ᐅ Ground Source Heat Pump for a 200 m² Single-Family Home with Underfloor Heating, KfW55 Standard – Settings and Optimization

Created on: 4 Nov 2021 20:21
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grericht
Hello. We moved into our new single-family house in March. I didn’t make any adjustments to the heating system at that time. Now that the temperatures are rising, I’ve started to take a closer look at it.

House details:
  • Single-family house with a (heated) basement + 2.5 floors (usable gable roof/also underfloor heating) -> 4 heating circuits
  • approximately 200 m² (2150 sq ft) of underfloor heating
  • 2 bathrooms WITHOUT additional heating
  • kfw55 energy standard
  • ventilation system with heat recovery
  • Currently 2 rooms in the basement are unoccupied/unutilized + the technical room
  • There are also 2 children’s rooms in the attic that are unoccupied/unutilized

Heating system details (descriptions from the invoice):
  • High-efficiency brine/water heat pump Dimplex SI 8TU
  • High-efficiency brine system SZB 140E for brine/water heat pump with electronically controlled brine circulation pump Yonos Para 25/1-10
  • Multifunctional storage tank Geysir MTL-WP650 efficiency class B (150 mm (6 inches) insulation thickness) with connection options for multiple heat generators, with layering plate for large volume flows, capacity 850 liters (225 gallons), domestic hot water preparation using counterflow principle with stainless steel heat exchanger, including differential temperature controller and flow sensor for hot water tapping system
  • Hydraulic connection of the heat pump to the multifunctional storage tank with precision steel pipe 28x1.5 mm (1.1x0.06 inch) including insulation, 1 zone charging pump Dimplex UPH 75-25P with shut-off set, switchable between heating and domestic hot water charging
  • Integration of the heating system with heating circuit sets Easyflow DN 25 R1" with EPP insulation type 2 including 3-way mixing valve, mixing valve actuator and circulation pump Grundfos UPM3 Auto
  • (ERR in 3/4 of the rooms) - currently switched off
  • Cooling station Dimplex PKS 14 Econ for passive cooling via geothermal probes, consisting of heat exchanger, brine circulation pump, cooling modules for network operation with heat pump manager and temperature sensor
  • Room temperature controller Dimplex Smart RTC, for optimizing weather-compensated control via a reference room

My previous attempts:
  • Domestic Hot Water:
    • I first focused on the domestic hot water preparation. Initially, it was set to 50°C (122°F) with a 2° hysteresis. For Dimplex, this means that heating started again at 48°C (118°F). This setup was basically fine, but even without any hot water use, heating occurred 2-3 times a day. Since the pump ran only very briefly, the average summer consumption was about 0.7 kWh/day.
    • I then experimented with lowering the temperature, setting lockout periods, and increasing the hysteresis. Our "optimal consumption" turned out to be 50°C (122°F) and 7° hysteresis with lockout from 8 pm to 5 pm. This sometimes resulted in the pump not running for an entire day. However, energy use was only reduced to 0.5 kWh/day, meaning hardly any consumption reduction at the cost of noticeable comfort reductions. Currently, I am at 48°C (118°F) and 4° hysteresis with lockout from 10 pm to 5 pm. Since we mostly use hot water in the evening, this works well. For bathing or higher demand, the water is reheated if necessary. I am currently experimenting with 5 or 6 degrees hysteresis, as the heat loss during ongoing heating operation seems lower and we might be able to skip a day sometimes. We’ll see...
  • Now, regarding the heating, my attempts:
    • All ERRs switched off, heating circuits opened roughly by feel, and tried to adjust by regulation. Control was via fixed return flow temperature, which I tested between 23 and 26°C (73°F and 79°F). The consumption and COP results were very satisfactory. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the bathroom above 22°C (72°F) without other rooms becoming too warm (rooms quickly reached 22°C, which I find too high).
    • Turned the ERR back on in the children’s rooms.
    • After a one-week vacation during which I completely switched off the heating, I started over. I tried the recommended approach of fully opening the warmest room (bathroom) to about 2.2 liters/min (0.58 gallons/min) and then increasing the temperature until satisfied. But this meant the heating was massively oversized?! The heat pump came on about 20 times for 10-15 minutes each, the supply temperature was nicely between 30 and 33°C (86°F and 91°F) but the temperature felt like it never really got away from the heat pump’s threshold. I am attaching a picture of the behavior.
    • Suspecting insufficient flow and hesitant to adjust the heating pump, I slowly opened other rooms slightly.
    • I also tried increasing the fixed temperature to 27 or 28°C (81°F or 82°F) and used hysteresis to make the pump run less often but longer. I am now quite satisfied with the temperatures in the house. However, the numbers still look a bit odd to me. I believe there are now many rooms/areas/storage volumes with such low flow that “cooled down” mass just circulates in the loop and eventually reaches the return line repeatedly. I don’t mind that but I also do not want to risk any damage. I will attach another picture.
    • Lastly, I reduced the temperature at night and in the morning so the heating starts at favorable times. Currently, two starts of about 2-3 hours each are sufficient.


Questions:
  • Am I completely off track here or are these approaches generally valid? Unfortunately, I can’t really rely on the heating engineer. He is surely competent but firstly hardly reachable and secondly probably overwhelmed by such optimization considerations.
  • What about rooms that are unused? Should I use the screed as a buffer and keep them slightly heated (<0.5 liters/min (0.13 gallons/min)) anyway?
  • I increasingly believe that managing the large temperature difference between the bathroom at 23°C (73°F) and the rooms at 20.5°C (69°F) is not well controlled – is there really no alternative to an additional heat source? We only use the bathroom for about 2 hours and in the evening for 4 hours at 23°C (73°F). Otherwise, 21-22°C (70-72°F) would definitely be sufficient there.
  • Any tips on settings?

Personal preferences:
  • The underfloor heating is off in the bedroom – yet it quickly reaches 19-20°C (66-68°F), which is almost too warm.
  • In the 3 children’s rooms, the ERR closes from 5 pm to 3 am (for sleeping – with time delay)
  • Other rooms 20-21°C (68-70°F)
  • Open-plan kitchen/living room 21-22°C (70-72°F)
  • Bathrooms 23°C (73°F)

Diagram showing temperature and pressure trends as well as setpoint curves of several sensors over time.


Multiple lines showing temperature and pressure trends of a heating/hot water system over time.


Time course of multiple sensor values: temperatures, humidity and pressure with legend.


Chart with several lines: temperature and setpoint trends from HVAC sensors over time.
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Pumpernickel1
3 Jan 2022 11:55
grericht schrieb:

So, we have two meters and two tariffs. But we don't have a photovoltaic system yet, and I decided to try it out first. I didn't know beforehand how much heating energy we actually consume.
As expected, it looks very tight whether this is worthwhile—and that’s even without photovoltaics.
With photovoltaics, I would strongly advise against it because you inevitably reduce self-consumption, and that is the "most valuable self-generated electricity." At least, I don’t know of any way to connect the same photovoltaic system to two power circuits for self-consumption. You would probably have to decide on which circuit you want to use the generated electricity. You could assign it to the heat pump’s consumption (which doesn’t make sense because the photovoltaic output is high in summer, while the heat pump’s demand is high in winter) or to the house electricity (which means that in summer—and possibly even in winter—your house electricity is fully supplied by photovoltaics, but the heat pump runs 100% on your heat pump electricity tariff). To me, that risk is too high because you’d lose some nice winter sunshine hours to support the heat pump’s self-consumption there. However, this also depends on the type of photovoltaic system you have. If it only produces from spring to autumn, you could run the heat pump separately—but we have a south-facing roof at 50° pitch, so I expect some output even in winter.
As a last option, you could also “split” your photovoltaic system, meaning one inverter for the part of the system dedicated to the heat pump’s self-consumption and another for the house electricity. I’m not sure if there are flexible options to allocate production (e.g., mostly to the heat pump in winter, and about 20% to the heat pump and the rest to house electricity in summer). But the energy supplier would have to cooperate and install two bi-directional meters. I believe they usually reject this (at least for the heat pump electricity meter, they probably won’t allow it).
And as I said, even for us, a second meter probably isn’t worthwhile (I can only tell for sure in five months). For us, the (low) base fees of the second meter almost cancel out the cheaper kilowatt-hour price. But that also depends on how much heating output you produce annually and with what seasonal performance factor.
If you also factor in that the heat pump loses efficiency and comfort, sometimes running into an energy supply lockout, I think that as of July 1st, we’ll have only one meter. Then we can calmly approach the photovoltaic topic.

Thank you for your detailed post. It helped me a lot.
I roughly calculated it. A second meter will cost us between 800 and 1000€ (around 870 to 1087 USD). The monthly difference between one and two tariffs is about 15 to 20€ (roughly 16 to 22 USD) at best. But here the heat pump tariff can continually rise, reducing the price advantage over the years. Since we plan to install a photovoltaic system within the next two to three years anyway, we tend to choose the solution with one electricity meter.
Our electrician mentioned that we might need the space for a second meter someday (you never know what the future holds), so he would install a second meter. However, we will decline this option. Thanks.
G
grericht
3 Jan 2022 11:57
driver55 schrieb:

Where?
In the "orange" area, 2-3 K is recommended for the brine circuit and 6-7 K for the heating circuit.

What is the "orange" area?
Maybe I really misread it. I was quite surprised.
So far, at the end of the heating season, I have exactly 3 K difference:
brine outlet 8 (at the start of the heating period 9)
brine inlet 5 (at the start of the heating period rather 6)
Is that a good value? How much does the brine typically cool down by the end of the heating season? And what is a good starting value?

For the heating circuit, I only have a temperature difference of 5 degrees between the supply and return. What would that mean?
G
grericht
3 Jan 2022 12:00
Pumpernickel1 schrieb:

Thanks for your detailed post. It helped me a lot.
I roughly calculated the costs. A second meter will cost us between 800-1000€ (around $870-$1080). The monthly difference between single and dual tariff rates is about 15€-20€ (around $16-$22) at best. But even here, the heat pump tariff could continually increase, reducing the price advantage over time. Since we plan to install a photovoltaic system within the next 2-3 years anyway, we are leaning towards the solution with just one electricity meter.
Our electrician said that the space for a second meter might be useful in the future (you never know what’s coming), so he would install a second meter. But we will pass on this option. Thank you.

I think that’s a good decision. Still, just to ask again: why does the second meter cost you 800-1000€ (around $870-$1080)? For our new build, it didn’t cost a single cent. It just took up some space in the distribution board. We rent the meter from the energy supplier, and the electrician wouldn’t care whether he connects the compressor to one meter or a second one, right? Or did I miss something and unknowingly spend a lot on the test? The electrician said (though this may not be correct) that the costs wouldn’t differ.
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Pumpernickel1
3 Jan 2022 12:08
grericht schrieb:

I think that’s a good decision. Still, just to double-check: why does the second meter cost you 800-1000 EUR? In our new build, I believe it didn’t cost anything at all, just took up some space in the distribution board. We rent the meter from the energy supplier, and for the electrician, it shouldn’t matter whether the compressor is connected to one meter or a second one, right? Or did I miss something and actually invest a lot in the test? The electrician said (but that might not be accurate) that the costs wouldn’t really differ.

So, our electrician will be charging us this amount. He needs to install a larger meter cabinet with an additional meter for this. I haven’t received the exact quote yet, but it should be within that range.
G
grericht
3 Jan 2022 12:13
Pumpernickel1 schrieb:

So our electrician will charge us this amount. He needs to install a larger distribution board with an additional meter. I will get the exact figure later, but it should be in this range.

Our electrician convinced us to get the largest distribution board anyway. There was plenty of room for the second meter there. Now I just hope he didn’t charge extra for connecting the compressor to a different meter.
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guckuck2
3 Jan 2022 13:36
Pumpernickel1 schrieb:

So our electrician will charge us this amount. He needs to install a larger electrical meter cabinet with an additional meter. I will receive the exact figure later, but it will be in that range.


That is really the worst-case scenario if the cabinet needs to be replaced.

The modification cost us about €150 (around $165) for the electrician. The meters themselves, their installation, the timer switch for blackout periods, etc., are free of charge, provided by the metering point operator and covered by the basic fees.
I can only advise everyone to check whether significantly cheaper electricity tariffs for heat pumps are available. If the difference is marginal, however, I would recommend not switching—saving 10€ (around $11) per year isn’t worth the effort.