Hello
we are currently planning our new semi-detached house
we have now reached the topic of video doorbells and security cameras
I have a few questions
Video doorbell:
which "smart" video doorbell can you recommend without monthly fees?
The video doorbell should have the following features:
When someone rings, there should be an audible signal inside the house (like a normal doorbell) and a notification should be sent to our smartphones
The video doorbell should also be seamlessly compatible with a smart door lock (e.g. Nuki) and it should work seamlessly together with the security cameras (all in one app)
At what height from the ground should the video doorbell be installed?
Which "smart" security cameras can you recommend? Should we choose the same manufacturer as the video doorbell?
Where should security cameras be installed?
Definitely one on the garage to cover the area next to the house.
Then only the entrance area would be left—do we still need an additional security camera at the entrance if we already have a video doorbell?
I have already looked and the big well-known brands like Ring (Amazon) and Nest (Google) all rely on cloud solutions with monthly subscriptions if you want all features
I have also seen Eufy (Anker) which works without cloud and monthly fees
What do you think of these brands or which ones would you recommend we check out?
we are currently planning our new semi-detached house
we have now reached the topic of video doorbells and security cameras
I have a few questions
Video doorbell:
which "smart" video doorbell can you recommend without monthly fees?
The video doorbell should have the following features:
When someone rings, there should be an audible signal inside the house (like a normal doorbell) and a notification should be sent to our smartphones
The video doorbell should also be seamlessly compatible with a smart door lock (e.g. Nuki) and it should work seamlessly together with the security cameras (all in one app)
At what height from the ground should the video doorbell be installed?
Which "smart" security cameras can you recommend? Should we choose the same manufacturer as the video doorbell?
Where should security cameras be installed?
Definitely one on the garage to cover the area next to the house.
Then only the entrance area would be left—do we still need an additional security camera at the entrance if we already have a video doorbell?
I have already looked and the big well-known brands like Ring (Amazon) and Nest (Google) all rely on cloud solutions with monthly subscriptions if you want all features
I have also seen Eufy (Anker) which works without cloud and monthly fees
What do you think of these brands or which ones would you recommend we check out?
@ntsa86 Thank you very much for your detailed answer.
We have roughly the same ideas about a "smart home."
We want to automate the following later on:
Shutter control
Lighting control
Video intercom system and possibly a smart door lock, e.g. Nuki, and maybe a fingerprint scanner like Ekey
Probably window sensors (but if possible, replacing the handle so there are no visible parts, including handle position detection)
And possibly heating control (underfloor heating; our house will be powered by district heating)
And outdoor cameras, mainly for deterrence
I also want to be able to create automations and scenes myself, and it should be intuitive to use.
We want to avoid batteries or rechargeable batteries as much as possible (but if there’s no other option, then we will use Eneloop rechargeable batteries).
Outdoor cameras and video doorbells definitely need to be hardwired for power.
Is it dangerous to have a LAN cable at the doorbell because it might be vulnerable to attacks from outside via the LAN cable? (I’m not very familiar with this.)
If it’s safe, we will also have one installed for the doorbell.
We have roughly the same ideas about a "smart home."
We want to automate the following later on:
Shutter control
Lighting control
Video intercom system and possibly a smart door lock, e.g. Nuki, and maybe a fingerprint scanner like Ekey
Probably window sensors (but if possible, replacing the handle so there are no visible parts, including handle position detection)
And possibly heating control (underfloor heating; our house will be powered by district heating)
And outdoor cameras, mainly for deterrence
I also want to be able to create automations and scenes myself, and it should be intuitive to use.
We want to avoid batteries or rechargeable batteries as much as possible (but if there’s no other option, then we will use Eneloop rechargeable batteries).
Outdoor cameras and video doorbells definitely need to be hardwired for power.
Is it dangerous to have a LAN cable at the doorbell because it might be vulnerable to attacks from outside via the LAN cable? (I’m not very familiar with this.)
If it’s safe, we will also have one installed for the doorbell.
Taitv789 schrieb:
Is a LAN cable at the doorbell not dangerous because it could be attacked from the outside via the LAN cable? (I’m not very knowledgeable about this)
If it’s safe, we will have one installed for the doorbell as well. Once the video door phone is installed, it is securely mounted so that no one can easily tamper with it.
Of course, with enough determination and criminal intent, anything can be accessed and attacked....
ntsa86 schrieb:
Additionally, maybe I can share how we implemented the "Smart Home" aspect.
First of all, everyone has a different idea of what a "Smart Home" means.
Make sure you clearly define your own requirements for a smart home.
Our personal requirements were as follows:
- Video door intercom system
- Cameras in the backyard
- Control of the roller shutters via app (setting scenes that can be activated manually or automatically)
- Lighting control via app and integration with voice assistants, with time-based brightness settings
- On each floor, the possibility to control the intercom, lights, or roller shutters if desired
That was basically all we needed. At that time, Matter was not yet relevant.
The following actions were taken based on this:
- Ran LAN and telephone cables to the location of the intercom (to allow all options later)
- In every flower bed and corner, there is an electrical cable connected to garden sockets powering devices
- Flush-mounted electrical box (UP box) behind each roller shutter switch, using Kaiser electronic boxes. Usage of flush-mounted radio modules that switch locally (in our case, Shelly). Basic functions and manual operation remain instantaneous at the familiar switch. Comfort functions are wireless (e.g., via app, or triggered scenes like "set all shutters to desired position in the evening"). The app allows scene creation and setting the height for each shutter. Completely sufficient for us.
- For lighting, we chose Hue. Certainly not cheap, but in my opinion, the highest quality. Also offers excellent compatibility in all directions. Mature app and technology. Nowadays, there are even flush-mounted modules, which we use for example in the main bathroom (the same light sources have different settings per scene like "Bath/Relax" and "All On").
- The flush-mounted boxes are again electronic boxes, with LAN cable including RJ45 jack, where a PoE splitter fits exactly to power tablets (here you have a wide choice).
In passage areas, Hue motion sensors work very well. Where I've had bad experiences are Zigbee bulbs outside the Hue ecosystem. I was forced to use shallow recessed spots in the upper floor hallway because the drywall ceiling substructure was not doubled up (planning error on my part). This meant that standard deep recessed spots (including Hue spots) wouldn’t fit without damaging the vapor barrier. I had to switch to Paulmann Zigbee LED spots. They were not really cheaper and still don’t work as reliably. For example, the whole lighting group turns on at different times. Occasionally, a spot doesn’t turn on. It’s as if the software freezes. Power cycling helps. That’s unacceptable for me given the price. I’m still looking for a better solution here.
Basically, in the planning phase, we only considered where to be more generous with wiring or flush-mounted boxes. Basic functions remain conventional. Comfort functions are via app/wireless. The costs were manageable, and my wife’s acceptance hasn’t suffered. On the contrary, she now uses the system more often than I do.
As mentioned above, everyone has a different idea about smart homes. I wouldn’t call our home a smart home myself, rather a classic home with modern options that bring us the desired convenience.Sorry for the possibly silly question about the roller shutter control... I don’t know anything about this, but it’s very interesting for our planned attic conversion (due to the expected child).
So, do I just get a Shelly 2.5, connect it behind our Jung double switch, and handle the rest in the app?
...sounds almost too easy ;-) ... do I need to consider anything else?
@Taitv789
You should first clarify your priorities. On one hand, you’re worried that someone might come to your house with a laptop or similar device, tamper with your doorbell, and then gain access to your house through the LAN port. On the other hand, you’re planning to use devices like Nuki… hmm, they were recently as vulnerable as an open barn door (not for the first time)… and external attacks will probably increase in the future.
@xxsonicxx
Shelly devices don’t offer much. What exactly do you have in mind regarding roller shutter control?
You should first clarify your priorities. On one hand, you’re worried that someone might come to your house with a laptop or similar device, tamper with your doorbell, and then gain access to your house through the LAN port. On the other hand, you’re planning to use devices like Nuki… hmm, they were recently as vulnerable as an open barn door (not for the first time)… and external attacks will probably increase in the future.
@xxsonicxx
Shelly devices don’t offer much. What exactly do you have in mind regarding roller shutter control?
@Mycraft has already described and pointed out quite a few things.
Security and Wi-Fi cameras do not go well together!
LAN ports can be secured with certificates and so on, even up to mechanical isolators.
You need to have some knowledge about this. We are no longer talking about a simple router solution here.
Cameras are usually the last component in a security concept. Before that, many other factors need to be considered.
What security rating do your window frames and panes have? Wall structure? Locking system? Lighting? Motion and presence detectors…
Monitoring the property boundaries, etc.
Security needs are individual and subjective. Most often, the whole thing fails due to budget constraints.
Anyone who wants to install a doorbell from Doorbird or Nest has already taken the wrong approach.
Cameras belong on the LAN. Local and remote backups. Redundant power supplies for the security system…
Depending on the camera, costs can quickly reach high three-digit amounts or more. Areas need to overlap. Consider mounting heights and angles.
Security and Wi-Fi cameras do not go well together!
LAN ports can be secured with certificates and so on, even up to mechanical isolators.
You need to have some knowledge about this. We are no longer talking about a simple router solution here.
Cameras are usually the last component in a security concept. Before that, many other factors need to be considered.
What security rating do your window frames and panes have? Wall structure? Locking system? Lighting? Motion and presence detectors…
Monitoring the property boundaries, etc.
Security needs are individual and subjective. Most often, the whole thing fails due to budget constraints.
Anyone who wants to install a doorbell from Doorbird or Nest has already taken the wrong approach.
Cameras belong on the LAN. Local and remote backups. Redundant power supplies for the security system…
Depending on the camera, costs can quickly reach high three-digit amounts or more. Areas need to overlap. Consider mounting heights and angles.
Similar topics