to hear about your experiences with terraces, what mistakes you made, what worked well, what you would do differently. Especially, what did your terraces cost.
Thank you
B
Bauherrin1237 Aug 2025 21:32It may be that I exaggerated the size of the garden. However, we live in a large city, although in a neighborhood somewhat outside the city center, and have a 400m² (4,300 sq ft) plot where the house is located, with the rest being garden and 3 parking spaces. We actually have one of the largest gardens in this area. The garden is about 15m (49 feet) wide and 25m (82 feet) long, I believe. I am a bit busy this week but will definitely upload a sketch. Many thanks to everyone who responded. I am also considering building slightly smaller around the house, but adding a small terrace in one corner for grilling, etc. I will get back to you over the weekend.
Best regards
Best regards
B
Bauherrin1238 Aug 2025 23:01I have been working this week and couldn’t respond earlier. I’m reading through the posts again. Thank you very much for your efforts. I’m considering actually building the terrace a bit smaller. I will try to upload the sketch of the property so we can plan better together. Meanwhile, I looked at some patio stones today. I wanted to ask how your terraces are installed. I have asked several gardeners and tradespeople, and everyone recommends something different.
For the main terrace, my husband wants fine stone patio slabs made of ceramic. There are several thicknesses available. Some say to glue or lay 2 cm (0.8 inches) slabs on concrete, others prefer laying them on gravel. Could someone explain the advantages and disadvantages? It’s clear what kind of material we want for the terrace; the question is only about the thickness. Many thanks.
For the main terrace, my husband wants fine stone patio slabs made of ceramic. There are several thicknesses available. Some say to glue or lay 2 cm (0.8 inches) slabs on concrete, others prefer laying them on gravel. Could someone explain the advantages and disadvantages? It’s clear what kind of material we want for the terrace; the question is only about the thickness. Many thanks.
M
MachsSelbst9 Aug 2025 00:18I’m puzzled as to why the idea persists that a wooden deck is cheaper and especially easier to install than one made of porcelain tiles.
Frost protection and gravel are needed for wooden decks as well. With stone, you’re basically done after that and can start laying the slabs, compacting them, and filling the joints with sand. Simple.
With wood, it’s just beginning. You need bitumen pads to prevent rising moisture. Then build and level the substructure. After that, the wooden decking boards have to be fastened with hundreds of screws, including pre-drilling. Don’t forget the ventilation grilles on the sides...
And the price? Sure, if you buy low-quality Douglas fir from a hardware store, 30m² (320 sq ft) costs around 800-1,000 EUR. With good maintenance, it will last 5 to 10 years.
If you want something decent like oak, Bangkirai, robinia, or ipe, 30m² (320 sq ft) quickly costs 3,000-5,000 EUR just for the boards alone. This does not include the substructure or ventilation...
Porcelain tiles can be purchased at the hardware store—where you might also buy the Douglas fir—for 30 to 40 EUR/m².
A durable wooden deck is much more expensive than its counterpart made from decking tiles. With natural stone, costs might come closer, but very few choose that option anyway.
People choose wood because they want it... not because it’s cheaper or easier.
If you can’t get a stone terrace perfectly level, you won’t manage it with wood either.
Frost protection and gravel are needed for wooden decks as well. With stone, you’re basically done after that and can start laying the slabs, compacting them, and filling the joints with sand. Simple.
With wood, it’s just beginning. You need bitumen pads to prevent rising moisture. Then build and level the substructure. After that, the wooden decking boards have to be fastened with hundreds of screws, including pre-drilling. Don’t forget the ventilation grilles on the sides...
And the price? Sure, if you buy low-quality Douglas fir from a hardware store, 30m² (320 sq ft) costs around 800-1,000 EUR. With good maintenance, it will last 5 to 10 years.
If you want something decent like oak, Bangkirai, robinia, or ipe, 30m² (320 sq ft) quickly costs 3,000-5,000 EUR just for the boards alone. This does not include the substructure or ventilation...
Porcelain tiles can be purchased at the hardware store—where you might also buy the Douglas fir—for 30 to 40 EUR/m².
A durable wooden deck is much more expensive than its counterpart made from decking tiles. With natural stone, costs might come closer, but very few choose that option anyway.
People choose wood because they want it... not because it’s cheaper or easier.
If you can’t get a stone terrace perfectly level, you won’t manage it with wood either.
B
Bauherrin12320 Aug 2025 10:39Hello again, I have recalculated carefully and would be exceeding the allowed area by 10m2 (108 square feet). Now I’m wondering whether I should just build larger like that or if it’s better to submit a preliminary building enquiry to find out exactly how much bigger I am allowed to build.
Bauherrin123 schrieb:
Now I'm wondering whether I should just build larger or if I should first submit a preliminary building inquiry to find out exactly how much bigger I am allowed to build. Neither.
Plan carefully and thoroughly, and use different materials than stoneware on areas where you want to stay close to the allowed footprint. We have already advised you several times not to pave everywhere for various reasons.
Don’t involve the building authority with inquiries unnecessarily—they might then want to inspect everything and complain about your fences.
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