Hello,
unfortunately, my post simply disappeared again yesterday, so I’ll try my luck once more.
A brief introduction: I am 48, female, single, and based in northern Baden-Württemberg.
I’m still at the very beginning of my house-building planning but already own a plot of land, for which I will sign the purchase contract in the coming weeks.
I want a small, single-story house without a basement, with a small, low-maintenance garden and nothing fancy.
It is unclear whether another person might move in ever, so I don’t want to plan for that at this point.
Basically, it would depend on the cost what 10-15 m² (100-160 sq ft) more would mean, as my budget is naturally limited.
Room plan
Kitchen + Dining + Living + Work approx. 40 m² (430 sq ft)
Bedroom approx. 14 m² (150 sq ft)
Dressing room -
Work/Guest/Child room approx. 10 m² (110 sq ft) optional
Bathroom + WC approx. 7 m² (75 sq ft)
Hallway approx. 5 m² (55 sq ft)
Utility room approx. 8 m² (85 sq ft)
Guest WC -
Storage room -
Total approx. 75 - 85 m² (810 - 915 sq ft)
Questionnaire regarding the floor plan:
Attached are a section of the development plan and a rough drawing of the house (green), carport (blue) and patio (yellow) on the screenshot from Boris BW.
I have also attached my first attempts at floor plans (once with the entrance in the north and once in the east). I probably used the wrong tool for drafting, but I hope something can still be understood or used.
I look forward to constructive feedback.
Thank you in advance for your time.
unfortunately, my post simply disappeared again yesterday, so I’ll try my luck once more.
A brief introduction: I am 48, female, single, and based in northern Baden-Württemberg.
I’m still at the very beginning of my house-building planning but already own a plot of land, for which I will sign the purchase contract in the coming weeks.
I want a small, single-story house without a basement, with a small, low-maintenance garden and nothing fancy.
It is unclear whether another person might move in ever, so I don’t want to plan for that at this point.
Basically, it would depend on the cost what 10-15 m² (100-160 sq ft) more would mean, as my budget is naturally limited.
Room plan
Kitchen + Dining + Living + Work approx. 40 m² (430 sq ft)
Bedroom approx. 14 m² (150 sq ft)
Dressing room -
Work/Guest/Child room approx. 10 m² (110 sq ft) optional
Bathroom + WC approx. 7 m² (75 sq ft)
Hallway approx. 5 m² (55 sq ft)
Utility room approx. 8 m² (85 sq ft)
Guest WC -
Storage room -
Total approx. 75 - 85 m² (810 - 915 sq ft)
Questionnaire regarding the floor plan:
| Development plan / restrictions | |
| Plot size | 392 m² (4,220 sq ft) |
| Slope | North-south gradient approx. 1.5 m on 21 m (5 ft on 69 ft) |
| Site coverage ratio | 0.4 |
| Floor area ratio | 0.8 |
| Building envelope, building line and boundary | see development plan |
| Edge development | Setbacks according to open construction style |
| Number of parking spaces | 1.5 (rounded up) per dwelling unit, so 2 |
| Number of stories | II (two stories) |
| Roof type | Pitch 38–43°, half-hip roof or double shed roof |
| Architectural style | ? |
| Orientation | East-West |
| Maximum heights / limits | 8.5 m (28 ft) |
| Further requirements | Cistern of 4.5 m³ (160 cu ft) recommended Garage: with gable roof or green flat roof, carports? Filling allowed up to 1.8 m (6 ft) |
| Builder’s requirements | |
| Style, roof form, building type | Exemption from gable roof at 30°? Bungalow |
| Basement, number of floors | One story without basement |
| Number of people, age | see introduction |
| Space requirements on ground and upper floors | Ground floor 75-80 m² (810 - 860 sq ft) |
| Office: family use or home office? | Home office, integrated in living-dining area |
| Number of overnight guests per year | 0–1 |
| Open or closed architecture | ? |
| Traditional or modern construction style | ? |
| Open kitchen, kitchen island | Kitchen island with depth like regular kitchen cabinets, followed by dining table |
| Number of dining seats | max 4 |
| Fireplace | Undecided |
| Music / stereo wall | No |
| Balcony, roof terrace | No |
| Garage, carport | 1 carport, 1 parking space |
| Vegetable garden, greenhouse | No |
| Further wishes / special features / daily routine, including reasons why some things should be included or not | - No separate office for home office because I don’t want to spend most of the day in a smaller room but rather in the living room with a view of the garden - Retractable staircase to the attic (additional storage space) - Wall in bedroom for wardrobe at least 2.75 m (9 ft) long - Wall in living room at least 2.45 m (8 ft) long for lowboard with TV - Bathtub – uncertain if necessary - Larger shower 90 x 120 cm (36 x 47 inches) with tiled partition wall (avoid glass wall) |
| House design | |
| Who designed the plan: | DIY, based on floor plans from Hanse Haus and various other small house providers |
| What do you like? Why? | Open living-dining-working area in the southern part of the house, utility room not directly next to the bedroom (noise from technical equipment) |
| What do you dislike? Why? | Possibly the hallway / entrance area is rather small |
| Cost estimate according to architect / planner: | ? |
| Personal price limit for the house, incl. equipment: | 250,000–270,000 Euros (approx. 270,000–290,000 USD) turnkey, excluding foundation slab, earthworks, secondary building costs, furnishings, and landscaping |
| Preferred heating system: | Not yet decided, possibly underfloor heating |
| Other considerations | Maximum house length 11.5 m (38 ft) because plot width approx. 18 m (59 ft) minus carport 3 m (10 ft) minus setback 2.5 m (8 ft) minus 1 m (3 ft) buffer in case plot is shorter than 18 m (measured on Boris BW) Carport position could also be on the west side To maximize green space and deal with the slope: house with long side parallel to the street No preference yet regarding solid construction or timber frame, KfW 55 or 40 or X standard |
| Outdoor facilities | - Patio approx. 15 m² (160 sq ft) level with the house - Lawn may have slope - Carport with parking space in front |
| Earthworks | Southern boundary: retaining wall needed to manage slope, neighbors (right and left) have done this with 1.4 m (4.5 ft) L-shaped concrete blocks or hollow blocks, rough offer from earthworks company is available (wall, grading, compacting and preparations for foundation slab, foundation slab, patio and carport [= crane location], graveling, drainage, grounding ring, multi-utility lines, site setup etc. all together approx. 60,000 Euros) |
Attached are a section of the development plan and a rough drawing of the house (green), carport (blue) and patio (yellow) on the screenshot from Boris BW.
I have also attached my first attempts at floor plans (once with the entrance in the north and once in the east). I probably used the wrong tool for drafting, but I hope something can still be understood or used.
I look forward to constructive feedback.
Thank you in advance for your time.
I was also thinking of having the long side of 11m (36 feet) facing the street, extending about 8m (26 feet) into the property. This way, you get a great garden feeling and enjoy looking at your house. If you plan to build solidly, consider the octameter system; I would use 36cm (14 inches) filled bricks with plaster on both the inside and outside, and that’s it. The upper windows are cleaned twice a year from a ladder, still by ourselves.
Newbee-BW schrieb:
I also thought it would be better to have a large south-facing roof area since I need to install a photovoltaic system (Baden-Württemberg). Our photovoltaic orientation is east/west; south is overrated.
In winter, there isn’t much solar radiation anyway, and in summer the sun is almost directly overhead, whereas with east/west you get sunlight from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.
N
nordanney3 Dec 2024 10:52Newbee-BW schrieb:
KNN – take a look here: OK, so this is what you mean by KNN. Then your desired house is out of the question. The program is basically for social housing (and also requires various approvals that are time-consuming and expensive). You could use it if you plan completely differently.
For a living area between 71 and 85 square meters (770 and 915 square feet), for example, you need four "individual rooms," meaning living or retreat rooms (commonly understood as living room/bedroom/dining room/children's room or similar), each with at least 10 square meters (108 square feet). So besides your living room and bedroom, you need two more rooms. A study and a dining room—that means splitting the large living room into three separate rooms.
Social housing.
P.S. A kitchen or an open-plan kitchen-living area does NOT count as an individual room.
Newbee-BW schrieb:
To me, it’s questionable whether the combination of solid construction and KfW 40 (or even tighter) is cost-effective? No (all houses are actually equally airtight, just differently insulated), it is not. Whether thermal insulation is 14 cm (5.5 inches) or 16 cm (6.3 inches) thick, for example, only makes a small difference in material cost.
Newbee-BW schrieb:
With wood, it’s – in layman’s terms – just one more board in between or a plastic barrier. Yes, that is simpler.
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Newbee-BW3 Dec 2024 11:20@nordanney thank you for clarifying – so KNN is definitely off the table and no longer worth considering.
Newbee-BW schrieb:
Unfortunately, my post just disappeared again yesterday,I absolutely don’t understand that; I could not find any reason for it whatsoever. Newbee-BW schrieb:
@11ant You had already commented on my post yesterday – thank you very much for that. Unfortunately, I only managed to skim your reply before everything was gone.It is still perfectly preserved in my notary’s safe, see below. I can also quote my paragraphs from there again here: This is really a pleasure, you did an exemplary job. The relevant height difference of your plot is about one meter (approximately 3 feet 3 inches) or within the house footprint probably about 80 cm (31 inches). Positioning the house parallel to the contour line was a smart choice. According to the 11ant cellar rule (see external: "With or without a cellar: a rule as a decision-making tool"), a cellar or the equally costly measures when “renouncing” it cost around 40% of the cellar price under the cost item "caused by the plot." [ / ]
You will find how to determine the more suitable building method at the source of the above cellar rule under "Services" (keyword: decision-making). EH55 standard is no longer supported by KfW subsidies since it has largely been matched by the legal standard GEG2024. You don’t have to meet more than that, but it’s also not worth it. Save yourself the lowering of the roof, build a gable roof with a 38° pitch and install the technical equipment in the roof space; then you can significantly reduce it on the ground floor and will only have house utility entries in the utility/household room.
A bungalow builder (though with a household of several people) you will find most fitting in @motorradsilke
Newbee-BW schrieb:
But your suggestion to stick with a 38-degree roof pitch and put the equipment in the attic really stuck with me. Then there would be more space on the ground floor in the utility room or it could even be made smaller.
Would you then need to reinforce or insulate the ceiling more? (Because of noise from the equipment) Or would that also affect the insulation of the roof? I don’t see any special measures needed here; I would include the roof space anyway within the thermal envelope. @Golfi90 did it this way: 11ant schrieb:
[...] we already discussed the topic of the "heating room" in the roof with @Golfi90 https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/gedaemmten-technikraum-fuer-die-gastherme-auf-dem-dachboden-schaffe.32450/ [...] . https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
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Newbee-BW3 Dec 2024 14:12Thank you @11ant for posting your answer again. From Golfi90’s earlier posts, I understand that where the hot water tank is located in the attic, there should be a bathtub on the ground floor below. Is that correct? Or was that an inside joke?
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