ᐅ Solid wood parquet on underfloor heating

Created on: 12 Feb 2021 10:38
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Absinthe
Hello everyone,

Yesterday, we had an appointment at our hardwood flooring studio. We were recommended a solid hardwood floor from the company ALI Parquets. It is supposed to be fully glued down.

Another supplier recommended a two-layer engineered wood floor from Bauwerk.

Online, you often read that solid hardwood flooring is generally not suitable for underfloor heating. Is that true?

Unfortunately, I can’t find many reliable reviews about either manufacturer. Does anyone happen to have one of these installed in their home?

Best regards
ateliersiegel5 Feb 2022 12:37
HubiTrubi40 schrieb:

because I generally have a good feeling about the company

A rarely mentioned but, in my opinion, important factor in contracting skilled trades: "Which technique does the craftsman prefer?"
This affects the care taken during work ... and someone who enjoys what they do works better than someone who was persuaded to do something different. And perhaps the craftsman even masters this technique better.
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parcus
5 Feb 2022 12:46
If you can’t even be glad at the moment to find a skilled tradesperson with professional training,...
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HubiTrubi40
6 Feb 2022 10:40
ateliersiegel schrieb:

A rarely mentioned, but in my opinion important argument in skilled trade work: "Which installation method does the craftsman prefer?"

Thank you all for your opinions and tips. Somehow, I still can’t get this out of my mind. I did some more reading. With floating installation, it is often said that the parquet floors cannot be sanded and generally wear out faster because the joints between the planks are subjected to more stress. You also hear about sound transmission and even creaking floorboards everywhere. I’m just wondering why he suggests this method for my screed. It might be that he generally prefers floating installations, or that the subfloor is really in poor condition—but I don’t think that’s the case, at least not for the living room. And he wants to seal the crack in the screed anyway (which doesn’t make sense to me if it’s a floating floor).

Secondly, I wanted to ask if it is necessary to install these transition strips between rooms with floating installation, or if you can join the flooring continuously. He said it is necessary. He also might add a joint/strip in the living room if needed; there was previously a silicone joint between the tiles there. But that looks a bit awkward in the middle of the room with anodized aluminum, in my opinion.
ateliersiegel6 Feb 2022 11:34
I’m not a tradesperson trained in “the proper way,” but I’m happy to share my experiences.
Here are my thoughts regarding your questions:
Cracks occur where parts move while being held firmly elsewhere at the same time.
A crack in the screed indicates that such stresses exist there. Simply filling the crack won’t stop the movement. This movement happens (among other reasons) due to the different expansion and contraction of materials—and it doesn’t just stop over time, it continues indefinitely. To bridge a crack, something flexible is needed (often fiberglass mesh is used) to absorb the movement on.
If it’s clear that movement cannot be prevented, an expansion joint is installed deliberately at a planned location rather than leaving cracks to appear randomly.

A “floating” installation prevents stresses from the screed transferring into the floor covering (which would then cause cracks there). But if the floating surface area becomes too large, internal stresses (and possibly cracks) can still occur within the covering material itself.
For example, when wood is glued onto concrete, the wood will crack or its joints will open because it moves more than the concrete. To make wood adhere properly to concrete, adhesives with some elasticity are required. (Conversely, similar adhesives are used for tiles on wood.)

These issues are not always the same. There are cases where something works in one situation but fails in another. That’s why the safest option is usually chosen—even if other solutions might work—as you can’t always be 100% sure in advance.
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Benutzer200
6 Feb 2022 13:42
HubiTrubi40 schrieb:

It is often stated that parquet flooring installed as a floating floor should not be sanded afterward.

In my entire life, I've never met anyone who sanded their installed parquet floor. Only on older houses with existing floors.
HubiTrubi40 schrieb:

and it also generally wears out faster because the joints between the planks are more stressed

That's nonsense. Wear comes from walking on it and dropping things, etc. You don’t use the parquet differently just because it’s installed differently.
HubiTrubi40 schrieb:

You also read everywhere about sound transmission up to squeaking boards.

The sound of floating floors is indeed different. I don’t like it either. But squeaking boards should not occur.
HubiTrubi40 schrieb:

Whether you need these skirting boards everywhere between rooms for floating installation or if you can do without them. He said it’s necessary.

I agree with him on that.
HubiTrubi40 schrieb:

He might also want to add a gap/trim in the living room if necessary; there was previously a silicone joint between the tiles.

That depends on the room size.
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HubiTrubi40
2 Mar 2022 23:15
Hi everyone, the flooring will probably be installed as a floating floor. Due to the thin wear layer of 2.5 mm (0.1 inch) and the firm insistence of my floor installer, we are going ahead with the floating method. That said, I still have two concerns: Is floating installation at a disadvantage if water gets on the hardwood floor (we also have it in the dining area)? For example, a glass could be knocked over there. I’m worried that the water might spread underneath the impact sound insulation. With glued-down hardwood, this would be much less likely. Secondly, if a plank ever needs to be replaced, for example if the top veneer layer comes loose, isn’t that easier to do with glued-down flooring?