ᐅ Home Construction Features and Extras – What Can Be Included?
Created on: 19 Nov 2013 09:31
H
hululu0
Good morning,
I have put together a small list of extras and would appreciate any additional ideas you might have.
- In the ground floor living, dining, and kitchen areas, the electric switches should be controlled individually and connected in a “series circuit” to dim the lights.
- Controlled decentralized ventilation system with heat recovery.
- Preparation for photovoltaic system on the roof; missing on the garage roof.
- Two outdoor sockets on the ground floor.
- One outdoor connection for a light with motion sensor and switch on each side of the house.
- Three-phase power in the basement.
- Fireplace for a wood stove.
- Power supply in the garage.
- In the attic living, dining, and kitchen areas, leave the ceiling open up to the roof.
- Sliding doors with approximately 1.5 meters (5 feet) opening between the dining/living area and the hallway.
Thank you for your help.
I have put together a small list of extras and would appreciate any additional ideas you might have.
- In the ground floor living, dining, and kitchen areas, the electric switches should be controlled individually and connected in a “series circuit” to dim the lights.
- Controlled decentralized ventilation system with heat recovery.
- Preparation for photovoltaic system on the roof; missing on the garage roof.
- Two outdoor sockets on the ground floor.
- One outdoor connection for a light with motion sensor and switch on each side of the house.
- Three-phase power in the basement.
- Fireplace for a wood stove.
- Power supply in the garage.
- In the attic living, dining, and kitchen areas, leave the ceiling open up to the roof.
- Sliding doors with approximately 1.5 meters (5 feet) opening between the dining/living area and the hallway.
Thank you for your help.
Interesting discussion
I tend to agree more with Mycraft’s view: the purpose of home automation is to automate specific processes. If I try to replicate a traditional installation using bus components, I’m just wasting a lot of money, and it’s not really “smart.”
On the other hand, a fully automated process in the house goes too far and feels more like the house is controlling you. I don’t want the north-facing blinds to automatically lower to 50%, the lights dimmed, and the phone muted every time I watch a movie. But I also don’t want seven separate switches for the blinds in the living area on the wall.
The only room in my house without any switches (or push-buttons) is the guest bathroom. In the other rooms, many are equipped with presence detectors, but I still have the possibility to manually intervene using wall-mounted push-buttons.
Turning lights on/off and raising/lowering blinds is controlled the traditional way next to the door in every room. Only in the living area have I skipped this because of the mentioned seven blinds; instead, there is a touch panel on the wall that can be used to control them if desired.
I tend to agree more with Mycraft’s view: the purpose of home automation is to automate specific processes. If I try to replicate a traditional installation using bus components, I’m just wasting a lot of money, and it’s not really “smart.”
On the other hand, a fully automated process in the house goes too far and feels more like the house is controlling you. I don’t want the north-facing blinds to automatically lower to 50%, the lights dimmed, and the phone muted every time I watch a movie. But I also don’t want seven separate switches for the blinds in the living area on the wall.
The only room in my house without any switches (or push-buttons) is the guest bathroom. In the other rooms, many are equipped with presence detectors, but I still have the possibility to manually intervene using wall-mounted push-buttons.
Turning lights on/off and raising/lowering blinds is controlled the traditional way next to the door in every room. Only in the living area have I skipped this because of the mentioned seven blinds; instead, there is a touch panel on the wall that can be used to control them if desired.
D
DerBjoern17 Dec 2013 15:24@Boergi
Where do your statements contradict mine? Of course, the goal of home automation is to automate processes. However, the goal is not to eliminate switches. (By the way, that is not the goal of the bus system either; it is only a component of home automation.)
I was saying that over-automation should be avoided. Also, that manual intervention must be possible. Above all, it is not about saving switches.
Where do your statements contradict mine? Of course, the goal of home automation is to automate processes. However, the goal is not to eliminate switches. (By the way, that is not the goal of the bus system either; it is only a component of home automation.)
I was saying that over-automation should be avoided. Also, that manual intervention must be possible. Above all, it is not about saving switches.
Mycraft schrieb:
these statements only confirm my assumptions even more... I’m opting out here... No! This is great, please don’t stop! Share what kind of automation you have set up. My husband thought about a security alarm system. When it’s triggered, all the roller shutters go down, the exterior lighting system starts flashing around the house, and all the lights inside the house turn on. Of course, a notification is sent to the phone as well. I then told him that after the first false alarm, we’d be known throughout the city and asked if he really wanted that.
@kaho674
I’m happy to answer your questions...
We have automated everything possible without needing an extra home server or similar.
I already mentioned the weather station; it sends data to the bus system, and the roller shutters go up in the morning and down in the evening—not at fixed times, but based on when the sun rises or sets. On weekends, they operate a bit later because people tend to sleep in.
When it rains, the display in the hallway notifies you and reminds you to take an umbrella, and it also sends a signal to the garden irrigation system.
During strong sunlight and/or when the TV is on, the south-facing side is shaded.
If a roller shutter is down and you want to open it, for example to go onto the terrace, you just open the window and the roller shutter automatically goes up. It goes down again after a preset time automatically for all windows—except the terrace, where additional conditions have to be met so you don’t lock yourself out.
When you come home and enter the property, the lights in the entrance area turn on.
If there is new mail in the mailbox, the display in the hallway shows POST!
The whole house (140 sqm (1500 sq ft), 11 rooms) uses just 7 control points and two displays (hallway and bedroom). This setup wasn’t just my idea; it’s based on recommendations from many homeowners and pioneers in home automation. You don’t really need all those light switches anymore with an automated house. Speech control will probably be added in early 2014, and then at least two more control points will become obsolete.
There are also alarms or notifications if windows are open or tilted, or if the front door is open or locked.
At night, the lights in bathrooms and similar areas come on dimmed to 60%, so you don’t get blinded if you get up in the middle of the night.
The lights in the kitchen, guest toilet, hallway, bathroom, and gallery turn on and off via presence detectors.
The heating system runs separately from the bus but is set to maintain at least 22°C (72°F) in the house at all times, regardless of the outside weather—except in summer, when indoor temperatures rise once it’s about 28°C (82°F) outside.
Everything can be controlled via iPhone/iPad.
Further automation features are planned for the future, but for now this is sufficient. Over the years, I’ve met many homeowners and planners/engineers in the field, and it’s impressive how much effort some put into their systems.
I’m happy to answer your questions...
We have automated everything possible without needing an extra home server or similar.
I already mentioned the weather station; it sends data to the bus system, and the roller shutters go up in the morning and down in the evening—not at fixed times, but based on when the sun rises or sets. On weekends, they operate a bit later because people tend to sleep in.
When it rains, the display in the hallway notifies you and reminds you to take an umbrella, and it also sends a signal to the garden irrigation system.
During strong sunlight and/or when the TV is on, the south-facing side is shaded.
If a roller shutter is down and you want to open it, for example to go onto the terrace, you just open the window and the roller shutter automatically goes up. It goes down again after a preset time automatically for all windows—except the terrace, where additional conditions have to be met so you don’t lock yourself out.
When you come home and enter the property, the lights in the entrance area turn on.
If there is new mail in the mailbox, the display in the hallway shows POST!
The whole house (140 sqm (1500 sq ft), 11 rooms) uses just 7 control points and two displays (hallway and bedroom). This setup wasn’t just my idea; it’s based on recommendations from many homeowners and pioneers in home automation. You don’t really need all those light switches anymore with an automated house. Speech control will probably be added in early 2014, and then at least two more control points will become obsolete.
There are also alarms or notifications if windows are open or tilted, or if the front door is open or locked.
At night, the lights in bathrooms and similar areas come on dimmed to 60%, so you don’t get blinded if you get up in the middle of the night.
The lights in the kitchen, guest toilet, hallway, bathroom, and gallery turn on and off via presence detectors.
The heating system runs separately from the bus but is set to maintain at least 22°C (72°F) in the house at all times, regardless of the outside weather—except in summer, when indoor temperatures rise once it’s about 28°C (82°F) outside.
Everything can be controlled via iPhone/iPad.
Further automation features are planned for the future, but for now this is sufficient. Over the years, I’ve met many homeowners and planners/engineers in the field, and it’s impressive how much effort some put into their systems.
Brilliant! Could you share some details about how you implemented the whole setup? What hardware and system did you use? Approximately how much extra did it cost compared to a conventional system? Did you install everything right from the start, or did you prepare everything first and then expand gradually?
I’m really interested because I’m planning something similar.
Ddx
I’m really interested because I’m planning something similar.
Ddx
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