ᐅ Is the quote for liquid screed and installation of fixing strips too expensive?

Buchsbaum066 schrieb:

The basement is generally not suitable for anhydrite screed. In my experience, basements are always considered damp areas. Naturally, there is more moisture there than in the upper floors. Anhydrite absorbs moisture, so problems are inevitable.

You have probably completed the drywall construction and the walls have been freshly plastered. Have you considered how much moisture you are introducing into your building? You will never get all that moisture out.

I estimate that your liquid screed contains approximately 4000 liters (1057 gallons) of water. You should understand how much that is, where it distributes, and how long it actually takes to fully dry.

If the walls have also been plastered and the masonry is still damp, it will take several months to dry. No matter what construction experts tell you. It’s no coincidence that mold problems often occur in new builds.

What type of screed would you recommend for a basement?
There will be underfloor heating installed.

OzCi1305 schrieb:

Since the basement floor is quite uneven and to ensure proper pipe coverage, the thickness varies between 35 and 80 mm (1.4 and 3.1 inches).
What alternatives do I have?

Then the height is leveled out and only a small amount of screed is applied accordingly.
I hope the foundation slab is rather too thick than too thin, so you won’t have any issues if it is, in the worst case, 50 mm (2 inches) too thin.
Is the basement a utility basement or a livable basement?

Buchsbaum066 schrieb:

Naturally, you always have more moisture there than on the upper floors.

Why? Yes for an old utility basement, but definitely not for a new build with a waterproof concrete tank (white tank).

As I said, the price is reasonable. You really won’t save much with cement screed.

So far, it was a utility basement, but it is now being converted into a living basement.

Year of construction 1963

The house stands on a strip foundation, and the floor is filled with rammed concrete.
What problems could arise regarding the thickness of the floor?

How should the floor be leveled beforehand? With leveling compound? How long would I need to wait before starting to lay the stapler panels?

OzCi1305 schrieb:

What problems could arise with the thickness of the floor?

Well, if the concrete slab was supposed to be 12cm thick but in some areas it measures only 7cm (assuming that the spots needing a lot of screed were poured too thinly), that is a defect where in new construction you would say: remove everything and redo it. The reinforcing steel must be properly embedded in the concrete.
But in an older building, you have no idea how it was built. You can’t really worry about it too much.

OzCi1305 schrieb:

So far it was a utility basement, now it’s being converted into a living basement.

So you can expect higher moisture exposure. In that case, it’s better to avoid anhydrite screed.

OzCi1305 schrieb:

How should the floor be leveled beforehand?

For example, with a (bonded) fill material. Self-leveling compound will likely blow your budget and the differences in height are too big for that anyway.

P.S. However, thin-layer systems are only available with gypsum-based binding. If height is an issue, then there are no alternatives.