Hello everyone,
We have been living in our new home with a central ventilation system for just over a year now and are very satisfied so far.
The only issue is the temperature in the attic bedroom (north-east side) in the evening, which is not very comfortable. The room is not even facing south, yet the temperature reaches about 23°C (73°F) in the evening, even though we open the windows wide in the morning to ventilate with cool air and then close the curtains completely.
I suspect that the ventilation system continuously blows warm air from outside (logically) into the bedroom, causing the warm air to accumulate there.
How do you handle this? Is there anything specific to consider?
My ventilation system has been running at level 2 for several months now because I felt the air in the room was fresher, especially during winter. Maybe I could lower it again during summer?
Is there anything else that can be adjusted to improve the situation? Or is the only option to open everything wide for half an hour before going to bed to ventilate again?
I appreciate any advice, tips, or tricks.
We have been living in our new home with a central ventilation system for just over a year now and are very satisfied so far.
The only issue is the temperature in the attic bedroom (north-east side) in the evening, which is not very comfortable. The room is not even facing south, yet the temperature reaches about 23°C (73°F) in the evening, even though we open the windows wide in the morning to ventilate with cool air and then close the curtains completely.
I suspect that the ventilation system continuously blows warm air from outside (logically) into the bedroom, causing the warm air to accumulate there.
How do you handle this? Is there anything specific to consider?
My ventilation system has been running at level 2 for several months now because I felt the air in the room was fresher, especially during winter. Maybe I could lower it again during summer?
Is there anything else that can be adjusted to improve the situation? Or is the only option to open everything wide for half an hour before going to bed to ventilate again?
I appreciate any advice, tips, or tricks.
X
xMisterDx15 Jun 2023 16:58And I’m destroying the environment with my gas heating... yeah, right.
R
RotorMotor15 Jun 2023 17:02xMisterDx schrieb:
And I’m destroying the environment with my gas heating... yeah, rightThat is correct.I only cool using photovoltaic electricity.
Since I have a KfW40+ house, I am affected by the 60% power reduction.
This means I can use the remaining 40% for free, or it is not generated at all.
H
HeimatBauer15 Jun 2023 17:26Any combustion for heating (whether oil, gas, or wood) in new residential construction is absolutely illogical and definitely causes disproportionate environmental damage. This has nothing to do with air conditioning.
As I mentioned above, I take pure photovoltaic operation even a step further by actively controlling the heat pump based on the weather forecast, photovoltaic power storage, and photovoltaic power forecast.
By the way: With seasonal storage systems, cooling in summer is highly recommended. Unfortunately, it is very common for people to think they save electricity by turning off the air conditioning in summer. Well, then the solar thermal system does not produce enough, the storage is much too cold in autumn, and in winter the electric heating element runs continuously.
As I mentioned above, I take pure photovoltaic operation even a step further by actively controlling the heat pump based on the weather forecast, photovoltaic power storage, and photovoltaic power forecast.
By the way: With seasonal storage systems, cooling in summer is highly recommended. Unfortunately, it is very common for people to think they save electricity by turning off the air conditioning in summer. Well, then the solar thermal system does not produce enough, the storage is much too cold in autumn, and in winter the electric heating element runs continuously.
H
HoisleBauer2215 Jun 2023 18:55RotorMotor schrieb:
Technically, all heat pumps should be capable of cooling, since they also need to defrost. Unfortunately, not all manufacturers implement this feature, or they charge extra licensing fees.
The control system is usually the more problematic aspect. Could you please explain that in more detail? For example, I am getting a Daikin Altherma 3, but how does it apply there?
H
HeimatBauer15 Jun 2023 19:28On the 3M, I see "Heating and Cooling." But of course, it also needs to be installed accordingly. So, you need the control unit, the additional sensor for condensation, and the cooling-capable room thermostats. It also has to be set up and programmed—and that is not exactly straightforward. In my case, the manufacturer’s technician has already come on site three times because the switch between summer and winter operation did not work automatically.
Cooling or maximum thermal buffering through the floor has many disadvantages. Cold feet, cold air stays at the bottom, dew point issues, no dehumidification, and so on.
A proper air conditioning system is better. It’s easier to control, provides dehumidification, cools evenly, and is more powerful.
A normally sized mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery is not suitable for effective cooling. It needs to be significantly larger in size.
Chilled water unit or refrigeration machine with buffer tank. This is rather uncommon in single-family homes. We have such a system. The waste heat is directed into the pool.
A proper air conditioning system is better. It’s easier to control, provides dehumidification, cools evenly, and is more powerful.
A normally sized mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery is not suitable for effective cooling. It needs to be significantly larger in size.
Chilled water unit or refrigeration machine with buffer tank. This is rather uncommon in single-family homes. We have such a system. The waste heat is directed into the pool.
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