ᐅ Home Construction Features and Extras – What Can Be Included?
Created on: 19 Nov 2013 09:31
H
hululu0
Good morning,
I have put together a small list of extras and would appreciate any additional ideas you might have.
- In the ground floor living, dining, and kitchen areas, the electric switches should be controlled individually and connected in a “series circuit” to dim the lights.
- Controlled decentralized ventilation system with heat recovery.
- Preparation for photovoltaic system on the roof; missing on the garage roof.
- Two outdoor sockets on the ground floor.
- One outdoor connection for a light with motion sensor and switch on each side of the house.
- Three-phase power in the basement.
- Fireplace for a wood stove.
- Power supply in the garage.
- In the attic living, dining, and kitchen areas, leave the ceiling open up to the roof.
- Sliding doors with approximately 1.5 meters (5 feet) opening between the dining/living area and the hallway.
Thank you for your help.
I have put together a small list of extras and would appreciate any additional ideas you might have.
- In the ground floor living, dining, and kitchen areas, the electric switches should be controlled individually and connected in a “series circuit” to dim the lights.
- Controlled decentralized ventilation system with heat recovery.
- Preparation for photovoltaic system on the roof; missing on the garage roof.
- Two outdoor sockets on the ground floor.
- One outdoor connection for a light with motion sensor and switch on each side of the house.
- Three-phase power in the basement.
- Fireplace for a wood stove.
- Power supply in the garage.
- In the attic living, dining, and kitchen areas, leave the ceiling open up to the roof.
- Sliding doors with approximately 1.5 meters (5 feet) opening between the dining/living area and the hallway.
Thank you for your help.
Mycraft schrieb:
When you come home and enter the property, the lights in the entrance area turn on. That is (almost) the only thing I personally accept and will have in my life.
Everything else feels too controlled for me (okay, heating systems can basically be set to maintain a constant temperature in the rooms), and in my opinion, there are too many static preconceptions built into the programming that suppress individuality in creating or living life. Sometimes I sleep in until 9 a.m., sometimes until 11 a.m. on weekends, or just prefer to look out the window when there is something to see in the dark outside—for example, the beautifully lit garden, which I can turn on with a button press.
Some people need a life that is controlled from “outside” or “above”… yes, I know, YOU are the one who controls and sets it up yourself, but I believe that through automation, the brain eventually becomes dull and tired and surrenders to whatever is provided.
For me personally, the strict office routine that starts every morning at 7:30 a.m. is already unpleasant. I am grateful for any special occasion that makes the day different.
And when I have my three-day bouts of depression, I don’t even want to know that bills are waiting in the mailbox. Can that be spontaneously switched off, or is it a red blinking alarm button that also sounds a horn?
Yes, it’s not for everyone, but I have mentioned this before...
For example, your problem with the shutters on weekends is solved like this:
As long as the bed is occupied, nothing goes up... however, if you are awake and want to stay in bed but still have the shutters open, you can tap the display located above the bed to raise the shutters.
I’m not really interested in looking into the garden when it’s dark anyway... you can’t see anything then... and you can always go to a window, open it, and then the shutter will go up...
As I mentioned before, home automation aims to adapt the house to the resident, not the other way around, which is necessary without automation...
Well, you can’t really say it like that... that would be too general... with more automation come more challenges, and the brain is repeatedly engaged in creating scenarios and implementing them in the automation, all while maintaining or even improving the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor)!
I often sit with my laptop working on programming, because you discover new things that can be automated from time to time.
There are still a few things I forgot to mention that I implemented:
- Presence simulation
- When leaving the house, path lighting and other lights turn on (similarly when entering the property)
- When leaving the house, all unnecessary devices like the TV are switched off
- When returning, these devices are turned back on
- At bedtime, the system checks if all shutters are down and all lights and unnecessary devices are off; if not, everything is shut down or powered off again
and the most important thing:
- When the alarm goes off in the morning and you have to get out of bed, the coffee machine in the kitchen starts brewing a cup...
For example, your problem with the shutters on weekends is solved like this:
As long as the bed is occupied, nothing goes up... however, if you are awake and want to stay in bed but still have the shutters open, you can tap the display located above the bed to raise the shutters.
I’m not really interested in looking into the garden when it’s dark anyway... you can’t see anything then... and you can always go to a window, open it, and then the shutter will go up...
As I mentioned before, home automation aims to adapt the house to the resident, not the other way around, which is necessary without automation...
yes, I know, YOU are the one who sets and controls these things, but I believe that automation makes the brain dull and tired over time, surrendering to what is programmed.
Well, you can’t really say it like that... that would be too general... with more automation come more challenges, and the brain is repeatedly engaged in creating scenarios and implementing them in the automation, all while maintaining or even improving the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor)!
I often sit with my laptop working on programming, because you discover new things that can be automated from time to time.
There are still a few things I forgot to mention that I implemented:
- Presence simulation
- When leaving the house, path lighting and other lights turn on (similarly when entering the property)
- When leaving the house, all unnecessary devices like the TV are switched off
- When returning, these devices are turned back on
- At bedtime, the system checks if all shutters are down and all lights and unnecessary devices are off; if not, everything is shut down or powered off again
and the most important thing:
- When the alarm goes off in the morning and you have to get out of bed, the coffee machine in the kitchen starts brewing a cup...
D
DerBjoern18 Dec 2013 13:49I would like to add a few points to those listed by Mycraft that are often implemented in private homes:
Access control: By integrating motorized locks and RFID keys, you can grant certain people access only at specific times. For example, allowing the cleaner access only on Wednesday mornings, or letting a neighbor in remotely from work at the push of a button to let the meter reader in, etc. This can also be used to improve presence/absence management.
Regarding shutter control, it’s best to handle this carefully. A control system that reacts too sensitively to light conditions can be quite annoying on slightly cloudy days. In most cases, based on my experience, it has proven effective if shutters only respond to dusk in the evening and lower accordingly. At nightfall, it almost never causes problems, quite unlike the morning light. Due to changing wake-up times (shift work, school closures, illness, guests, vacation, flexible working hours, etc.), automated opening in the morning can frequently cause disturbances—at least in bedrooms. Many people eventually disable automatic morning opening for bedrooms and bathrooms. Bathrooms are particularly sensitive because in winter, with dull weather and the room light on, it may still be possible to see inside from outside even well after sunrise.
I would strongly advise against this! It’s dangerous if the intruder has already entered the house, and the shutters block the exit—leaving you standing in the doorway between the only escape route and the intruder.
Turning on lights inside and outside the entire house when the alarm triggers can certainly be useful, mostly as a deterrent and to scare intruders away. Exterior alarms, however, should be viewed skeptically due to the risk of false alarms. Phone notifications are definitely recommended. It can also be useful to have network cameras that activate when the alarm sounds and that can be accessed remotely via smartphone to check whether everything is okay, allowing you to deactivate the alarm remotely if necessary.
Smoke alarms with sirens should ideally turn on lights and raise shutters to keep escape routes clear. But even this function should not be implemented blindly. When using combined gas/smoke detectors, for example, the lights should not necessarily be turned on. (With motorized shutters, it is always important to carefully consider emergency escape routes in your home!!!)
When shutters are involved, you should always take into account the status of entrances and exits so you don’t lock yourself out. For example, it’s not enough to just check whether a patio door is closed; what matters more is whether it is locked. Patio doors are often simply left ajar in summer.
Generally, using status sensors is very helpful. There are smoke, gas, CO, CO2, humidity, and temperature sensors that can be used to regulate heating, ventilation, etc., for instance, to prevent mold. If sensors in a room report a temperature ≤16°C (61°F) and humidity >65%, the temperature can be raised to 18-19°C (64-66°F). I have successfully prevented mold issues in two side rooms of a community center this way. Also, ventilation can be controlled based on CO2 levels or humidity when high thresholds are exceeded.
Other useful functions include monitoring water levels in garden ponds, overflow alarms, and so on.
Regarding weather stations: In addition to controlling garden irrigation, they can enable responses to extreme events, such as raising or lowering awnings during strong storms. In many cases, however, an external weather station is not strictly necessary. Many automation hubs include databases with sunrise and sunset times for the region, and have online access to weather data, which is often sufficient—especially since weather tracking is usually done at a nearby location.
@demian
There are several systems available on the market for implementing these solutions:
In my opinion, the best option is KNX if you don’t mind the effort required for wiring. It is an open bus system with a public protocol and an extensive range of controllers, sensors, and actuators. There are also many bridges to other automation systems. It is mainly used in commercial buildings.
If you prefer a wireless solution that is not completely closed, look into EnOcean. Thanks to battery-free wireless actuators, maintenance is reduced.
For private homes, I personally find Homematic by EQ3 to be quite good. The system is fairly flexible due to a large selection of wireless actuators and sensors. Despite being wireless, it is reliable because of its bidirectional bus system. The downside is that it is a closed proprietary system, though some efforts, such as through Quivicon, aim to increase openness. Bridges for integration with IPSymcon and for using older FS20 components are available.
EQ3 also produces the RWE Smarthome system, distributed by RWE. Currently, it offers limited sensor and actuator options. While the hardware is compatible with Homematic, their different bus protocols mean components cannot be mixed or swapped—at least not yet. The big advantage is simple configuration. For more details, it’s best to check relevant forums where you can find many ideas for practical—and sometimes impractical—setups.
Despite all the technical features and gadgets, remember that habits change. Therefore, less automation is often more, especially if the time saved and comfort gained is consumed by ongoing management. The goal of automation is not to save on the basic house installation but to add and link a logic layer. A properly set up system does not require constant administration. After a few years, even hobby administrators and homeowners want the same: to stop constantly reprogramming, explaining over the phone how to operate the TV, or acting as the children’s friends’ personal light switch. This usually happens after the whole circle of friends and acquaintances has seen what the house can do and everyday life settles in.
And when
then that’s not intelligent or smart, it’s just plain bad.
That doesn’t mean it can’t be better!
Access control: By integrating motorized locks and RFID keys, you can grant certain people access only at specific times. For example, allowing the cleaner access only on Wednesday mornings, or letting a neighbor in remotely from work at the push of a button to let the meter reader in, etc. This can also be used to improve presence/absence management.
Regarding shutter control, it’s best to handle this carefully. A control system that reacts too sensitively to light conditions can be quite annoying on slightly cloudy days. In most cases, based on my experience, it has proven effective if shutters only respond to dusk in the evening and lower accordingly. At nightfall, it almost never causes problems, quite unlike the morning light. Due to changing wake-up times (shift work, school closures, illness, guests, vacation, flexible working hours, etc.), automated opening in the morning can frequently cause disturbances—at least in bedrooms. Many people eventually disable automatic morning opening for bedrooms and bathrooms. Bathrooms are particularly sensitive because in winter, with dull weather and the room light on, it may still be possible to see inside from outside even well after sunrise.
kaho674 schrieb:
My husband was thinking of an alarm system. When it goes off, all the shutters go down,
I would strongly advise against this! It’s dangerous if the intruder has already entered the house, and the shutters block the exit—leaving you standing in the doorway between the only escape route and the intruder.
Exterior lights start flashing in a circle around the house and all indoor lights turn on. Also, of course, a notification is sent to the phone. I then told him that after the first false alarm, we’d be known all over town and asked if he really wanted that.
Turning on lights inside and outside the entire house when the alarm triggers can certainly be useful, mostly as a deterrent and to scare intruders away. Exterior alarms, however, should be viewed skeptically due to the risk of false alarms. Phone notifications are definitely recommended. It can also be useful to have network cameras that activate when the alarm sounds and that can be accessed remotely via smartphone to check whether everything is okay, allowing you to deactivate the alarm remotely if necessary.
Smoke alarms with sirens should ideally turn on lights and raise shutters to keep escape routes clear. But even this function should not be implemented blindly. When using combined gas/smoke detectors, for example, the lights should not necessarily be turned on. (With motorized shutters, it is always important to carefully consider emergency escape routes in your home!!!)
When shutters are involved, you should always take into account the status of entrances and exits so you don’t lock yourself out. For example, it’s not enough to just check whether a patio door is closed; what matters more is whether it is locked. Patio doors are often simply left ajar in summer.
Generally, using status sensors is very helpful. There are smoke, gas, CO, CO2, humidity, and temperature sensors that can be used to regulate heating, ventilation, etc., for instance, to prevent mold. If sensors in a room report a temperature ≤16°C (61°F) and humidity >65%, the temperature can be raised to 18-19°C (64-66°F). I have successfully prevented mold issues in two side rooms of a community center this way. Also, ventilation can be controlled based on CO2 levels or humidity when high thresholds are exceeded.
Other useful functions include monitoring water levels in garden ponds, overflow alarms, and so on.
Regarding weather stations: In addition to controlling garden irrigation, they can enable responses to extreme events, such as raising or lowering awnings during strong storms. In many cases, however, an external weather station is not strictly necessary. Many automation hubs include databases with sunrise and sunset times for the region, and have online access to weather data, which is often sufficient—especially since weather tracking is usually done at a nearby location.
@demian
There are several systems available on the market for implementing these solutions:
In my opinion, the best option is KNX if you don’t mind the effort required for wiring. It is an open bus system with a public protocol and an extensive range of controllers, sensors, and actuators. There are also many bridges to other automation systems. It is mainly used in commercial buildings.
If you prefer a wireless solution that is not completely closed, look into EnOcean. Thanks to battery-free wireless actuators, maintenance is reduced.
For private homes, I personally find Homematic by EQ3 to be quite good. The system is fairly flexible due to a large selection of wireless actuators and sensors. Despite being wireless, it is reliable because of its bidirectional bus system. The downside is that it is a closed proprietary system, though some efforts, such as through Quivicon, aim to increase openness. Bridges for integration with IPSymcon and for using older FS20 components are available.
EQ3 also produces the RWE Smarthome system, distributed by RWE. Currently, it offers limited sensor and actuator options. While the hardware is compatible with Homematic, their different bus protocols mean components cannot be mixed or swapped—at least not yet. The big advantage is simple configuration. For more details, it’s best to check relevant forums where you can find many ideas for practical—and sometimes impractical—setups.
Despite all the technical features and gadgets, remember that habits change. Therefore, less automation is often more, especially if the time saved and comfort gained is consumed by ongoing management. The goal of automation is not to save on the basic house installation but to add and link a logic layer. A properly set up system does not require constant administration. After a few years, even hobby administrators and homeowners want the same: to stop constantly reprogramming, explaining over the phone how to operate the TV, or acting as the children’s friends’ personal light switch. This usually happens after the whole circle of friends and acquaintances has seen what the house can do and everyday life settles in.
And when
kaho674 schrieb:
At home with my mother, it’s no better—if he’s not there, she’s lost.
then that’s not intelligent or smart, it’s just plain bad.
That doesn’t mean it can’t be better!
J
Justifier18 Dec 2013 14:19DerBjoern schrieb:
If you want more detailed information, it’s best to check out specialized forums. There you’ll find countless ideas for practical as well as impractical wiring setups...Björn, do you have any recommendations for a good forum on this topic?
A few more answers to the questions:
The genius are the people who developed it… I’m really just a user.
The system is realized using KNX. One of the advantages is that the hardware can be combined freely, so you’re not tied to a single manufacturer and can install whatever you want. If something breaks or the manufacturer disappears from the market, you can replace the devices with others and only need to reprogram the system—then everything runs smoothly again.
Extra costs depend on what you want… you can keep it minimalistic or, like many others, build very large installations where every socket is individually controllable, etc. You can’t really define a fixed amount, but for a simple KNX installation you can expect roughly 3 times the cost. Most end up at about 10 times, because you want to add this and that… but you get 500% more convenience and information compared to a conventional installation. A big advantage is also that everything can be expanded or exchanged without breaking open walls.
Simply replace a 2-gang switch with an 8-gang switch and suddenly you have six more functions at exactly the same spot without running any cables.
The whole thing was planned together with a KNX company and implemented during construction… I did the programming myself. Retrofitting KNX is mostly nonsense… so if anything, do it from the start.
Sure, a lot can feel like gadgets or you might think that at first glance, but you’d be surprised how quickly you get used to automatic lighting and so on, and then don’t want to live without it…
I like to compare it to cars.
20-30 years ago, most average car buyers said, “Central locking and electric windows are just gimmicks, I don’t need those.” Nowadays, those features are standard in cars and you can hardly sell a vehicle without them.
You’re afraid of surveillance, but house automation also aims at that, even if many don’t want to admit it. Presence detectors always check whether someone is in the room… actuators monitor power consumption… cameras, if installed, watch outside and inside… window contacts monitor if windows are open or closed… and so on.
And as soon as you install an alarm system in your home—which you plan to do—you’re already taking a big step toward surveillance… you just have to decide where you draw the line for yourself, and whether you allow data to be transmitted externally via the internet, etc.
Oh, and here are a few options commonly found in houses:
- Window surrounds
- Shutters
- Fitted window films
- Wood/plastic windows, or something completely different
- Window glazing bars/muntins
- Special anti-pry protections
- Exterior window sills made of aluminum or marble
- Downpipes made of zinc, copper, or stainless steel
- Special gas fillings in windows
- Door handle styles and variants
- Type of roller shutter box (built-in, surface-mounted)
- Cylinder lock (security class, key profile, drill protection, etc.)
demian schrieb:
Awesome! Could you share some details about how you implemented the whole system? What hardware and system did you use, roughly how much extra did it cost compared to a conventional setup? Did you install everything from the start, or prepared it first and expanded it step by step?
I'm really interested since I’m planning something similar.
Ddx
The genius are the people who developed it… I’m really just a user.
The system is realized using KNX. One of the advantages is that the hardware can be combined freely, so you’re not tied to a single manufacturer and can install whatever you want. If something breaks or the manufacturer disappears from the market, you can replace the devices with others and only need to reprogram the system—then everything runs smoothly again.
Extra costs depend on what you want… you can keep it minimalistic or, like many others, build very large installations where every socket is individually controllable, etc. You can’t really define a fixed amount, but for a simple KNX installation you can expect roughly 3 times the cost. Most end up at about 10 times, because you want to add this and that… but you get 500% more convenience and information compared to a conventional installation. A big advantage is also that everything can be expanded or exchanged without breaking open walls.
Simply replace a 2-gang switch with an 8-gang switch and suddenly you have six more functions at exactly the same spot without running any cables.
The whole thing was planned together with a KNX company and implemented during construction… I did the programming myself. Retrofitting KNX is mostly nonsense… so if anything, do it from the start.
kaho674 schrieb:
@Mycraft: I’m really impressed.
I also think turning off unnecessary devices when nobody’s home is brilliant. Otherwise, many cool features, although to me some feel like just gadgets. It’s scary that the system knows if you’re in bed. Somehow that makes me feel monitored. Let’s see what my husband wants to add to our system. I’ll show him your list.
Sure, a lot can feel like gadgets or you might think that at first glance, but you’d be surprised how quickly you get used to automatic lighting and so on, and then don’t want to live without it…
I like to compare it to cars.
20-30 years ago, most average car buyers said, “Central locking and electric windows are just gimmicks, I don’t need those.” Nowadays, those features are standard in cars and you can hardly sell a vehicle without them.
You’re afraid of surveillance, but house automation also aims at that, even if many don’t want to admit it. Presence detectors always check whether someone is in the room… actuators monitor power consumption… cameras, if installed, watch outside and inside… window contacts monitor if windows are open or closed… and so on.
And as soon as you install an alarm system in your home—which you plan to do—you’re already taking a big step toward surveillance… you just have to decide where you draw the line for yourself, and whether you allow data to be transmitted externally via the internet, etc.
Oh, and here are a few options commonly found in houses:
- Window surrounds
- Shutters
- Fitted window films
- Wood/plastic windows, or something completely different
- Window glazing bars/muntins
- Special anti-pry protections
- Exterior window sills made of aluminum or marble
- Downpipes made of zinc, copper, or stainless steel
- Special gas fillings in windows
- Door handle styles and variants
- Type of roller shutter box (built-in, surface-mounted)
- Cylinder lock (security class, key profile, drill protection, etc.)
Hello,
For us, the following were important:
Power outlets near every window (for Christmas decorations or other lights)
Motion sensors in the hallway (convenient at night when frequently going to the bathroom or getting a drink)
Removable insect screens (it used to be a field with a lot of flying insects)
LAN connections in every room (kitchen for internet radio or various other devices)
Enough power outlets (our house is equipped with 95 outlets)
Electrical wiring installed outdoors for garden lighting and a shed
Bathroom with both a shower and bathtub, you never know
Burglary protection on windows and doors
Smoke detectors in every room, plus a water leak detector in the utility room (because of the washing machine) and a gas detector
For us, the following were important:
Power outlets near every window (for Christmas decorations or other lights)
Motion sensors in the hallway (convenient at night when frequently going to the bathroom or getting a drink)
Removable insect screens (it used to be a field with a lot of flying insects)
LAN connections in every room (kitchen for internet radio or various other devices)
Enough power outlets (our house is equipped with 95 outlets)
Electrical wiring installed outdoors for garden lighting and a shed
Bathroom with both a shower and bathtub, you never know
Burglary protection on windows and doors
Smoke detectors in every room, plus a water leak detector in the utility room (because of the washing machine) and a gas detector
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