ᐅ Ground Source Heat Pump – What to Watch for When Reviewing a Quote (Single-Family Home, New Build, KfW 70 Standard)
Created on: 31 Jan 2014 08:21
L
LacosHello everyone,
We are planning to build with a general contractor (single-family house, about 136 sqm (1463 sq ft), gable roof, ≤KFW70) and would like to enter the final negotiations with the last 2 or 3 points.
The construction descriptions each list ground source heat pumps (brand name + buffer tank), but without much detail. I would like to ask for your recommendations in this area.
Since brand names probably shouldn’t be mentioned here:
A brine-to-water ground source heat pump with a COP of 4.7 is specified (integrated domestic hot water tank of 185L (49 gallons)). Additionally, a buffer tank, probably between 200 - 300L (53 - 79 gallons), is planned.
1. Is this combination reasonable?
2. What should generally be considered with heat pumps? I definitely want to install a heat meter and a separate electricity meter. What else should be taken into account?
3. Which combination do you consider the most practical (e.g., size of the buffer tank, etc.) for a household of two people (both working, possibly one child in a few years)?
Thank you very much in advance,
Lacos
We are planning to build with a general contractor (single-family house, about 136 sqm (1463 sq ft), gable roof, ≤KFW70) and would like to enter the final negotiations with the last 2 or 3 points.
The construction descriptions each list ground source heat pumps (brand name + buffer tank), but without much detail. I would like to ask for your recommendations in this area.
Since brand names probably shouldn’t be mentioned here:
A brine-to-water ground source heat pump with a COP of 4.7 is specified (integrated domestic hot water tank of 185L (49 gallons)). Additionally, a buffer tank, probably between 200 - 300L (53 - 79 gallons), is planned.
1. Is this combination reasonable?
2. What should generally be considered with heat pumps? I definitely want to install a heat meter and a separate electricity meter. What else should be taken into account?
3. Which combination do you consider the most practical (e.g., size of the buffer tank, etc.) for a household of two people (both working, possibly one child in a few years)?
Thank you very much in advance,
Lacos
Why should it be running at full capacity all the time? Only if it was incorrectly sized...
My ground-source heat pump is currently still operated purely electrically with a 9kW (12 hp) heating element to drive out the residual moisture from the screed. With the 9kW (12 hp) heating cartridge, we manage room temperatures over 30°C (86°F). If it runs at full capacity during normal use, something was planned wrong.
My ground-source heat pump is currently still operated purely electrically with a 9kW (12 hp) heating element to drive out the residual moisture from the screed. With the 9kW (12 hp) heating cartridge, we manage room temperatures over 30°C (86°F). If it runs at full capacity during normal use, something was planned wrong.
Quote from another forum: ...no matter how you do it later, make sure the domestic hot water tank is separate from the heating storage tank. I made a big mistake with this because in the stratified storage tank, the different temperature layers kept mixing, causing the heat pump to always operate at a high performance level. Only since I properly separated the tanks has everything been stable.
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