ᐅ Heat pump is not compatible with a hydronic (water-heated) fireplace.
Created on: 20 Oct 2023 18:54
J
Jessica388
Hello everyone,
I hope someone here can help us because our heating engineer doesn’t seem to be able to…
Key data
New build 2022 with 250 m² (2,691 ft²)
Heat pump Viessmann Vitocal 200-A
Multifunction storage tank MFS1000S
Water-heated stove with heating capacity on the water side of 8 kW
Photovoltaic system
Electric heating element
I am attaching the schematic of the storage tank layout.
The stove was initially connected under “old” and now it has been modified.
Everything works fine as long as the underfloor heating is off.
When the underfloor heating is on, our hot water temperature doesn’t exceed about 55°C (131°F).
When the underfloor heating is off, the temperature ranges between 65–75°C (149–167°F), either via the electric heating element during sunshine or by stoking the stove.
Now, however, this energy seems to be wasted. It can’t be that the underfloor heating requires 70°C (158°F) supply temperature to achieve a flow temperature of 35°C (95°F), right? The return water is only slightly cooler. So the water should only need to be heated by a maximum of 5°C (9°F).
We assume either a) something is still connected incorrectly, or b) the cold water from the underfloor heating causes such circulation that the hot water cools down within minutes.
What can be done about this?
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
Normally, we should almost run without electric power, but currently the heat pump switches on almost every hour to heat hot water…
I hope someone here can help us because our heating engineer doesn’t seem to be able to…
Key data
New build 2022 with 250 m² (2,691 ft²)
Heat pump Viessmann Vitocal 200-A
Multifunction storage tank MFS1000S
Water-heated stove with heating capacity on the water side of 8 kW
Photovoltaic system
Electric heating element
I am attaching the schematic of the storage tank layout.
The stove was initially connected under “old” and now it has been modified.
Everything works fine as long as the underfloor heating is off.
When the underfloor heating is on, our hot water temperature doesn’t exceed about 55°C (131°F).
When the underfloor heating is off, the temperature ranges between 65–75°C (149–167°F), either via the electric heating element during sunshine or by stoking the stove.
Now, however, this energy seems to be wasted. It can’t be that the underfloor heating requires 70°C (158°F) supply temperature to achieve a flow temperature of 35°C (95°F), right? The return water is only slightly cooler. So the water should only need to be heated by a maximum of 5°C (9°F).
We assume either a) something is still connected incorrectly, or b) the cold water from the underfloor heating causes such circulation that the hot water cools down within minutes.
What can be done about this?
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
Normally, we should almost run without electric power, but currently the heat pump switches on almost every hour to heat hot water…
H
HeimatBauer26 Oct 2023 08:27Talking about efficiency and then constantly ventilating by opening windows. That’s exactly my sense of humor.
R
Radfahrer26 Oct 2023 08:40I have to admit, we used to air the rooms the same way, or just open the windows when it got too warm.
Nowadays, we ventilate at least somewhat properly, and the consequence is double the heating costs.
Nowadays, we ventilate at least somewhat properly, and the consequence is double the heating costs.
H
HeimatBauer26 Oct 2023 08:49Yes, that’s exactly how my landlord in Singapore explained it to me: If you feel too cold because the air conditioning is running at maximum all the time, just keep the sliding window slightly open.
J
Jessica38826 Oct 2023 08:59HeimatBauer schrieb:
Talking about efficiency and then constantly ventilating through the windows. Exactly my kind of humor. Should I just let my food spoil? Sorry, but we don’t have a basement. Feel free to tell me how I can do it better or correctly.
Jessica388 schrieb:
And how do you disable the ERR? Because in the storage rooms I don’t need any heating at all (the window is always open there anyway), and normally not in the bedrooms either. To disable the ERR: open the heating manifold (usually a visible white panel on the outside, recessed into the wall surface or flush mounted). You can easily remove the actuators on the heating circuits you no longer want to control via the ERR. Press the two tabs on the sides at the top with your thumb and forefinger; they will usually pop off because the valve pushes them out. You can replace them with a manual valve handle or control cap for the heating manifold to adjust the flow manually. These caps are available at plumbing supply stores for about 3-5 Euros.
You can unscrew the actuator cables from the control panel, and if you need them again later, you can reinstall them.
But basically, it doesn’t matter as long as you keep a window permanently open in one or more rooms. Then close the heating loop for that room instead of leaving the window open all the time.
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WilderSueden26 Oct 2023 09:25Jessica388 schrieb:
Should I just let my food go bad? Sorry, but we don’t have a basement. Feel free to tell me how I can do it better or the right way. Most food is quite resilient. For perishable items, only buy what you will use within a short time. And for the pantry, simply turn off the heating. Some items might need to be stored in the refrigerator.
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