Hello everyone,
Two years ago, we moved into our house, including the basement.
In the basement, we created a large room, which at the moment and in the future is divided into:
One side hobby room
One side storage/pantry room
I would like to visually separate both areas. I want to do this properly and am thinking of using drywall with gypsum board panels.
Now to my questions, or rather, I would like to get some advice here:
1. Does drywall make the most sense in terms of price/performance here?
2. I would ideally like to install panels on both sides, but without insulation – does that make sense? It’s meant purely as a visual separation.
3. Regarding the door opening: Obviously, a passage is needed, but it does not have to be a hinged door – maybe a sliding option could work, or possibly just leaving it open, since the doorway area is a nice feature visually and it could also be practical to keep the passage permanently open. Of course, planning a door makes sense for the future, but maybe someone has another idea?
4. I am open to suggestions or tips to keep everything as cost-effective as possible.
Thank you very much!!
Two years ago, we moved into our house, including the basement.
In the basement, we created a large room, which at the moment and in the future is divided into:
One side hobby room
One side storage/pantry room
I would like to visually separate both areas. I want to do this properly and am thinking of using drywall with gypsum board panels.
Now to my questions, or rather, I would like to get some advice here:
1. Does drywall make the most sense in terms of price/performance here?
2. I would ideally like to install panels on both sides, but without insulation – does that make sense? It’s meant purely as a visual separation.
3. Regarding the door opening: Obviously, a passage is needed, but it does not have to be a hinged door – maybe a sliding option could work, or possibly just leaving it open, since the doorway area is a nice feature visually and it could also be practical to keep the passage permanently open. Of course, planning a door makes sense for the future, but maybe someone has another idea?
4. I am open to suggestions or tips to keep everything as cost-effective as possible.
Thank you very much!!
Harakiri schrieb:
Oh, I actually forgot—or more precisely, overlooked—that the spacing between axes for 60cm (24 inches) panels is 30cm (12 inches)! At least, that’s what the manufacturer specifies. What you do with that information is up to you, but I wouldn’t necessarily skimp on the profiles. Ah, so it will be fastened again in the middle... I’ll take a closer look at that, or rather calculate it precisely, and then I’ll add a strut in the middle as well on each one. I’m not going to cut corners on that.
Simple question:
When I insert the vertical CW studs into my UW tracks at the floor and ceiling, are they not fixed anywhere else?
According to instructions I found online, they are just slid in. But if I then attach my OSB boards on top, wouldn’t the studs slide slightly, causing them to no longer be perfectly vertical? Or am I misunderstanding something?
And one more question: I’ve watched different videos. In one, Knauf installs the door frame right after assembling the metal frame, before installing any sheathing. Does that make sense, or would it be equally fine to deal with the door frame afterward?
When I insert the vertical CW studs into my UW tracks at the floor and ceiling, are they not fixed anywhere else?
According to instructions I found online, they are just slid in. But if I then attach my OSB boards on top, wouldn’t the studs slide slightly, causing them to no longer be perfectly vertical? Or am I misunderstanding something?
And one more question: I’ve watched different videos. In one, Knauf installs the door frame right after assembling the metal frame, before installing any sheathing. Does that make sense, or would it be equally fine to deal with the door frame afterward?
The CW studs fit quite tightly; usually, you have to insert them at an angle and then "click" them into place by twisting. Normally, they don’t slide out easily unless they are knocked, which is unlikely once the drywall is installed.
It is not recommended, but I have punched them onto the UW tracks myself. This allows enough room for movement while keeping them in position. As mentioned, this is not advised since, according to the manufacturer's guidelines, the studs should be completely free to accommodate the expansion of the boards, etc. However, since the profile manufacturers even sell punching tools for this purpose, it is probably a common practice.
I can’t imagine fitting a door frame directly onto the metal substructure—maybe with one of the Knauf drywall door systems, such as sliding doors that disappear into the wall or flush doors. These, however, are special cases.
It is not recommended, but I have punched them onto the UW tracks myself. This allows enough room for movement while keeping them in position. As mentioned, this is not advised since, according to the manufacturer's guidelines, the studs should be completely free to accommodate the expansion of the boards, etc. However, since the profile manufacturers even sell punching tools for this purpose, it is probably a common practice.
I can’t imagine fitting a door frame directly onto the metal substructure—maybe with one of the Knauf drywall door systems, such as sliding doors that disappear into the wall or flush doors. These, however, are special cases.
If I screw everything together with OSB panels, I can also use the standard 1mm steel CW profiles around the door area, right?
The reinforcement profile shouldn’t be necessary, correct?
And regarding the door lintel profile: can’t I just use a leftover piece of the CW profile here, cut it a bit longer, bend the end pieces up or down, and screw it to the CW profile on the side?
I can’t imagine that any reinforced profiles are necessary if I screw everything together with OSB panels, can I?
The reinforcement profile shouldn’t be necessary, correct?
And regarding the door lintel profile: can’t I just use a leftover piece of the CW profile here, cut it a bit longer, bend the end pieces up or down, and screw it to the CW profile on the side?
I can’t imagine that any reinforced profiles are necessary if I screw everything together with OSB panels, can I?
If you use OSB and aim for standard door width/door height/door leaf dimensions, you can probably do without the UA profiles.
And yes, you can also cut a profile (at an angle) and fold down the flanges — but for this, you would use a UW profile, not a CW profile. However, the special door lintel profiles have the advantage that they are usually pre-punched to fit standard door widths, giving you an additional check to avoid errors with the rough opening dimensions.
And yes, you can also cut a profile (at an angle) and fold down the flanges — but for this, you would use a UW profile, not a CW profile. However, the special door lintel profiles have the advantage that they are usually pre-punched to fit standard door widths, giving you an additional check to avoid errors with the rough opening dimensions.
Harakiri schrieb:
If you use OSB and aim for a standard door width/height/door leaf size, you can probably skip the UA profiles.
And yes, you can also cut into a profile and bend down the flanges – but for this, you would use a UW profile, not a CW profile. However, the special door lintel profiles have the advantage that they are usually pre-punched for standard door widths, giving you extra assurance that you won’t make any mistakes with the rough opening dimensions for the door. I chose a 760mm (30 inches) rough opening width and will therefore be using a rather narrow door – the height will be 1985mm (78 inches). So I also think UA profiles are not necessary.
I’m planning to just use the regular profiles for this!
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