Hello,
I have a question.
In my bathroom, the tiling on both sides of the door only goes halfway up the wall, about 120cm (47 inches).
This leaves a gap of approximately 1cm (0.4 inches) between the wall, tile, and door frame above the 120cm (47 inches) mark.
What are the best or most visually appealing ways to address this gap?
I would really appreciate any help!
I have a question.
In my bathroom, the tiling on both sides of the door only goes halfway up the wall, about 120cm (47 inches).
This leaves a gap of approximately 1cm (0.4 inches) between the wall, tile, and door frame above the 120cm (47 inches) mark.
What are the best or most visually appealing ways to address this gap?
I would really appreciate any help!
Hello everyone, I’m now facing the same question.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the different options?
1. Tiles only up to the assumed future tile position
Pros:
- You can continue working for now
Cons:
- It’s unlikely to be very precise, later the joint might turn into a gap, or you have to leave a lot of space now and tile closely later – I would probably have to do that myself because hiring someone for that would be expensive and create a mess (dust from tile cutting) that you really don’t want afterward.
- The joint will always be visible from the front later on
2. Tiles right up to the door opening and install the door frame on top of the tiles later
Pros:
- You can continue working for now
- The tiler doesn’t need to come back later / you don’t have to tile yourself afterward
- No visible joint from the front
Cons:
- Gap/joint between the frame and wall from the side view
a) Fill the gap above the tile height with acrylic sealant
Pros:
- Probably the easiest option
Cons:
- Appearance from the side is not great
- Is it technically correct? Perhaps not ideal?
- Dust and dirt catchment?
b) Cut out a rebate/groove in the door frame
Pros:
- Probably the cleanest visual solution
Cons:
- Not very easy to do by yourself, especially with a height of 120cm (47 inches) there is a fairly long cut needed. If the wall and tiles are not perfectly straight, a joint might still occur...
c) Use a finishing strip
Pros:
- Also a clean aesthetic solution, probably the second easiest technically
Cons:
- Finishing strips are usually designed for the opposite side, i.e., for the tile side. How do you fix this to a door frame? Or are there special finishing strips made for frames?
Do you have any additional points?
How was it done in your case and are you satisfied with it?
Who has done this themselves and can share insights on the difficulty?
Side question:
People usually install L-profiles or square edge profiles on the vertical outside corners of tiled walls and possibly on the horizontal edges of boxed-in sections.
The top edge of the tiled walls at 120cm (47 inches) height, the tiler now doesn’t want to include as part of the flat-rate price. He says this is usually done with acrylic sealant and then by the painter.
I originally thought this would all be concealed with L-profiles. He doesn’t recommend that because it would look “too much” and close everything off too tightly.
Either way, both acrylic sealing or adding a profile everywhere would be additional work. That’s fine, the prices are already low anyway.
I’m more interested in how you would do it or have done it...
Looking forward to your feedback, thanks and best regards
Tolentino
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the different options?
1. Tiles only up to the assumed future tile position
Pros:
- You can continue working for now
Cons:
- It’s unlikely to be very precise, later the joint might turn into a gap, or you have to leave a lot of space now and tile closely later – I would probably have to do that myself because hiring someone for that would be expensive and create a mess (dust from tile cutting) that you really don’t want afterward.
- The joint will always be visible from the front later on
2. Tiles right up to the door opening and install the door frame on top of the tiles later
Pros:
- You can continue working for now
- The tiler doesn’t need to come back later / you don’t have to tile yourself afterward
- No visible joint from the front
Cons:
- Gap/joint between the frame and wall from the side view
a) Fill the gap above the tile height with acrylic sealant
Pros:
- Probably the easiest option
Cons:
- Appearance from the side is not great
- Is it technically correct? Perhaps not ideal?
- Dust and dirt catchment?
b) Cut out a rebate/groove in the door frame
Pros:
- Probably the cleanest visual solution
Cons:
- Not very easy to do by yourself, especially with a height of 120cm (47 inches) there is a fairly long cut needed. If the wall and tiles are not perfectly straight, a joint might still occur...
c) Use a finishing strip
Pros:
- Also a clean aesthetic solution, probably the second easiest technically
Cons:
- Finishing strips are usually designed for the opposite side, i.e., for the tile side. How do you fix this to a door frame? Or are there special finishing strips made for frames?
Do you have any additional points?
How was it done in your case and are you satisfied with it?
Who has done this themselves and can share insights on the difficulty?
Side question:
People usually install L-profiles or square edge profiles on the vertical outside corners of tiled walls and possibly on the horizontal edges of boxed-in sections.
The top edge of the tiled walls at 120cm (47 inches) height, the tiler now doesn’t want to include as part of the flat-rate price. He says this is usually done with acrylic sealant and then by the painter.
I originally thought this would all be concealed with L-profiles. He doesn’t recommend that because it would look “too much” and close everything off too tightly.
Either way, both acrylic sealing or adding a profile everywhere would be additional work. That’s fine, the prices are already low anyway.
I’m more interested in how you would do it or have done it...
Looking forward to your feedback, thanks and best regards
Tolentino
Tolentino schrieb:
For me, it’s more about how you would do it or how you have done it... Top edge of tiles and window sills sealed with silicone/acrylic by the tiler.
Base tiles are always left out in front of the door frames and finished after door installation (tiler takes about 4 hours); a general contractor is also possible.
Wipe edges on surfaces, stainless steel profiles.
Tilers are very skilled with silicone/acrylic but usually want a special certification for it.
M
motorradsilke7 Jan 2022 22:18We have both methods. In the guest toilet, the tiler first laid tiles up to the edge. The door frame was installed afterwards. This left a gap of about 1 cm (0.4 inches) at the top. I still need to seal that with acrylic. I’ve already filled the gap with grout fillers, but a lot of acrylic will still be needed, and honestly, it doesn’t look very neat. In the guest toilet, it’s less noticeable because it’s not visible from the side. Where it is visible, I wouldn’t want it like that.
In the bathroom, a different tiler initially left the last tile out, the door frame was installed, and then the tiler came back to tile around the frame. The joint was filled with tile-colored silicone. That looks much better, and that’s how I would always do it. It doesn’t create dirt, and if any electric cutting is needed, it can be done outside. This was also agreed upon with the tiler and was totally fine for him. You could also do this yourself if you feel confident laying tiles.
For the skirting boards in the hallway next to the tiles there, I also installed them after fitting the door frames. First, I tiled, then the door frames were installed, and afterwards, I glued the skirting boards completely. I would do it that way again. We also cut those outside because it’s travertine, which requires electric cutting.
In the bathroom, a different tiler initially left the last tile out, the door frame was installed, and then the tiler came back to tile around the frame. The joint was filled with tile-colored silicone. That looks much better, and that’s how I would always do it. It doesn’t create dirt, and if any electric cutting is needed, it can be done outside. This was also agreed upon with the tiler and was totally fine for him. You could also do this yourself if you feel confident laying tiles.
For the skirting boards in the hallway next to the tiles there, I also installed them after fitting the door frames. First, I tiled, then the door frames were installed, and afterwards, I glued the skirting boards completely. I would do it that way again. We also cut those outside because it’s travertine, which requires electric cutting.
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