Hello, we have built a prefabricated basement and I plan to start the plastering work eventually. I have a question about the internal and external corners:
How would you plaster the internal corners (the typical room corners)? Currently, they are filled with foam. Would you embed a corner bead here or just seal it with acrylic?
We also have an external corner. The concrete wall is chamfered here. Are there corner beads designed for embedding in this case?
Thanks in advance for your answers.
How would you plaster the internal corners (the typical room corners)? Currently, they are filled with foam. Would you embed a corner bead here or just seal it with acrylic?
We also have an external corner. The concrete wall is chamfered here. Are there corner beads designed for embedding in this case?
Thanks in advance for your answers.
As I said, I am just an amateur and have no idea what the WU guideline specifies in terms of execution.
I only had this topic at our site, so I can only share how it was done with us and what the planners/contractors said about it.
How far does the foam penetrate into the component? With a prefabricated wall, this is quite obvious. It is hollow when it arrives. You can see that in the picture. You just need to look from above to check if the foam is pushing through to the inside or not.
I haven’t reread everything, but I believe the original poster did not say this was an execution according to WU basement waterproofing, “white tank” or anything else (these terms are often confused).
For us, vertical joint inserts were installed in the joint gaps. I was told that this is done in “white tank” construction to achieve watertightness. Whether the additional foaming of the joint gaps was just an extra precaution, I don’t know.
I only had this topic at our site, so I can only share how it was done with us and what the planners/contractors said about it.
How far does the foam penetrate into the component? With a prefabricated wall, this is quite obvious. It is hollow when it arrives. You can see that in the picture. You just need to look from above to check if the foam is pushing through to the inside or not.
I haven’t reread everything, but I believe the original poster did not say this was an execution according to WU basement waterproofing, “white tank” or anything else (these terms are often confused).
For us, vertical joint inserts were installed in the joint gaps. I was told that this is done in “white tank” construction to achieve watertightness. Whether the additional foaming of the joint gaps was just an extra precaution, I don’t know.
face26 schrieb:
but I believe the original poster didn’t say that this was a construction according to waterproof basement standards, a “white tank,” or anything else (terms that are often confused). That’s correct, he didn’t respond to my question. My mistake.
This is not understood by laypeople and is deliberately confused by those selling it to laypeople—that would be the right way to put it.
There is nothing to confuse here.
Waterproof basement, white tank, whatever you call it—it’s all the same. The only difference is that there is only one correct way to do it, which is outlined in the waterproofing guidelines. Since the term "waterproof basement" is not legally protected, a lot of nonsense is associated with it.
But from what I see, the willingness to be corrected here is not very high.
face26 schrieb:
Whether the additional foam sealing of the joint between the belt and the braces was correct, I don’t know. Uhhh—you mean the good old expanding foam? Yes, definitely.
I’ll bow out here now; carry on with the technical discussion.
Jann St schrieb:
But as I see it, the incentive to be taught here isn’t very high.By whom?
Jann St schrieb:
I’ll step out now, enjoy your technical discussions.And why so offended right away?
Jann St schrieb:
2. I would avoid using profiles at interior corners whenever possible and instead seal them, since we expect annual movement there that can cause cracks. Sealing allows you to easily touch up the area later.
3. For the internal external corner, I would like to see how the components come together there to estimate where a crack is most likely to form.
Hello Jann, thanks for your answers. What exactly do you mean by sealing? With acrylic?
Regarding the internal external corner: I will be on site and will provide pictures later. But there is no joint there, only the corner of the concrete element is chamfered.
And about the question regarding the watertight basement: we are not building a “white tank” (fully waterproof concrete shell). The basement contractor sold us a pressure-resistant waterproof basement with epoxy resin. I don’t know if that is good or bad. Actually, I would not have installed any waterproofing (we only have sand), but we need to allow surface water to infiltrate. It made sense to me that this would then flow into the backfilled, less compacted excavation, so I decided on that approach.
I have access to a large standards database. Is the WU guideline a standard or a guideline? What is its reference number?
Hello,
this is the DAfStB guideline for watertight concrete structures.
Maybe I will do an explanatory test on this sometime.
A "water pressure–resistant basement" would be a properly constructed “white tank.”
I don’t want to discourage your decision, but paying 500€ for professional advice would probably have saved you a lot of money. Water penetrates concrete elements through cracks. If you seal the concrete with epoxy resin and it cracks or has already cracked (sealing is not the same as injection grouting), you still have a sealed concrete surface through which water can enter.
In your case, I don’t expect any problems, but what you bought is not the reason. In my opinion, without knowing all the details, you were probably sold something. But anyway, you have it now, and I think it will work.
this is the DAfStB guideline for watertight concrete structures.
Maybe I will do an explanatory test on this sometime.
A "water pressure–resistant basement" would be a properly constructed “white tank.”
I don’t want to discourage your decision, but paying 500€ for professional advice would probably have saved you a lot of money. Water penetrates concrete elements through cracks. If you seal the concrete with epoxy resin and it cracks or has already cracked (sealing is not the same as injection grouting), you still have a sealed concrete surface through which water can enter.
In your case, I don’t expect any problems, but what you bought is not the reason. In my opinion, without knowing all the details, you were probably sold something. But anyway, you have it now, and I think it will work.
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