ᐅ Solid wood parquet on underfloor heating

Created on: 12 Feb 2021 10:38
A
Absinthe
Hello everyone,

Yesterday, we had an appointment at our hardwood flooring studio. We were recommended a solid hardwood floor from the company ALI Parquets. It is supposed to be fully glued down.

Another supplier recommended a two-layer engineered wood floor from Bauwerk.

Online, you often read that solid hardwood flooring is generally not suitable for underfloor heating. Is that true?

Unfortunately, I can’t find many reliable reviews about either manufacturer. Does anyone happen to have one of these installed in their home?

Best regards
Tolentino18 Jan 2022 12:30
RotorMotor schrieb:

To compensate for heat transfer/loss to the outside, heat must be supplied through the heating system.
If, due to insulation from impact soundproofing, air layers (and the parquet flooring itself, which has high insulation), the heat from the heating system is transferred into the room more "poorly" or "slowly," then the supply temperature must be higher.
As a result, the system not only acts as a carrier but also consumes more energy!


Hmm, that doesn’t match my understanding of the thermal principles, but I could be wrong.
As mentioned, with a constant indoor temperature maintained, in my opinion, this should not matter.
It’s like a pot with holes where you want to maintain a certain water level. Whether or not you place a glass inside makes no difference to the total inflow needed once the glass inside the pot is already overflowing. Yes, it takes longer to reach the desired level starting from zero, but if you don’t change the inflow (into the glass) or the holes in the pot afterwards, the inflow can remain the same.
Of course, the weather causes the holes to become larger or smaller, but a modern heating system would adjust the inflow accordingly. The glass remains the same size, and the desired level should always stay the same.
You only run into problems if someone wants more or less water in the pot for a short period.
R
RotorMotor
18 Jan 2022 13:14
Tolentino schrieb:

Hmm, that doesn’t match my understanding of the thermal relationships, but I could be wrong.
Where exactly is the mistake in my explanation?
Tolentino schrieb:

As I said, if the indoor temperature is kept constant, in my opinion that shouldn’t matter.
It’s like a pot with holes where you want to maintain a certain water level. Whether you put a glass in it or not makes no difference to the total inflow needed once the glass inside the pot is overflowing. Yes, it takes longer to reach the desired level from zero, but if you don’t change the inflow (into the glass) or the holes in the pot afterward, the inflow can remain the same.
Of course, the weather makes the holes bigger or smaller, but a modern heating system would adjust the inflow accordingly. The glass always stays the same size, and the desired level should always remain the same.
You only get problems if someone wants more or less water in the pot for a short time.
When making such comparisons, it makes sense to clarify what each element corresponds to in the real world.
So what is the water, the pot, the glass, and so on?
I find the glass particularly unclear.

Although it’s not easy for me, I’ll try to follow your example:
Water is heat, the pot is the house, and the holes represent heat loss to the outside.

Here the inflow must be regulated depending on the holes to maintain a constant level (temperature).
Let’s imagine the inflow as a hose. A floor covering with low heat transfer (glued parquet, floating parquet, carpet, ...) is like a narrow hose, while a floor covering with high heat transfer (tiles, vinyl, ...) is like a thick hose.
Now the pump must generate higher pressure with the narrow hose than with the thick hose to get the same amount of water into the pot. In reality, this means a warmer supply temperature and higher energy consumption.

In general, inertia, slowness, and so on seem to be confused here.
If it takes longer to transfer energy—that is, more time (hours) for the same amount of energy (kWh)—this means the power (kW) decreases.

To increase the power again so that the house doesn’t get colder, the supply temperature must be raised.
Tolentino18 Jan 2022 13:32
Thank you for trying to stay on topic.
The glass acted as an additional air layer for me. From my understanding, once the glass is fully saturated, it essentially doesn’t matter whether it is there or not.
In your example, it doesn’t matter if the hose is thinner, as long as my pot can maintain the required water level.
You assume that, just to maintain the water level, a higher total flow rate is needed than what the thinner hose can provide at the same water volume.
I think this is only possible if the holes in the pot (i.e., the heat loss of the house) are larger than the maximum output of the hose at the same pressure. Or, in practical terms, the heat transfer coefficient of the thin air layer between the parquet and the heated screed must be lower than that of the building envelope. I find that unlikely.
However, I could be completely wrong—I dropped physics relatively early, and as far as I remember, we never covered thermodynamics.
The point about performance does make some sense; the question is whether it still applies if the air layer under the parquet has already reached the supply temperature.
R
RotorMotor
18 Jan 2022 13:53
Tolentino schrieb:

The glass acted as an additional air layer for me.

So for you, that functions as a sort of thermal storage?

However, the insulating floor covering does not act as storage but rather as an insulator.
Thermal storage usually involves mass—such as steel, concrete, stone, and so on.
These are exactly the materials that provide thermal inertia.
Insulators, on the other hand, prevent heat transfer. For example, supply temperature of 30°C (86°F) → room temperature of 21°C (70°F).
A difference of 9°C (16°F). With a good insulator, I might need 33°C (91°F), which gives a difference of 12°C (22°F).
And this difference does not decrease over time.
Tolentino schrieb:

You assume that to maintain the level, a higher total flow is needed than what the thinner pipe can provide at the same amount of water.
I think that can work.

The example with pipes and so forth seems poorly chosen, as there are misunderstandings here too.
I assume that water flows out through holes, and this must be replenished through the pipe.
If I want to keep the flow constant, then with a thinner pipe the flow velocity must increase.
Tolentino schrieb:

The question is whether this still applies if the air layer under the parquet has already reached the supply temperature.

That will never happen during heating, because for example: supply temperature 30°C (86°F), air layer 25°C (77°F), room temperature 20°C (68°F).
Tolentino18 Jan 2022 14:18
RotorMotor schrieb:

So for you, is it a kind of storage then?
More as a side effect and so small that it would be a poor storage if you tried to use it as one.
RotorMotor schrieb:

But the insulating floor covering doesn’t act as storage, it acts as an insulator.

Insulators prevent heat transfer. For example, 30°C (86°F) supply temperature -> 21°C (70°F) room temperature.
A delta of 9 degrees. With a good insulator, I would need about 33°C (91°F), so a delta of 12 degrees.
And this difference doesn’t decrease over time.
So you mean that with a constant supply temperature and a fixed outdoor temperature, the indoor temperature with an air gap will always be lower than without it, no matter how long you wait?
Where does the energy go then?
RotorMotor schrieb:

The example with pipes and so on doesn’t seem well chosen, because there are misunderstandings here too.
I assume the water flows out through holes. It has to flow back through the pipe.
If I want to keep the flow constant, I have to increase the flow speed when the pipe diameter is smaller.
But we don’t want to keep the flow constant; we want to keep the level stable. My thesis is that while initially you might need to increase the flow, afterwards it doesn’t matter how much water flows from the pipes, as long as it’s the same amount as flows out of the holes. And that is exactly the same amount of water (heat) as before. Maybe the analogy doesn’t fit well — do you have another image that better represents the reality?
RotorMotor schrieb:

That will never happen while heating, because for example supply temperature 30°C (86°F), air gap 25°C (77°F), room temperature 20°C (68°F).
And you mean without the air gap the room temperature could be, for example, 22°C (72°F) or the supply temperature 28°C (82°F)?
Then again, my question is: where does the heat disappear to (in the analogy, where does the water go)?
ateliersiegel18 Jan 2022 14:21
The examples seem a bit too complicated to me (not: they are too complicated, but to me they are …)

Heat does not simply disappear (as it might seem), but it moves toward where it can be balanced.
For example, in winter, from the warm interior to the cold outside.

If it is inside a warm heating pipe, it wants to go to the cold room.
If it is in the room, it wants to move outside, into the snow.

Where there is insulation, it moves slowly; where there is a good heat conductor, it moves faster.

The faster it flows out of the room through the building’s walls, the faster you have to heat to keep the inside from getting colder.
If it flows from the heating pipe into the room as fast (or faster) as it moves from the room outside, then “everything should be fine.”

Right?