Hello everyone
First of all:
We have the inspector's permission to install the cables, and that was the question that concerns us and is currently unresolved!
I am an electrician/electronics technician, but I come from the industrial sector. Therefore, I am not familiar with the relevant residential building regulations. The inspector is sick and unreachable, but time is pressing...
House wiring (new construction / prefabricated construction / timber frame).
What is currently considered the "state of the art"? We plan to separate the outlets and lighting circuits.
Supply line for outlets: NYM 2.5mm² (5 AWG). For larger rooms, is it more practical to have two branch circuits, for example in a living room with about 10 outlets?
And generally, is it allowed to connect all 10 outlets in parallel on one supply line, or is a distribution box required on site? We want to avoid a distribution box if possible.
Background: we want to install the cables over Christmas and the days following. The inspector is currently sick and unreachable...
We have the inspector's permission to lay the cables, and this is the question that worries us and is still open!
As mentioned, I am an electrician/electronics technician from the industrial sector, so the applicable standards in house wiring are unfamiliar to me.
Good luck
dettec61
First of all:
We have the inspector's permission to install the cables, and that was the question that concerns us and is currently unresolved!
I am an electrician/electronics technician, but I come from the industrial sector. Therefore, I am not familiar with the relevant residential building regulations. The inspector is sick and unreachable, but time is pressing...
House wiring (new construction / prefabricated construction / timber frame).
What is currently considered the "state of the art"? We plan to separate the outlets and lighting circuits.
Supply line for outlets: NYM 2.5mm² (5 AWG). For larger rooms, is it more practical to have two branch circuits, for example in a living room with about 10 outlets?
And generally, is it allowed to connect all 10 outlets in parallel on one supply line, or is a distribution box required on site? We want to avoid a distribution box if possible.
Background: we want to install the cables over Christmas and the days following. The inspector is currently sick and unreachable...
We have the inspector's permission to lay the cables, and this is the question that worries us and is still open!
As mentioned, I am an electrician/electronics technician from the industrial sector, so the applicable standards in house wiring are unfamiliar to me.
Good luck
dettec61
R
RotorMotor27 Dec 2022 11:55i_b_n_a_n schrieb:
1.5mm² (1.5 sq mm) wiring for sockets, 2.5mm² (2.5 sq mm) for appliances in the kitchen like stove, oven, refrigerator, etc. The oven, refrigerator, and so on are just plugged into the socket as well. The refrigerator actually uses very little power! In my case, everything is protected with 1.5mm² (1.5 sq mm) wiring and a 16A breaker. However, it’s embedded in the wall and located right next to the distribution board, so the cable runs are very short.
RotorMotor schrieb:
Oven, kitchen cabinet appliances, and so on simply plug into the socket.
The refrigerator also uses very little power!
At my place, everything is protected with 1.5mm² wiring and 16A breakers.
However, the wiring is embedded in the plaster and located right next to the distribution board, so the runs are very short. Well, nobody really knows exactly what each person operates at home.
If you are a fan of nostalgic stoves/ovens, the power demand can quickly add up to over 3kW (1.6kW oven, 1.6kW stove). Of course, it’s rather rare that all 4 or 6 hotplates and the oven are used simultaneously, but I like to use 2.5mm² wiring for these kitchen appliances.
Open-plan kitchens often also have appliances like fondue sets, deep fryers, and so on. Coffee machines and kettles should not be overlooked either. That’s why I provide multiple spur circuits for sockets. Who knows what will be plugged in tomorrow?
And the costs are really quite reasonable…
R
RotorMotor27 Dec 2022 12:28dettec61 schrieb:
Well, no one really knows exactly what each household will connect. That is basically correct.
Of course, circuit breakers should never be sized based on the appliance but rather on the wiring (including length and installation method).
I just wanted to point out that it doesn’t make sense to use 1.5mm² (5 inches²) wiring everywhere except for the refrigerator, where suddenly 2.5mm² (8 inches²) is used.
dettec61 schrieb:
If you are a fan of nostalgic stoves/ovens, their power can quickly add up to over 3kW (1.6kW oven, 1.6kW stove).
Of course, it’s rare that all 4 or 6 burners plus the oven are heating simultaneously, but I personally like to install 2.5mm² (8 inches²) wiring in the kitchen for these appliances. My oven alone already has 3600W and it’s not even nostalgic. 😉
dettec61 schrieb:
Open-plan kitchens often have a fondue set, deep fryer, etc., plus a coffee machine and a kettle. And do you really have all of those running at the same time?
If everything is installed according to regulations, the breaker will trip if you try to run too many appliances simultaneously.
But with a fondue set or deep fryer, that’s quite unlikely to happen. 😉
We did this at our place because later no one would remember if, after a kitchen renovation, the refrigerator ended up plugged into the oven socket ;-)
We have extremely short distances from the distribution board to the appliances, so the cost aspect is negligible.
By the way, our electric fondue is rated at 1100 watts, and the raclette at 1400 watts. Still, the RCD tripped on Christmas Eve because the former was faulty. Fortunately, a spare was available next door :p
We have extremely short distances from the distribution board to the appliances, so the cost aspect is negligible.
By the way, our electric fondue is rated at 1100 watts, and the raclette at 1400 watts. Still, the RCD tripped on Christmas Eve because the former was faulty. Fortunately, a spare was available next door :p
RotorMotor schrieb:
My oven alone already uses 3600W and it’s not even vintage. 😉Well, it doesn’t have to be vintage, that’s why I wrote that no one really knows who will be operating what exactly. That’s why 2.5mm² (about 13 AWG).Of course, not the refrigerator – that’s obvious.
RotorMotor schrieb:
And do you really have all of that running at the same time?
If everything is installed according to code, the circuit breaker will trip if you try to run too much simultaneously.
But with a fondue or deep fryer, you probably won’t manage that anyway. 😉Well, if the breaker trips, you haven’t gained anything because you do want to use the appliances. That’s why, again, 2.5mm² (about 13 AWG).An air fryer can easily draw 2kW, a fondue pot around 1.4–1.5kW... and there are surely even more power-hungry models out there, just like your oven.
Anyway....
R
RotorMotor27 Dec 2022 12:51Anyone can oversize pipes as they please. You just need to distinguish between fun, practical sense, and regulations. Although, actually, you don’t have to worry about that because there are professionals for this.
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