Hello everyone,
Two years ago, we moved into our house, including the basement.
In the basement, we created a large room, which at the moment and in the future is divided into:
One side hobby room
One side storage/pantry room
I would like to visually separate both areas. I want to do this properly and am thinking of using drywall with gypsum board panels.
Now to my questions, or rather, I would like to get some advice here:
1. Does drywall make the most sense in terms of price/performance here?
2. I would ideally like to install panels on both sides, but without insulation – does that make sense? It’s meant purely as a visual separation.
3. Regarding the door opening: Obviously, a passage is needed, but it does not have to be a hinged door – maybe a sliding option could work, or possibly just leaving it open, since the doorway area is a nice feature visually and it could also be practical to keep the passage permanently open. Of course, planning a door makes sense for the future, but maybe someone has another idea?
4. I am open to suggestions or tips to keep everything as cost-effective as possible.
Thank you very much!!
Two years ago, we moved into our house, including the basement.
In the basement, we created a large room, which at the moment and in the future is divided into:
One side hobby room
One side storage/pantry room
I would like to visually separate both areas. I want to do this properly and am thinking of using drywall with gypsum board panels.
Now to my questions, or rather, I would like to get some advice here:
1. Does drywall make the most sense in terms of price/performance here?
2. I would ideally like to install panels on both sides, but without insulation – does that make sense? It’s meant purely as a visual separation.
3. Regarding the door opening: Obviously, a passage is needed, but it does not have to be a hinged door – maybe a sliding option could work, or possibly just leaving it open, since the doorway area is a nice feature visually and it could also be practical to keep the passage permanently open. Of course, planning a door makes sense for the future, but maybe someone has another idea?
4. I am open to suggestions or tips to keep everything as cost-effective as possible.
Thank you very much!!
Arauki11 schrieb:
Since it is apparently rather unclear how things will be in the future or may change again, I could also imagine a solution using shelves that can be moved or adjusted as needed. These can be closed off on one side or used as required. I wouldn’t like a door frame without a door planned for later because it simply looks like a door frame without a door. There are also inexpensive folding doors, but well...
I once had a similar situation with a rather low ceiling height, where I screwed a beam to the floor and another to the ceiling. In between, I reinforced it as needed and then covered both sides with wood. For a basement room, I could also imagine using OSB, and you can simply place and screw a thicker board directly without much substructure.
If sound insulation is important, you would need to use a door. Otherwise, in my opinion, you don’t need any insulation between.
Another idea would be to mill a groove into the floor and ceiling beams and then just slide boards into it. I actually also like the idea of a heavy curtain or some kind of stretched fabric, or something movable—especially since the intended use is still uncertain. Basically, the separation is clear:
Storage room and hobby room — so we want to install a FIXED partition. How the hobby room will look in 10 years is uncertain, but we want to separate the “nice” from the “ugly.” Of course, it should also be something for the future and last long term, so I want to do it properly.
If I imagine drywall construction with plasterboard fixed on one side and mineral wool for insulation, including joint compound etc., I end up around 400€ (no conversion) all in all.
I think it would be quite difficult to match that price with carpentry work, so I almost assume that drywall in this form is the most reasonable way to do it.
Additionally, this gives us the option to create more space on the walls, for example, to install shelves for storage.
Prager91 schrieb:
Thanks for the information! I can attach 25 kg loads to a single gypsum fiberboard, right? So smaller shelves should definitely be possible – that would save me some work. Nothing is planned here anyway. 25 kg (55 lbs) is the general rule of thumb per drywall anchor/hollow wall anchor for standard single-layer gypsum plasterboard. With gypsum fiberboards, you can theoretically support much higher loads per fixing point; even simple screws can hold loads up to 30 kg (66 lbs) – however, you quickly reach the structural limits of the overall wall construction. For both gypsum plasterboard and gypsum fiberboard, these limits are usually around 40 kg (88 lbs) per linear meter of wall (with typical board thicknesses in a single-layer standard installation, without special joint treatment, etc.).
In other words: small shelves without large overhangs and heavy loads are certainly feasible. Anything beyond that requires some planning – either by using double layer boarding, wooden brackets/crossbeams, or possibly a fully installed OSB panel behind the board. You might want to consider whether this could become relevant in the future due to a change of use – in that case, it’s most cost-effective to plan accordingly during construction.
Harakiri schrieb:
The rule of thumb is 25 kg (55 lbs) per drywall anchor/hollow wall anchor for standard single-layer gypsum board. With gypsum fiberboards, you can theoretically assign much higher loads per fixing point; even simple screws can hold loads of up to 30 kg (66 lbs) – however, you quickly reach the structural limits of the entire wall system. For both gypsum board and gypsum fiberboard, these limits are usually around 40 kg per linear meter (approximately 27 lbs per linear foot) of wall (with standard single-layer panel thicknesses, without special joint treatments, etc.).
In other words: small shelves without large overhangs and heavy loads are definitely possible. Anything else requires some advance planning – either through double-layer drywall, wood brackets/crossbeams, or possibly a full-surface OSB panel behind it. You might want to consider whether future changes of use could become an issue – in that case, it’s most cost-effective to prepare for it during construction.Thanks for your info!
There are quite a few guides online for this, and I generally feel confident about building such a drywall partition. My only concern is the door opening with subsequent door installation – do you happen to have any tips or know of any specific videos you could recommend for this?
Well, I didn't find the topic of door openings that complicated – the tricky part is cutting the UA profiles properly (of course, you can’t just use small tin snips like you would with a regular profile). In theory, you’re not supposed to use an angle grinder, but probably no one really follows that rule (unless you have a cold saw or an electric metal shears on hand).
I found the videos from Knauf and Rigips to be fairly accurate and well explained. If you want something even more pragmatic/practical.
P.S.: Oh, and toggle bolts are a pain; I never really managed to use them properly (at least not in thin 50mm (2 inch) profiles). I gave up and used other anchor solutions instead.
I found the videos from Knauf and Rigips to be fairly accurate and well explained. If you want something even more pragmatic/practical.
P.S.: Oh, and toggle bolts are a pain; I never really managed to use them properly (at least not in thin 50mm (2 inch) profiles). I gave up and used other anchor solutions instead.
Prager91 schrieb:
Fixing the wall to laminate flooring that’s installed as a floating floor isn’t a problem, right? There is no underfloor heating beneath it.
For the wall probably not (as long as the floor anchors are long enough), but definitely for the laminate – it needs to be able to “float,” and you would be fixing it in place. That’s asking for trouble. You’ll need to cut out the floor covering and don’t forget the sound insulation decoupling at the profiles.
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