Hello everyone,
We have decided to install a pool and want an automatic water refill system as well. This means we need water supply in our outdoor storage area, where the pool equipment and irrigation control will be located. Of course, we didn’t consider this during planning and construction, as the desire for a pool and automatic irrigation came much later. Anyway.
The outdoor storage is part of the house but is outside the thermal envelope and has no direct access from the house. Now the question is how to get the water connection into the outdoor storage. We would definitely install a backflow preventer. There are basically two options:
1) The pool installer suggested running an additional cold water line from the utility room on the opposite side of the house into the outdoor storage. We could tap off from there. However, this would require a core drill through the concrete wall and insulation, which I would prefer to avoid. The pool installer says this would pose no problem if the drill hole is properly foamed/sealed afterwards. So neither thermal nor sound insulation should be affected, especially since the outdoor storage already has a door and is otherwise tight.
2) I’ve only recently considered this option. We already have a frost-free outdoor faucet at the front. Would it theoretically be possible to modify this faucet or run a line from it through the garden and the front, uninsulated wall of the outdoor storage to supply the equipment? Or is this not advisable or feasible for some reason? The missing outdoor faucet could potentially be replaced by a water outlet if this works out.
What do the experts say? Is the solution with the additional line harmless and cleaner? Or am I risking creating a hole that wouldn’t be necessary otherwise?
Best regards
We have decided to install a pool and want an automatic water refill system as well. This means we need water supply in our outdoor storage area, where the pool equipment and irrigation control will be located. Of course, we didn’t consider this during planning and construction, as the desire for a pool and automatic irrigation came much later. Anyway.
The outdoor storage is part of the house but is outside the thermal envelope and has no direct access from the house. Now the question is how to get the water connection into the outdoor storage. We would definitely install a backflow preventer. There are basically two options:
1) The pool installer suggested running an additional cold water line from the utility room on the opposite side of the house into the outdoor storage. We could tap off from there. However, this would require a core drill through the concrete wall and insulation, which I would prefer to avoid. The pool installer says this would pose no problem if the drill hole is properly foamed/sealed afterwards. So neither thermal nor sound insulation should be affected, especially since the outdoor storage already has a door and is otherwise tight.
2) I’ve only recently considered this option. We already have a frost-free outdoor faucet at the front. Would it theoretically be possible to modify this faucet or run a line from it through the garden and the front, uninsulated wall of the outdoor storage to supply the equipment? Or is this not advisable or feasible for some reason? The missing outdoor faucet could potentially be replaced by a water outlet if this works out.
What do the experts say? Is the solution with the additional line harmless and cleaner? Or am I risking creating a hole that wouldn’t be necessary otherwise?
Best regards
I have always mentioned water issues in other pool threads...
The simpler way would be to branch off at or before the existing outdoor water tap. The solenoid valve is located only in the technical room. However, everything must be installed below the frost line.
Core drilling would not be a problem either. Instead of foam, use a Doyma seal or a pipe sleeve. That would be my choice.
The simpler way would be to branch off at or before the existing outdoor water tap. The solenoid valve is located only in the technical room. However, everything must be installed below the frost line.
Core drilling would not be a problem either. Instead of foam, use a Doyma seal or a pipe sleeve. That would be my choice.
rick2018 schrieb:
I’ve always mentioned water-related issues in other pool threads… The easier way would be to branch off at or just before the existing outdoor water tap. The solenoid valve is only located in the equipment room. But everything must be installed below the frost line.
The core drilling wouldn’t be a problem either. Instead of foam, use a Doyma seal or a single-compartment sleeve. That would be my choice.Thanks for your opinion.
Regarding the connection at the outdoor water tap: What do you see as the drawbacks? The pool installer wasn’t very enthusiastic and didn’t go into detail. What exactly needs to be below the frost line? The tap is about 70cm (28 inches) deep in the wall and would then go down into the ground.
Thanks for the tip about the seal or the single-compartment sleeve. I’ll look into it this evening. Drilling is probably the cleanest solution after all.
If you actively winterize the pool, the refill system must also work. If parts of the water pipe are not frost-proof, the pipe must be drained, and the refill will not function.
It’s better to use a core drill and install a Doyma sleeve. A clean solution. I have nearly 20 penetrations just for the pool. However, I didn’t have to drill because the holes were already left open in the concrete.
It’s better to use a core drill and install a Doyma sleeve. A clean solution. I have nearly 20 penetrations just for the pool. However, I didn’t have to drill because the holes were already left open in the concrete.
rick2018 schrieb:
If you actively winterize the pool, the refill system also needs to work. If parts of the water pipe are not frost-protected, the pipe must be drained, and the refill won’t work.
It’s better to do a core drill and install a Doyma sleeve. Clean solution. I have nearly 20 penetrations just for the pool. But I didn’t have to drill because the holes were already left open in the concrete. Thanks for the explanation.
How about the water pressure? The pipe branches off from the main line that also supplies all other outlets (except the kitchen). This applies both to the cold water pipe, which would be installed separately, and to the outdoor faucet. Does that all work in this setup? I also got a measuring device and will check the flow rate at 3.5 bar (50.8 psi) in the next few days.
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