ᐅ Terraced Corner House Floor Plan in Development – Any Suggestions for Changes?
Created on: 20 Aug 2022 21:05
B
Bauherrin123
Hello dear forum members,
we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards
we are building an end-terrace house measuring 7 by 10 m (23 by 33 ft) without a basement. It will have 2 full floors and an attic above. Now the question is which roof we should have. I was shown a house with a 38-degree gable roof without a knee wall, which I found very nice in terms of the feeling of space. Now we have been informed that only a 35-degree gable roof is allowed for us, but with a 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall. What I didn’t realize was that our attic has a maximum height of only 63 cm (25 inches). So the attic space is very low. Now I have no basement and hardly any storage space and I’m a bit frustrated because the building permit application is now in front of me. I initially agreed that this was okay, but I would prefer a 1 m (3 ft) knee wall. The development plan only allows a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches). I’m really unsure what to choose... I don’t want to spend unnecessary money if it doesn’t make a big difference since we have a very large plot and can build storage in the garage, barn, or garden house...
What would you do?
A. 38-degree gable roof or
B. 35-degree gable roof with 30 cm (12 inches) knee wall or
C. 35-degree gable roof with 1 m (3 ft) knee wall, applying to the city office...
We would need to submit a request to the building authority to increase the knee wall to 1 m (3 ft), which would mean more effort, bureaucracy, and delays... I don’t know what it would cost or if it’s even possible, but it’s weighing on my mind because I only read online about people who built houses with a knee wall on the attic. The extra cost of $3,000–$5,000, if that’s roughly the amount, would be worth it to me if it creates nicer rooms and I get a higher attic for storage.
The second problem is that the plot is much lower than street level. We are paying an extra €10,000 to fill the plot with gravel up to street level. Now the house will be built just slightly above street level, so there will be a step at the entrance. There will be a total of 3 terraced houses, and we have the end house. In our row, two finished terraced houses from other builders are already standing next to ours. However, these are built 1 m (3 ft) above street level with 3 or 4 steps higher, so they probably look taller overall. I find this visually unappealing and also, personally, I want our house to be higher.
What are your thoughts on this?
I’m also uploading my floor plan, which I think is finished. I don’t understand how high the ceilings are; can someone tell from the plans? Inside the rooms, how high are they? And generally, do you notice anything about the floor plan?
My building permit application is ready, but I want to change it after all. It doesn’t suit me, and I’m sure it will cause trouble with the company if they have to make changes for us, but I want to be able to decide again and just need some feedback here.
Looking forward to your support!
Best regards
B
Bauherrin12322 Aug 2022 00:38K a t j a schrieb:
The office door is really a hazard. That’s quite unfortunate. Here are two alternative options, both of which still have a drawback.
Option 1 costs you some floor space. In such a small house, that’s a real loss. But it’s still better than having the door slammed right in your face.
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Does anyone have other suggestions on how to draw the wall and door? I’m willing to keep the closet at 250cm (98 inches), but the office door definitely has to open inward... Thanks
The kitchen layout does not match the planned kitchen according to the floor plan. In the floor plan, the sink and its connections are not located in front of the window.
If you want the sink in front of the window, you also need to consider whether the window can be opened inward as planned, given a sill height of 105cm (41 inches). This is especially important regarding the faucet.
If you want the sink in front of the window, you also need to consider whether the window can be opened inward as planned, given a sill height of 105cm (41 inches). This is especially important regarding the faucet.
evelinoz schrieb:
And that small kitchen is supposed to be enough for 5 people and several years with babies?
This is a typical rental apartment kitchen. Where do you keep your supplies?Well, you have to keep things in perspective. If there was more space, I would recommend more storage too. With this floor plan, you just have to accept some limitations. And yes: such a kitchen is sufficient. It’s cramped, but it works. Our kitchen doesn’t have more storage either, and there are 6 of us.That said, for our next kitchen we will definitely plan for more space.
B
Bauherrin12322 Aug 2022 07:41Yes, it is a space issue; some have already suggested narrowing the kitchen here,
Exactly! I have already been advised here,
First of all, the kitchen shown in the floor plan is just a template; the exact design will only be decided in the construction contract. That is why the architect left it as it is, it doesn’t matter. However, I took the dimensions and have already started kitchen planning to see how much fits in. The kitchen is planned as I posted later.
I have to say the kitchen planners were very good. They also offered me more cabinets, including a taller cabinet next to the oven. Basically, it would mean the pull-out pantry cabinet—the small one all the way on the left—would be removed and replaced with a tall cabinet between the oven and fridge. I will show you the picture shortly, but then I lose 30 cm or 40 cm (12–16 inches) of countertop space, and it looked too crowded for me. I just don’t have enough space.
The problem is I don’t have much more space. I was already advised to narrow the kitchen for the wardrobe, but I don’t want to do that because a small dining table is supposed to fit there. I want to be able to eat in the kitchen daily with my kids and husband, which I find very practical!
The only option would be to move the kitchen door to the left, so cabinets could also be placed behind the door, or arrange it as shown in the floor plan. But a shoe cabinet is planned in the hallway, so losing that wall would be inconvenient. That’s why the door stays where it is.
I also want a large freezer compartment. The pantry will have a freezer since none would fit in the kitchen, and built-in appliances are too expensive. The combined freezer compartment is way too small for me. So in the storage room: freezer, shelves for provisions, vacuum cleaner, and cleaning supplies—although I thought some of that could also go in the utility room upstairs, but we’ll see—and the wardrobe. For the wardrobe, I will use the right wall in the pantry, with simple hooks, possibly also on the door and the right wall. The remaining space is for the other items. I still need to measure what fits in there and at what size, but I don’t have many alternatives. I have to work with the space available.
The only thing I can change is the kitchen window, which is currently centered. If I move it closer to the kitchen cabinets—that is, further right—I would have 65 cm (26 inches) of space to the left of the sink instead of the current 50 cm (20 inches), allowing me to add a tall cabinet there. All kitchen planners agreed it would not look good, and I would lose countertop space. The microwave will go above the oven; otherwise, I still need to find space for the coffee machine, kettle, stand mixer, etc.
The sink stays in front of the window and will have a separate faucet that can be detached and lowered so the window can open. I thought about that too because I read about it somewhere in the forum.
SoL schrieb:
Well, one has to keep things in perspective. If there were more space, I would also recommend more storage. With this floor plan, you just have to make some compromises. And yes: a kitchen like this is sufficient. It’s a bit tight, but it works. Our kitchen doesn’t have more storage either, and there are six of us.
Regardless, we will also plan for more space in our next kitchen.
Exactly! I have already been advised here,
SoL schrieb:
Well, one has to keep things in perspective. If there were more space, I would also recommend more storage. With this floor plan, you just have to make some compromises. And yes: a kitchen like this is sufficient. It’s a bit tight, but it works. Our kitchen doesn’t have more storage either, and there are six of us.
Regardless, we will also plan for more space in our next kitchen.
First of all, the kitchen shown in the floor plan is just a template; the exact design will only be decided in the construction contract. That is why the architect left it as it is, it doesn’t matter. However, I took the dimensions and have already started kitchen planning to see how much fits in. The kitchen is planned as I posted later.
I have to say the kitchen planners were very good. They also offered me more cabinets, including a taller cabinet next to the oven. Basically, it would mean the pull-out pantry cabinet—the small one all the way on the left—would be removed and replaced with a tall cabinet between the oven and fridge. I will show you the picture shortly, but then I lose 30 cm or 40 cm (12–16 inches) of countertop space, and it looked too crowded for me. I just don’t have enough space.
The problem is I don’t have much more space. I was already advised to narrow the kitchen for the wardrobe, but I don’t want to do that because a small dining table is supposed to fit there. I want to be able to eat in the kitchen daily with my kids and husband, which I find very practical!
The only option would be to move the kitchen door to the left, so cabinets could also be placed behind the door, or arrange it as shown in the floor plan. But a shoe cabinet is planned in the hallway, so losing that wall would be inconvenient. That’s why the door stays where it is.
I also want a large freezer compartment. The pantry will have a freezer since none would fit in the kitchen, and built-in appliances are too expensive. The combined freezer compartment is way too small for me. So in the storage room: freezer, shelves for provisions, vacuum cleaner, and cleaning supplies—although I thought some of that could also go in the utility room upstairs, but we’ll see—and the wardrobe. For the wardrobe, I will use the right wall in the pantry, with simple hooks, possibly also on the door and the right wall. The remaining space is for the other items. I still need to measure what fits in there and at what size, but I don’t have many alternatives. I have to work with the space available.
The only thing I can change is the kitchen window, which is currently centered. If I move it closer to the kitchen cabinets—that is, further right—I would have 65 cm (26 inches) of space to the left of the sink instead of the current 50 cm (20 inches), allowing me to add a tall cabinet there. All kitchen planners agreed it would not look good, and I would lose countertop space. The microwave will go above the oven; otherwise, I still need to find space for the coffee machine, kettle, stand mixer, etc.
The sink stays in front of the window and will have a separate faucet that can be detached and lowered so the window can open. I thought about that too because I read about it somewhere in the forum.
As mentioned, enclose the space under the stairs on the ground floor. You will need it. Otherwise, there is far too little storage space.
Simply make the bedroom narrower and rotate the bed. Unfortunately, I can’t give exact measurements right now. It would be good to know for sure whether there is still comfortable access beside the bed. Visually, I think it would work, and the 3m (10 feet) closet is an option again.
Bauherrin123 schrieb:Yes, I have one more idea:
Does anyone have other suggestions on how to draw the wall and door here? I’m willing to keep the closet at 250cm (100 inches), but the office door definitely has to open inward,... Thanks
Simply make the bedroom narrower and rotate the bed. Unfortunately, I can’t give exact measurements right now. It would be good to know for sure whether there is still comfortable access beside the bed. Visually, I think it would work, and the 3m (10 feet) closet is an option again.
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