ᐅ Single-Family Home Floor Plan with Basement – Please Share Your Opinions
Created on: 9 Jan 2014 21:16
A
Atti1.) Basement: Consider whether to position the window opposite the door in Basement 1 a bit more centrally so that standard-depth shelves can still fit along the wall by the door. Unless the room already has a fixed intended use.
2.) Garage: I was referring to the drive-through width of the door. How wide is it there?
3.) How is the staircase planned if the front door is supposed to be 3m (10 feet) wide?
In my opinion, a hallway width of 2.50m (8 feet) is sufficient, but of course: the wider, the more welcoming.
If you have half a meter (20 inches) of extra width, consider whether it might make more sense to extend the garage by that half meter (20 inches).
4.) Since you have a basement and your utility room only needs to accommodate the washing machine and daily-use items, I think 4sqm (43 sq ft) is enough, especially since you are planning a sliding door, so no door opens inward and the utility room really has its full 4sqm (43 sq ft). Most things not used daily (tools, etc.) will probably be stored in the basement, right?
5.) Dormers on the upper floor: Clearly, it’s a matter of cost, but it’s better to budget more now and perhaps leave one room unfinished or do some work yourself later than to regret it afterward. I know many people who tried to save or “had to” and shortly after regretted it deeply or even ended up paying double because they thought during construction “this will probably be okay.”
6.) Bay window: The question of whether 3.24m (10 ft 7 in) or 4m (13 ft 1 in) is better is a bit more complex.
My questions on this:
a) Will the dining table stay where it is currently planned, or should it be positioned more inside the bay window?
b) If you widen the bay window on the ground floor, logically the upper floor bay would be widened as well. That would make the bathroom smaller, right? And that is a fundamental decision regarding how you want to design the upper floor. I have to say, the more I think about it, I like my suggestion—even if it’s a bit more expensive because you will then need dormers. But this way, the hallway on the upper floor would be brighter, and you’d also have a shared play area for children or a reading nook, a small workspace (sewing machine, crafts, etc.)—whatever you want. The choice remains open, and you can always adapt it to your needs, which I believe is better than permanently designating this part of the house as a bedroom. Because later (if it belongs to the bedroom) you can’t change it anymore (or only by paying even more, since adding dormers afterward costs more – see what I already mentioned above). Consider checking what dormers with roller shutters would cost you, and then you can look more closely at the specific numbers. You might want to leave out the small peak on top of the large bay window and make it flat (but nice), which would already save some money and also make the dormers cheaper since they would no longer require “peaks.”
7.) Kitchen hood exhaust: Depending on how airtight the house is built, is it still allowed to make holes in the exterior wall for kitchen hoods or vented dryers, or am I mistaken?
2.) Garage: I was referring to the drive-through width of the door. How wide is it there?
3.) How is the staircase planned if the front door is supposed to be 3m (10 feet) wide?
In my opinion, a hallway width of 2.50m (8 feet) is sufficient, but of course: the wider, the more welcoming.
If you have half a meter (20 inches) of extra width, consider whether it might make more sense to extend the garage by that half meter (20 inches).
4.) Since you have a basement and your utility room only needs to accommodate the washing machine and daily-use items, I think 4sqm (43 sq ft) is enough, especially since you are planning a sliding door, so no door opens inward and the utility room really has its full 4sqm (43 sq ft). Most things not used daily (tools, etc.) will probably be stored in the basement, right?
5.) Dormers on the upper floor: Clearly, it’s a matter of cost, but it’s better to budget more now and perhaps leave one room unfinished or do some work yourself later than to regret it afterward. I know many people who tried to save or “had to” and shortly after regretted it deeply or even ended up paying double because they thought during construction “this will probably be okay.”
6.) Bay window: The question of whether 3.24m (10 ft 7 in) or 4m (13 ft 1 in) is better is a bit more complex.
My questions on this:
a) Will the dining table stay where it is currently planned, or should it be positioned more inside the bay window?
b) If you widen the bay window on the ground floor, logically the upper floor bay would be widened as well. That would make the bathroom smaller, right? And that is a fundamental decision regarding how you want to design the upper floor. I have to say, the more I think about it, I like my suggestion—even if it’s a bit more expensive because you will then need dormers. But this way, the hallway on the upper floor would be brighter, and you’d also have a shared play area for children or a reading nook, a small workspace (sewing machine, crafts, etc.)—whatever you want. The choice remains open, and you can always adapt it to your needs, which I believe is better than permanently designating this part of the house as a bedroom. Because later (if it belongs to the bedroom) you can’t change it anymore (or only by paying even more, since adding dormers afterward costs more – see what I already mentioned above). Consider checking what dormers with roller shutters would cost you, and then you can look more closely at the specific numbers. You might want to leave out the small peak on top of the large bay window and make it flat (but nice), which would already save some money and also make the dormers cheaper since they would no longer require “peaks.”
7.) Kitchen hood exhaust: Depending on how airtight the house is built, is it still allowed to make holes in the exterior wall for kitchen hoods or vented dryers, or am I mistaken?
1) The issue with the window is correct, we will change that...
2) The driveway is 5 meters (16 feet) wide. Is that sufficient?
3) We can still expand in width... We just thought that if we widen the entrance to 3 meters (10 feet), we would have more space for the wardrobe. The basement stairs should stay as they are, connected on the right side...
4) Yes, then 4 square meters (43 square feet) should actually be enough. The basement will also be used for storage.
5,6) Considering the dormer windows is worth thinking about.
The dining table should be positioned like that. But since we often have guests, the table should still be easily extendable with enough space remaining.
We have a new idea again. To omit the bay window downstairs and extend it only upstairs (so only an implied bay window – is that the right term?).
This would create a more spacious kitchen, dining, and living area.
2) The driveway is 5 meters (16 feet) wide. Is that sufficient?
3) We can still expand in width... We just thought that if we widen the entrance to 3 meters (10 feet), we would have more space for the wardrobe. The basement stairs should stay as they are, connected on the right side...
4) Yes, then 4 square meters (43 square feet) should actually be enough. The basement will also be used for storage.
5,6) Considering the dormer windows is worth thinking about.
The dining table should be positioned like that. But since we often have guests, the table should still be easily extendable with enough space remaining.
We have a new idea again. To omit the bay window downstairs and extend it only upstairs (so only an implied bay window – is that the right term?).
This would create a more spacious kitchen, dining, and living area.
Atti schrieb:
We have a new idea. To leave out the bay window on the ground floor and extend it only upwards (so just a suggested bay window – is that the right term??)
This would make the kitchen, dining, and living area more spacious.Now I’m a bit confused. :-)
What do you mean? :-)
Similar topics