ᐅ KfW 40 house with a 10 kW wood stove—too large or appropriate?

This stove is enough to heat our house almost completely.

130m² (1400 sq ft) of living space with a total usable area of 165m² (1780 sq ft).
Built to KfW 55 standard (23 kWh/m²/year).
The stove runs for 2-3 hours and consumes about 10-15 kg (22-33 lbs) of wood.

At temperatures around 0-5°C (32-41°F).

You will definitely overheat your room.
If you’re not careful even once, the room temperature will quickly rise to almost 30°C (86°F).

We use heat storage stones.
But once they are fully charged, the temperature in the room increases rapidly.

Then I need to speak with the stove installer again, thanks for the comments.

Neuer von Da schrieb:

You will definitely overheat your room.
If you’re not careful even once, suddenly it’s almost 30°C (86°F) in the room....

I don’t understand how you can overheat your houses with that. We weren’t able to do it with a similarly sized stove. More than 25°C (77°F) in the evening was not possible in an area of 75 m² (800 ft²). No, the windows and doors were not left wide open…

I’m installing an 8 kW stove this autumn. I have zero concerns about it.

nordanney schrieb:

I don’t understand how you can overheat your houses with that. We didn’t manage it with a similarly sized stove. More than 25 degrees Celsius (77°F) weren’t possible in the evening with 75 sqm (807 sq ft) of space. No, the windows and doors weren’t open for cross-ventilation...

In autumn, I’m installing an 8 kW stove. I have zero concerns about it.

We have Schwörerhaus exterior walls, 31 cm (12 inches) thick.
And the annoying air-to-air heat pump.

It runs about 8–10 hours a day and extracts humidity from the air...
Or, supposedly, it can heat with 2 kWh... Feels like it actually cools the house down.
Maybe just more slowly.

The ceiling fan pushes heat down from the ceiling (winter mode) and seems to draw in most of the cooler air from the ground floor.
The staircase (with open risers) is next to the living room, and the chimney effect plus the slight operation of the air-to-air heat pump cause the temperatures upstairs to rise.
It’s about 20 degrees Celsius (68°F) in the bedrooms.
The bathroom upstairs is heated separately to around 21–22 degrees Celsius (70–72°F).
In extremely cold weather, I switch on the infrared heater with 130 watts per 15 sqm (161 sq ft), which is enough to keep the rooms around 20 degrees Celsius (68°F), even at minus 10 degrees Celsius (14°F).

Costs:

Some firewood
Chimney sweep costs per year
Electricity for the air-to-air heat pump.
About 1500 kWh per year including domestic hot water heat pump

Some household electricity for bathroom and infrared heating
But our household electricity use is low, about 1300 kWh per year
(little cooking, TV, and since October a small solar system on the balcony has been running)

This was the cheapest solution I found without using the additional air-to-air heater ("fan heater") (which would also use household electricity).
That alone consumes about 40 kWh per day (in cold weather) just for heating, plus electricity for the heat pump.

In other words, I mainly rely on the stove.
And I only have to heat the house once, or twice with very cold weather.

At nearly 400 meters (1312 feet) above sea level.

In my opinion, besides the room volume and insulation, it is even more important whether the floor plan is open and what type of stove you have.

We have a soapstone wood stove in the living room and an open staircase there. It never gets too warm, even when we run the 9 kW (12 hp) stove at full capacity.

Additionally, it is crucial whether you have a masonry heater with 10 kW (13 hp) or a stove that releases heat directly.

Neuer von Da schrieb:

The ceiling fan pushes the warm air down from the ceiling (winter mode) and seems to draw all the colder air from the ground floor.

I would be interested in hearing about your experiences with this, including the model, function, mounting location, etc.
Of course, physics causes the warm air in our home (mostly heated by a fireplace) to rise first to the rather large gallery, where it warms up initially. We have now started installing these fans directly on the chimney pipe itself, although I was initially skeptical about them. However, it has turned out that it is less warm upstairs, meaning more heat stays downstairs, so this works well.
Our infrared heater sometimes turns on as a backup, but we mostly keep it as a basic safety measure.
We rarely use the “air heat” from the air conditioning system—only, for example, when I am upstairs and want to warm up quickly; then I use the power mode for 15 minutes, and it feels comfortable. Otherwise, in summer, the system acts as air conditioning.
We have KfW 40 or even better insulation levels, and in my opinion, we really have low heating costs; however, I believe this only works with such individual user behavior, especially with a stove involved—otherwise, controlling the temperature can be difficult.
In our previous apartment, we had planned underfloor heating and a fireplace, but we abandoned the fireplace because it often became too warm when the sun suddenly came out.

Neuer von Da schrieb:

So basically, I mostly only use the stove...

Same here, I think we have a similar model, also combined with a domestic hot water heat pump, and overall I find it very cost-effective.

elminster schrieb:

From my perspective, besides room volume and insulation, it matters a lot whether the floor plan is open and which stove you have.
We have a Swedish stove with soapstone in the living room and an open staircase there. It never gets too warm, even when we fully fire up the 9 kW stove.
It’s also very important whether you have a masonry stove with 10 kW or a stove that releases heat directly.

Exactly. The individual situation on site is of utmost importance (insulation, windows, solar gain, etc.), so it’s not always easy to compare. In addition, there is always the individual user behavior and personal comfort preferences. For example, I prefer it cooler rather than too warm.