Hello,
we have a newly built house and are experiencing waterlogging issues in the garden.
There is about 50 cm (20 inches) of topsoil, which already contains some clay, followed by approximately 1.5 m (5 feet) of a thick clay layer.
The clay layer only allows water to pass through very slowly, so the garden remains waterlogged for about 1-2 days. Excess water can drain away through a French drain (soakaway) as long as there is a slope, but the soil also settles unevenly.
However, waterlogging still occurs in the soil itself, especially within the top 40 cm (16 inches), which plants do not tolerate well.
We cannot loosen the clay layer even with a rotary tiller. How can we improve the soil? Would it be sufficient to spread, for example, 10 tons of river sand over approximately 180 m² (1,940 sq ft) and incorporate a soil activator by tilling it in?
What else can we do?
Would it help to plant deep-rooted plants for one year, till the soil again next year, and then finally plant the lawn?
we have a newly built house and are experiencing waterlogging issues in the garden.
There is about 50 cm (20 inches) of topsoil, which already contains some clay, followed by approximately 1.5 m (5 feet) of a thick clay layer.
The clay layer only allows water to pass through very slowly, so the garden remains waterlogged for about 1-2 days. Excess water can drain away through a French drain (soakaway) as long as there is a slope, but the soil also settles unevenly.
However, waterlogging still occurs in the soil itself, especially within the top 40 cm (16 inches), which plants do not tolerate well.
We cannot loosen the clay layer even with a rotary tiller. How can we improve the soil? Would it be sufficient to spread, for example, 10 tons of river sand over approximately 180 m² (1,940 sq ft) and incorporate a soil activator by tilling it in?
What else can we do?
Would it help to plant deep-rooted plants for one year, till the soil again next year, and then finally plant the lawn?
F
FrankChief10 Apr 2024 10:57@nordanney Last year, the lawn did not turn brown, but it also didn’t grow well due to waterlogging.
Are you familiar with drainage systems?
Our plot is about 10m (33 feet) wide and 20m (66 feet) long.
How would you set up drainage in our garden?
What spacing should the pipes have, and how would you lay them out?
The soakaway is located roughly in the middle of the rear third of the property.
Are you familiar with drainage systems?
Our plot is about 10m (33 feet) wide and 20m (66 feet) long.
How would you set up drainage in our garden?
What spacing should the pipes have, and how would you lay them out?
The soakaway is located roughly in the middle of the rear third of the property.
N
nordanney10 Apr 2024 11:24FrankChief schrieb:
Are you familiar with drainage? Only theoretically...
I have never dealt with this topic myself during my own projects. I have sometimes broken through a clay layer (already during the construction phase) – but otherwise never for the garden.
FrankChief schrieb:
The infiltration trench is located roughly in the middle of the rear third of our property. In my opinion, the rainwater directed through the clay layer should already be flowing into the infiltration trench. Or is it simply too small for your property?
S
Schorsch_baut10 Apr 2024 11:52Is the problem really the clay, or is the soil still heavily compacted from the construction work?
And do you want just lawn or also flower beds?
We have very clayey soil, and from about 40-60 cm (16-24 inches) deep, there is even clay in some places. Most plants, however, do not root that deeply, so it usually isn’t an issue. Fruit trees and bushes do well in the soil, as do flowering shrubs and flowers. In winter, the soil gets very wet and doesn’t dry out well, but this mostly resolves in spring. Most plants grow extremely well, withstand longer dry periods and harsher frosts—especially where the soil structure in the top layer is right. We have added a lot of humus and compost and mulch all beds with grass clippings and leaves, which loosens the soil deeply and saves me trips to the recycling center. Coarse sand is added so water doesn’t pool even in winter. The lawn, however, is more like a closely mowed meadow—great for playing but unsuitable for golf.
And do you want just lawn or also flower beds?
We have very clayey soil, and from about 40-60 cm (16-24 inches) deep, there is even clay in some places. Most plants, however, do not root that deeply, so it usually isn’t an issue. Fruit trees and bushes do well in the soil, as do flowering shrubs and flowers. In winter, the soil gets very wet and doesn’t dry out well, but this mostly resolves in spring. Most plants grow extremely well, withstand longer dry periods and harsher frosts—especially where the soil structure in the top layer is right. We have added a lot of humus and compost and mulch all beds with grass clippings and leaves, which loosens the soil deeply and saves me trips to the recycling center. Coarse sand is added so water doesn’t pool even in winter. The lawn, however, is more like a closely mowed meadow—great for playing but unsuitable for golf.
FrankChief schrieb:
How would you set up the drainage in our garden?Given the size of your garden, a perimeter drain seems practical. Place it 0-1m (0-3 feet) from the fence, about 1m (3 feet) deep, with vertical inspection shafts in one or two corners equipped with a submersible pump.
This should help keep your garden drier.
This is how our ancestors drained entire areas of land, of course using ditches.
F
FrankChief10 Apr 2024 13:03We also suspect that the clay or the deeper soil layers have become somewhat compacted due to the construction work.
The infiltration trench is large enough and has never overflowed. The problem is that the topsoil acts like a sponge, full of water, and the water barely percolates downward.
When drilling the holes, it was wet near the surface, but after going about 5cm (2 inches) into the clay, it was dry. However, the holes have only a limited effect, and disposing of the clay is not easy.
@Nida35a
We want to create flower beds on both sides along the fence, with lawn in the middle.
Would you recommend installing drainage pipes only around the perimeter and leaving the middle without any?
I’m not experienced with this, but my first thought was that we’d need drainage pipes spaced about 1m to 1.5m (3 to 5 feet) apart. But that might be way too much, right?
The infiltration trench is large enough and has never overflowed. The problem is that the topsoil acts like a sponge, full of water, and the water barely percolates downward.
When drilling the holes, it was wet near the surface, but after going about 5cm (2 inches) into the clay, it was dry. However, the holes have only a limited effect, and disposing of the clay is not easy.
@Nida35a
We want to create flower beds on both sides along the fence, with lawn in the middle.
Would you recommend installing drainage pipes only around the perimeter and leaving the middle without any?
I’m not experienced with this, but my first thought was that we’d need drainage pipes spaced about 1m to 1.5m (3 to 5 feet) apart. But that might be way too much, right?
Take it slow for now.
At the moment, and for the past few months, everything is quite wet and muddy.
Where you want to plant perennials, dig the planting hole larger and first fill it with some sand.
Have you tried deep-rooted foundations? You probably have compacted soil just below your topsoil.
What have you implemented from the suggestions given to you last year in the other forum?
At the moment, and for the past few months, everything is quite wet and muddy.
Where you want to plant perennials, dig the planting hole larger and first fill it with some sand.
Have you tried deep-rooted foundations? You probably have compacted soil just below your topsoil.
What have you implemented from the suggestions given to you last year in the other forum?
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