ᐅ Retaining Higher-Level Neighboring Properties: L-Shaped Retaining Walls and Tips

What prices are currently being asked?

I am still waiting for quotes. It is not exactly cheap, but I also need a few meters (yards).

jaenno1 schrieb:

@Yaso2.0 Angle retaining walls. I took all the existing height levels and then created nearly to-scale terrain cross-sections in AutoCAD. I then considered how the terrain could be modeled/shaped in the respective areas and from that determined the height of my L-shaped concrete blocks. The inquiry is currently with the supplier..., but it’s not going to be cheap.

Is the inquiry just for the blocks or for the full installation?

Who would you hire for that, a landscape contractor or a road construction company?

I also need some L-shaped blocks…

jaenno1 schrieb:

I also need L-shaped blocks designed for reverse load cases because the neighboring plots are higher, but I can’t orient the base of the block towards the neighbors.

Those are much more expensive.

How do you calculate the required height of the block?

For example: if 150cm (59 inches) needs to be retained plus 10cm (4 inches) of “overflow protection” towards the other property, then the L-shaped block also has an embedment depth of 10-15cm (4-6 inches).

So I would have to add 150cm (59 inches) + 10cm (4 inches) + 10/15cm (4/6 inches) to determine the required block size, correct?

Just as an idea: What do you think about setting the L-shaped concrete block one meter (3 feet) away from the neighbor’s boundary and then building a kind of raised bed one meter (3 feet) wide on top of it? You can plant it nicely, and the L-shaped block will have its base entirely on your property.

Yaso2.0 schrieb:

How do you calculate the height of the block that is ultimately needed?

Example: you need to support 150cm (59 inches) plus 10cm (4 inches) as an "overflow protection" toward the neighboring property, then the base leg of the block also requires an embedment depth (10–15cm / 4–6 inches).

So I would have to calculate 150cm + 10cm + 10/15cm to determine the required block height, right?

Plus the depth you need to bury the block on your side to ensure sufficient stability.

Yaso2.0 schrieb:

So, I need to calculate 150cm (60 inches) + 10cm (4 inches) + 10/15cm (4/6 inches) to determine the required block, right?
Yep.

Yaso2.0 schrieb:

They are supposed to be significantly more expensive.

That may be true, but I have no other option. Unless I give up a lot of land and shift further into my own property as shown below? Is it worth it? You also need to fill in that area, which costs money, right? Better to pay 20% more for the visible side on the inside. Anthracite is definitely, at least for me, the “suspenders holding up the belt”…

Yaso2.0 schrieb:

Who do you hire for that, a landscaper or a road construction worker?

Either can do it. We handle it ourselves as road builders.

Landscapers are probably cheaper, depending on the kind of road construction workers you find. Often, they’re part of the construction industry and work under collective agreements. I don’t want to start a debate, but based on what you sometimes see in landscaping work (GALA construction), we wouldn’t get approval for that in road construction… but it’s usually good enough for private gardens.

In terms of design, landscapers are usually superior to road builders. We can manage a bit of shaping, though… 😉

BBaumeister schrieb:

Just an idea: What do you think about setting the L-shaped block one meter (3 feet) away from the neighbor, and then building a kind of raised bed one meter (3 feet) wide above it? You could plant it nicely, and the block’s base would be entirely on your property.

That’s also an option. 😉

Stefan001 schrieb:

Plus the depth you need to bury the block on your side for sufficient stability.

Exactly. For me, I calculated the footing thickness plus 30cm (12 inches) for the topsoil, and—for example, on the driveway—paving plus crushed stone base course. That should be fine. 😉

However, I should add that on my higher side there are no traffic loads. So I’m pretty relaxed about the installation. Usually, “inverted L retaining walls” are also reinforced to resist pressure from the opposite side.

Sorry, I’m very busy with work and just jotting this down quickly. Please don’t mind any spelling mistakes. 😉