ᐅ Heat pumps consume a significant amount of energy and can generate considerable noise.
Created on: 17 Jan 2024 18:26
E
Eldirwars
Hello everyone,
We have been living in our new house for one month now and are experiencing significant noise issues. The noise comes from the manifold of the underfloor heating system as well as the pump itself, which is very loud. The sounds are mostly sharp clicking or ticking noises, especially noticeable in the bedroom. The flow rate and the pump settings have been adjusted, but nothing has improved. However, it is always quiet in the early morning hours. Could it possibly be due to a setting on the unit? The heating technician has already been here but is unsure of the cause. Another technician from Bosch is scheduled to come and take a look, but I’m not sure if the pump is the problem. Also, the house is barely warming up at the current temperatures, and I am using more than 30 kWh daily, which seems very high for a 150 m² (1,615 sq ft) home.
We have been living in our new house for one month now and are experiencing significant noise issues. The noise comes from the manifold of the underfloor heating system as well as the pump itself, which is very loud. The sounds are mostly sharp clicking or ticking noises, especially noticeable in the bedroom. The flow rate and the pump settings have been adjusted, but nothing has improved. However, it is always quiet in the early morning hours. Could it possibly be due to a setting on the unit? The heating technician has already been here but is unsure of the cause. Another technician from Bosch is scheduled to come and take a look, but I’m not sure if the pump is the problem. Also, the house is barely warming up at the current temperatures, and I am using more than 30 kWh daily, which seems very high for a 150 m² (1,615 sq ft) home.
KingJulien18 Jan 2024 08:43We also had the whistling heating circuit valve (HKV), as handed over by the general contractor. This is caused by severely throttled circuits. High flow speeds occur, which cause the whistling.
So, fully open everything (at the sight glasses AND under the ERR caps), close any existing bypass valve, and always keep all ERR valves fully open or remove them entirely.
Then perform the balancing. It sounds more complicated than it actually is.
So, fully open everything (at the sight glasses AND under the ERR caps), close any existing bypass valve, and always keep all ERR valves fully open or remove them entirely.
Then perform the balancing. It sounds more complicated than it actually is.
J
jens.knoedel18 Jan 2024 09:03Eldirwars schrieb:
Only 80 sqm (860 sq ft) of living space is heated, set to 21 degrees. The rest is set to 15 degrees.In new buildings, always heat all rooms evenly.P.S. It is a misconception that you are only heating 80 sqm (860 sq ft). By heating just 80 sqm (860 sq ft), you are effectively heating the whole house. It’s like a refrigerator—you can’t say you are not cooling the middle shelf.
And by doing this, you have disrupted the heating system’s settings, causing the problem you described.
N
NewHouseAppear18 Jan 2024 09:17jens.knoedel schrieb:
In new buildings, always heat all rooms evenly.
P.S. It’s a misconception that you are only heating 80 m² (860 sq ft). With 80 m² (860 sq ft) of heating surface, you are effectively heating the entire house. It’s like a refrigerator—you can’t say you’re not cooling the middle shelf.
And by doing this, you have disrupted the heating system settings, which is the problem you described.A question regarding this: we also have a heat pump with underfloor heating in a new build with a basement, where there is a relatively large living area that can also be heated, while the rest of the basement is not heated.
As you suggest, we have all heating circuits fully turned on and regulate through the slope and heating curve directly on the heat pump. The temperature in the house is fine. However, I wonder if it still makes sense to heat the large basement room (where we hardly spend time) or if we can confidently turn it down without encountering the problem you mentioned.
Are there general guidelines or best practices on this?
J
jens.knoedel18 Jan 2024 09:34NewHouseAppear schrieb:
Are there any generally valid answers for this? Actually, there aren’t.
There are many relevant factors: Is the basement fully insulated (I assume so)? What kind and how much insulation is below the underfloor heating on the ground floor? How is the basement connected to the ground floor? And so on.
But since you are only dealing with one room, just try turning the heat off completely in that room and see what happens. It may be that you need to make slight overall adjustments afterward.
E
Eldirwars18 Jan 2024 09:44RotorMotor schrieb:
This is definitely a problem.
A heat pump especially depends on heating surface area.
If you turn off half of the heating circuits, the entire house has to be heated by the remaining circuits.
That means flow rate and supply temperature must increase significantly to compensate for the other rooms.
You have to keep in mind that usually houses are insulated only on the outside, not between rooms.
So it’s okay to lower the temperature in, for example, the bedroom by 2 or 3 degrees, but please don’t turn down the temperature by 6 degrees in half of the house.
Start with normal settings, check if the problem is solved, and then report back, please. Why do the other rooms need to be compensated for? The hydraulic balancing was done, and the flow rate was adjusted again by the heating engineer yesterday. If I leave the thermostat in unused rooms at 15°C (59°F), doesn’t that mean the room won’t heat up? Many others I’ve spoken to say they don’t hear anything from their manifold at all. The noise is better in the morning or at night. It’s always strongest in the evening, which surprises me a lot.
E
Eldirwars18 Jan 2024 09:51KingJulien schrieb:
We also had the whistling heating circuit valve, as handed over by the general contractor. That happens when the circuits are significantly throttled. You get high flow velocities, which causes the whistling.
So, open everything fully (both at the sight glasses AND under the ERR caps), close any existing bypass valve, and always keep all ERRs fully open or remove them entirely.
Then perform the balancing. It sounds more complicated than it really is. Am I supposed to open each valve to the maximum flow rate and let the full amount pass through each room? Wouldn’t that increase consumption? I need to look up what these ERR caps are and possibly adjust them, along with the bypass valve.
The thing is, when I stand in front of the control box and open different valves, it always gets louder depending on how far I open each one. Having all valves fully open would mean it would be extremely loud.
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