ᐅ Enthalpy Heat Exchanger for Central Controlled Residential Ventilation
Created on: 14 Nov 2022 11:01
P
Prager91
Hello everyone,
We have a central mechanical ventilation system from Tecalor (THZ 180/280) with, according to our heating technician, an enthalpy heat exchanger installed.
In winter, we now notice that the indoor humidity in the living area averages around 40%, which is relatively low—but not uncommon during winter.
Nevertheless, we specifically had an enthalpy heat exchanger installed to prevent this. My question is: How can I tell if the enthalpy heat exchanger is actually installed?
In my operating manual, there is a guide for replacing the “heat exchanger.” Is this usually an enthalpy heat exchanger, or can it also be a “standard” heat exchanger? How can I distinguish between the two?
I just want to be sure whether it has actually been installed (I have a few slight doubts due to past experiences with my heating technician 😀).
And now the question: Is this level of indoor humidity in winter normal despite having a mechanical ventilation system with an enthalpy heat exchanger, or should the humidity be significantly higher under these conditions?
We have a central mechanical ventilation system from Tecalor (THZ 180/280) with, according to our heating technician, an enthalpy heat exchanger installed.
In winter, we now notice that the indoor humidity in the living area averages around 40%, which is relatively low—but not uncommon during winter.
Nevertheless, we specifically had an enthalpy heat exchanger installed to prevent this. My question is: How can I tell if the enthalpy heat exchanger is actually installed?
In my operating manual, there is a guide for replacing the “heat exchanger.” Is this usually an enthalpy heat exchanger, or can it also be a “standard” heat exchanger? How can I distinguish between the two?
I just want to be sure whether it has actually been installed (I have a few slight doubts due to past experiences with my heating technician 😀).
And now the question: Is this level of indoor humidity in winter normal despite having a mechanical ventilation system with an enthalpy heat exchanger, or should the humidity be significantly higher under these conditions?
halmi schrieb:
In general, an enthalpy heat exchanger doesn’t create humidity; it simply reduces the amount of air exhausted or returns it to the supply air.
A family of four or five that washes, showers, baths, cooks, etc., will have different values than a couple household with two full-time working adults.That may be true – nevertheless, I believe this component will at least improve my indoor humidity somewhat. So now I’m waiting for your installation and hope for a future humidity level above 40%. 🙂
halmi schrieb:
As a family of four, we are at about 45° as a rough number. We also retrofitted the enthalpy exchanger; before, without it, we were below 30°.What other settings do you usually use on your ventilation system?
Basically level 1 or 2, depending on what is needed.
And the bypass, which I activate for summer (or with automatic summer detection). It is controlled by the outside temperature.
In winter, I set the temperature slightly higher (around 23°C (73°F)) and in summer around 18°C (64°F), when the bypass is then activated.
Otherwise, I haven’t found any other settings to consider or adjust seasonally.
The system runs 365 days a year for us at level 2 with a capacity of 205m³/h (120 CFM). You can forget about the bypass; it’s completely irrelevant in winter since the exhaust air will never be warmer than the outside air. The comfort temperature is set to 20°C (68°F) by default.
When the equipment is new, people like to fiddle with it 🙂
When the equipment is new, people like to fiddle with it 🙂
halmi schrieb:
Our system runs 365 days a year at level 2 with an output of 205m³/h (120 CFM). You can forget about the bypass; it’s completely irrelevant in winter since the exhaust air will never be warmer than the outside air. The comfort temperature is set to 20°C (68°F) by default.
When the system is new, it’s tempting to tinker with it 🙂 The bypass is mostly intended for summer, right? I don’t see any benefits in winter either, which is why I increase the temperature setting then – so the bypass won’t activate anyway.
Yes, I always like to read up on these topics to see if there’s any way to optimize things 😀 The ventilation system is technically simpler than the heating system – that one can really be a science on its own…
But okay, I guess I can safely put the ventilation topic aside for now and just let the system “do its job” 😀
Yes, the bypass is for the summer. It allows cooler air to be brought into the house at night if needed.
I experimented with the volume settings myself; initially, they were much higher, around 200m³ (7,060 ft³). Now during the day, I use 150m³ (5,295 ft³), and at night 90m³ (3,180 ft³), and the air still feels sufficiently fresh.
Lower volume saves electricity and results in higher humidity levels.
I experimented with the volume settings myself; initially, they were much higher, around 200m³ (7,060 ft³). Now during the day, I use 150m³ (5,295 ft³), and at night 90m³ (3,180 ft³), and the air still feels sufficiently fresh.
Lower volume saves electricity and results in higher humidity levels.
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