ᐅ Heat pump is not compatible with a hydronic (water-heated) fireplace.
Created on: 20 Oct 2023 18:54
J
Jessica388
Hello everyone,
I hope someone here can help us because our heating engineer doesn’t seem to be able to…
Key data
New build 2022 with 250 m² (2,691 ft²)
Heat pump Viessmann Vitocal 200-A
Multifunction storage tank MFS1000S
Water-heated stove with heating capacity on the water side of 8 kW
Photovoltaic system
Electric heating element
I am attaching the schematic of the storage tank layout.
The stove was initially connected under “old” and now it has been modified.
Everything works fine as long as the underfloor heating is off.
When the underfloor heating is on, our hot water temperature doesn’t exceed about 55°C (131°F).
When the underfloor heating is off, the temperature ranges between 65–75°C (149–167°F), either via the electric heating element during sunshine or by stoking the stove.
Now, however, this energy seems to be wasted. It can’t be that the underfloor heating requires 70°C (158°F) supply temperature to achieve a flow temperature of 35°C (95°F), right? The return water is only slightly cooler. So the water should only need to be heated by a maximum of 5°C (9°F).
We assume either a) something is still connected incorrectly, or b) the cold water from the underfloor heating causes such circulation that the hot water cools down within minutes.
What can be done about this?
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
Normally, we should almost run without electric power, but currently the heat pump switches on almost every hour to heat hot water…
I hope someone here can help us because our heating engineer doesn’t seem to be able to…
Key data
New build 2022 with 250 m² (2,691 ft²)
Heat pump Viessmann Vitocal 200-A
Multifunction storage tank MFS1000S
Water-heated stove with heating capacity on the water side of 8 kW
Photovoltaic system
Electric heating element
I am attaching the schematic of the storage tank layout.
The stove was initially connected under “old” and now it has been modified.
Everything works fine as long as the underfloor heating is off.
When the underfloor heating is on, our hot water temperature doesn’t exceed about 55°C (131°F).
When the underfloor heating is off, the temperature ranges between 65–75°C (149–167°F), either via the electric heating element during sunshine or by stoking the stove.
Now, however, this energy seems to be wasted. It can’t be that the underfloor heating requires 70°C (158°F) supply temperature to achieve a flow temperature of 35°C (95°F), right? The return water is only slightly cooler. So the water should only need to be heated by a maximum of 5°C (9°F).
We assume either a) something is still connected incorrectly, or b) the cold water from the underfloor heating causes such circulation that the hot water cools down within minutes.
What can be done about this?
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
Normally, we should almost run without electric power, but currently the heat pump switches on almost every hour to heat hot water…
J
Jessica38821 Oct 2023 10:12RotorMotor schrieb:
Oh, you could actually scroll further in the datasheet, and there is indeed an A16 model that you apparently have.
With that unit, you could easily heat a multi-family house!
It probably uses a lot of electricity and cycles frequently, but that would be the next challenge after you have the power consumption somewhat under control.
How do you measure the electricity consumption anyway?
Where does the 65 kWh consumption figure come from?
And yes, 28°C (82°F) would also be expensive with wood chip or gas heating.
That has nothing to do with heat pumps.
But as I said, focus on the basics first if you can’t find a heating professional:
Turn on the electric heating element only at freezing temperatures, both for heating and hot water.
Set a reasonably sensible heating curve according to the instructions.
Set all room thermostats to reasonable values; maybe 2°C (36°F) lower in bedrooms, and 3°C (37°F) or 4°C (39°F) in other rooms depending on desired temperature.
Turn the bathroom thermostat fully up.
Then adjust the flow rates at the manifold boxes, but maybe that can wait until later. Because we have photovoltaics, we use an app that "monitors" the electricity. The consumption data comes from there, and I can clearly see when the heating turns on...
Jessica388 schrieb:
I'm also confused by everything, so that fits!
I just looked at these settings on the heating system:
Target room temperature 19 degrees, reduced 17
Heating curve
Slope 0.8
Shift 0 K
Flow temperature 27 degrees
Our heating technician comes about once a week and "experiments"… connects things differently, etc. All without success.
The thermostats are turned down because the rooms are reaching an "excessive" 20 degrees, which is enough. The doors are always open. Only in the bathroom do I want it warmer, so it's turned up there. And are you sure about the electricity consumption? Where did you see or measure that?
We have a similar system (Vitocal 200-S), a similar living area (but no fireplace and a different buffer tank), and at these temperatures, ours doesn’t use nearly that much electricity. Our flow temperature is even a bit higher than 27°, we use a slope of 0.5 and also a 0 K shift. Our target temperature is set to 20, reduced also to 20, but we don’t do any nighttime setback or similar. We might need to adjust that if we are away for longer, but right now everything is set to the same target temperature.
Edit: The slope is 0.5, not 1. XD
J
Jessica38821 Oct 2023 10:15Mycraft schrieb:
Nice! And I struggle every time with my 0.4 and think that’s too much.
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Forget the idea that the heat pump heats individual rooms separately.
Think of your entire house with all the rooms as one large water circuit.
Each room has an access point that can be regulated to control how much water flows through and at what rate.
The entire circuit is heated to a set temperature.
To bring a room to the desired temperature, you need to allow a certain amount of water into that room depending on its size.
If all rooms are the same size, this isn’t a problem—you just let the same amount of water flow everywhere.
But rooms always vary in size, so you have to allow the right amount of water for each room.
You control this through the access point (manifold of the underfloor heating, where you can adjust the flow rate).
Unfortunately, some rooms cannot take in enough water to reach the desired temperature (usually bathrooms because they are small and require higher temperatures).
Now you can either create space for more water (by reducing pipe spacing or using wall heating) or increase the temperature of the water.
Raising the temperature (this is the well-known flow temperature) does provide the desired warmth in the bathroom, but the other rooms will also get warmer.
So here you need to reduce the amount of water until you reach your desired temperature.
This process is called hydraulic balancing.
The problem arises at low outdoor temperatures when the heat output is no longer sufficient.
You might want to increase the amount of water flowing into each room, but then you have to re-balance everything precisely, and you’re still limited by smaller rooms that can't take more water.
However, our heating system knows from the outdoor sensor that the outside temperature is dropping.
So it increases the flow temperature to compensate.
Because all rooms were previously balanced correctly during hydraulic balancing, this works as intended.
This is the heating curve of the system, which defines how much the flow temperature needs to be adjusted in relation to changes in outdoor temperature.
This is of course a simplified explanation, but it illustrates the basic function. Thanks, I understood everything.
You seem to know your stuff? Can we “book” you? We’re from 96472 Rödental…
Jessica388 schrieb:
Since we have photovoltaic panels, we use an app that "monitors" the electricity. The consumption data comes from there, and I can clearly see when the heating turns on... 😳 😳 😳
We had a curve like that yesterday when the plasterers covered our outdoor unit with plastic wrap and forgot to remove it.
Edit: The question is what your heating system is doing if it switches on every two hours like clockwork.
Our system currently only reaches such high values when it’s heating domestic hot water—but definitely not every two hours.
I don’t think that’s the underfloor heating; it’s probably your domestic hot water system?
R
RotorMotor21 Oct 2023 10:24Jessica388 schrieb:
Since we have the photovoltaic system, we have an app that "monitors" the electricity. It provides the consumption data, and I can clearly see when the heating turns on…That’s just household electricity consumption. Or where exactly do you see what the heat pump is using?
The heat pump has peaks repeatedly, which is also called short cycling.
It simply can’t get rid of the heat because 90% of the rooms have their valves nearly closed.
Lower the heating curve to 0.4 and open the room thermostats, then we’ll talk again in a month. ;-)
J
Jessica38821 Oct 2023 10:25kati1337 schrieb:
😳 😳 😳
We had a situation like that yesterday—the plasterers had covered our outdoor unit with plastic sheeting and forgot to remove it.
Edit: The question is, what is your heating system doing when it switches on every two hours like crazy?
Our system currently only reaches such high values when it is producing hot water. But not every two hours.
I don’t think it’s the underfloor heating; it’s probably your domestic hot water?Yes, that's exactly what we're wondering too! At night, there’s no demand for hot water...
And according to your predecessor, the domestic hot water is used for the underfloor heating. So whatever it needs it for, it definitely switches on frequently—and quite heavily.
Our heating technician explained to us that even if the hot water temperature is set to 65°C (149°F), the heat pump can still start up to heat the water for the underfloor heating because the temperature is measured elsewhere. Sorry, but none of this makes sense to me.
That’s why I’m asking here for help.
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