ᐅ Floor plan of a semi-detached house, 2.5 stories plus usable basement
Created on: 28 Mar 2022 11:37
C
corby_81
Hello everyone,
we are planning to build a semi-detached house with 2.5 stories plus a basement. We have received a first draft from the general contractor and would like to discuss it with you.
The floors are divided as follows:
Basement = utility cellar
Ground floor = living/dining + kitchen + WC + storage
Upper floor = 2 large children's rooms + family bathroom
Attic = bedroom + office + WC/bathroom
Development plan/restrictions
Plot size: 420 sqm (4521 sq ft)
Slope: no
Site coverage ratio: 0.4
Floor area ratio: not specified
Parking spaces: carport + 1 parking space
Number of floors: 2.5
Roof type: gable roof, 35 degrees
Style: semi-detached house
Orientation: southeast
Maximum heights/limits: ridge height = 6.5 m (21 ft 4 in), overall height = 10 m (32 ft 10 in), max width = 9 m (29 ft 6 in). Due to the overall height limit and the 35-degree roof pitch, the max depth = 10 m (32 ft 10 in).
Homeowners’ requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Utility basement, 2.5 stories
Number of occupants: 2 adults + 2 children (5 and 7 years old)
Guests per year: negligible
Large kitchen, open but can be closed off with sliding doors; kitchen island for prep work (cooktop not planned on island for now)
Number of dining seats: 6
Fireplace: ethanol fireplace integrated into the living room wall
Carport
Separate floor for the children with large bedrooms
Sauna in the attic
Dormer on the north side
Ceiling height on ground and upper floors: 2.50 m (8 ft 2 in) each
Office/guest room in the attic
House design
Design by: general contractor (redrawn by me in Sweet Home 3D with furniture added)
What do we like most and why?: large living room with big windows, spacious kitchen, large children’s rooms
Preferred heating system: air-source heat pump
What is the main/basic question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
- Living room: are the windows chosen too large?
- Children’s rooms: how do you find the layout, especially child 2’s room?
- Family bathroom: is the passage to the toilet and shower too narrow?
- Office: 2 m (6 ft 7 in) depth is reached quickly after the entrance; the dormer exists but I’m unsure how the room will feel. What do you think?
we are planning to build a semi-detached house with 2.5 stories plus a basement. We have received a first draft from the general contractor and would like to discuss it with you.
The floors are divided as follows:
Basement = utility cellar
Ground floor = living/dining + kitchen + WC + storage
Upper floor = 2 large children's rooms + family bathroom
Attic = bedroom + office + WC/bathroom
Development plan/restrictions
Plot size: 420 sqm (4521 sq ft)
Slope: no
Site coverage ratio: 0.4
Floor area ratio: not specified
Parking spaces: carport + 1 parking space
Number of floors: 2.5
Roof type: gable roof, 35 degrees
Style: semi-detached house
Orientation: southeast
Maximum heights/limits: ridge height = 6.5 m (21 ft 4 in), overall height = 10 m (32 ft 10 in), max width = 9 m (29 ft 6 in). Due to the overall height limit and the 35-degree roof pitch, the max depth = 10 m (32 ft 10 in).
Homeowners’ requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Utility basement, 2.5 stories
Number of occupants: 2 adults + 2 children (5 and 7 years old)
Guests per year: negligible
Large kitchen, open but can be closed off with sliding doors; kitchen island for prep work (cooktop not planned on island for now)
Number of dining seats: 6
Fireplace: ethanol fireplace integrated into the living room wall
Carport
Separate floor for the children with large bedrooms
Sauna in the attic
Dormer on the north side
Ceiling height on ground and upper floors: 2.50 m (8 ft 2 in) each
Office/guest room in the attic
House design
Design by: general contractor (redrawn by me in Sweet Home 3D with furniture added)
What do we like most and why?: large living room with big windows, spacious kitchen, large children’s rooms
Preferred heating system: air-source heat pump
What is the main/basic question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
- Living room: are the windows chosen too large?
- Children’s rooms: how do you find the layout, especially child 2’s room?
- Family bathroom: is the passage to the toilet and shower too narrow?
- Office: 2 m (6 ft 7 in) depth is reached quickly after the entrance; the dormer exists but I’m unsure how the room will feel. What do you think?
Apart from that, the staircase under the sloped ceiling probably won’t work. The height remains around 1.x meters (3.x feet) across, while you want to go straight up the stairs.
Even though you have good intentions with the children's rooms, I think 21 m² (226 ft²) is a bit too large. 15 or 16 m² (161 or 172 ft²) is sufficient for a child’s room!
Even though you have good intentions with the children's rooms, I think 21 m² (226 ft²) is a bit too large. 15 or 16 m² (161 or 172 ft²) is sufficient for a child’s room!
ypg schrieb:
… before everything gets repeated and discussed again in the green area: has it been clarified or is it stated somewhere how close the garage is allowed to be to the street?The carport must be 3m (10 feet) away from the street, which is not very clear on the floor plan.ypg schrieb:
Besides that, the staircase under the sloped ceiling probably won’t work. The height across remains at about 1.x meters, while you want to go straight up on the stairs.
Even though you mean well with the kids’ rooms, I think 21sqm (226 sq ft) is a bit oversized. 15 or 16sqm (161 or 172 sq ft) is enough for a children’s room!When I walk up the stairs, the 2m (6 ft 7 in) clearance line already starts from the middle of the staircase. Is that really not enough, or am I misunderstanding something?
corby_81 schrieb:
When I walk up the stairs, the 2m (6 feet 7 inches) line already starts halfway up the staircase. Is that really not enough, or am I missing something? Then I must have the same issue because I don't see any narrow spot either – maybe we can ask our staircase specialist @kbt09 🙂
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
corby_81 schrieb:
When I walk up the stairs, the 2m (6 ft 7 in) mark already starts halfway up the staircase. Is that really not enough, or am I missing something? It’s possible that I’m missing something as well. However, personally, I wouldn’t want to reduce space on an exterior wall in a semi-detached house—which already requires compromises in many areas—by placing a staircase exactly in that area where the exterior wall could be better used for rooms with natural daylight. Therefore, I don’t find the upper floor with disproportionately large rooms to be functional.
11ant schrieb:
Then I must have the same one, because I also don’t see any bottleneck there – we could ask our staircase specialist @kbt09 🙂 I don’t see any need to ask a specialist. @ypg probably made a mistake. It can happen.
@ypg was faster.
I sketched it out, and it’s quite close.
I have been drawing floor plans as an amateur for 20 years… some even make it into the selection to be built “exactly like this” or close to it.
A design by laypeople is then refined by professionals who are not creatively involved. Usually, bottlenecks with actual dimensions cause issues, such as stairs that don’t comply with regulations, the stone sizes or grid system often mentioned by @11ant. Doors that cannot be installed properly… forgotten plaster thicknesses. What I want to say is:
Plan enough space (including heights) everywhere for the detailed construction planning. Many elements depend on each other and especially on the stairs. If you design with tight dimensions now, it will probably not be feasible in practice.
Your space-saving kitchen: With a kitchen island 90cm (35 inches) wide, you have 80cm (31 inches) aisles (assuming your drawn measurements exclude plaster and built-in elements). This will not work well in daily use. Open doors from the fridge, oven, or cabinets will block movement. The shared workspace will be cramped, and you may have to take extra steps just to avoid bumping into each other.
The hallway is small. There is no space for a sideboard. It might have to be relocated to the living area, where there is basically unused space, almost like an entrance hall.
The sofa arranged this way is the focus for postal workers, etc. Privacy is not given in this line of sight.
I would therefore place the stairs slimmer and slightly more central, and also consider integrating the carport or parking space into the ground floor with a corner. This would improve the appearance and the window facade on the southeast side.
I have been drawing floor plans as an amateur for 20 years… some even make it into the selection to be built “exactly like this” or close to it.
A design by laypeople is then refined by professionals who are not creatively involved. Usually, bottlenecks with actual dimensions cause issues, such as stairs that don’t comply with regulations, the stone sizes or grid system often mentioned by @11ant. Doors that cannot be installed properly… forgotten plaster thicknesses. What I want to say is:
Plan enough space (including heights) everywhere for the detailed construction planning. Many elements depend on each other and especially on the stairs. If you design with tight dimensions now, it will probably not be feasible in practice.
Your space-saving kitchen: With a kitchen island 90cm (35 inches) wide, you have 80cm (31 inches) aisles (assuming your drawn measurements exclude plaster and built-in elements). This will not work well in daily use. Open doors from the fridge, oven, or cabinets will block movement. The shared workspace will be cramped, and you may have to take extra steps just to avoid bumping into each other.
The hallway is small. There is no space for a sideboard. It might have to be relocated to the living area, where there is basically unused space, almost like an entrance hall.
The sofa arranged this way is the focus for postal workers, etc. Privacy is not given in this line of sight.
I would therefore place the stairs slimmer and slightly more central, and also consider integrating the carport or parking space into the ground floor with a corner. This would improve the appearance and the window facade on the southeast side.
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