ᐅ Ground source heat pump with cooling function – controllable?
Created on: 29 Oct 2013 09:17
K
kaho674
Hello,
we would like to install a geothermal heating system with a cooling function from a well-known manufacturer in our house. It can be controlled in the upper rooms (including bedrooms). On the ground floor, it is uncontrolled because the heat has to go somewhere when the heating is on. Now my question:
In the height of summer, we would of course like to cool the rooms, but primarily the rooms upstairs. Is it possible to close the heating circuit downstairs, for example with an additional valve, so that only the upper floor is cooled in summer?
PS: Please no discussions about the pros or cons of the cooling function. Thank you.
we would like to install a geothermal heating system with a cooling function from a well-known manufacturer in our house. It can be controlled in the upper rooms (including bedrooms). On the ground floor, it is uncontrolled because the heat has to go somewhere when the heating is on. Now my question:
In the height of summer, we would of course like to cool the rooms, but primarily the rooms upstairs. Is it possible to close the heating circuit downstairs, for example with an additional valve, so that only the upper floor is cooled in summer?
PS: Please no discussions about the pros or cons of the cooling function. Thank you.
Hello,
first of all, thank you for the information. Here is an overview of the situation for better understanding:
We have a south-facing plot on open land—no trees, no shade... it will definitely get warm in the summer.
The cooling function costs us about €1,300 (around $1,400) more than without it. While this is not insignificant, it is rather marginal considering the total investment.
As mentioned before, the goal is to cool the bedroom slightly during the height of summer. We hope for up to 4°C (7°F) lower temperatures compared to the other rooms.
The building consists of two full floors with 36.5cm (14 inches) Ytong walls (achieving KfW70 standard). The rooms are therefore not located directly under the roof (insulation is on the ceiling of the upper floor). The bedroom already faces north.
Since it is the bedroom and we usually are not lying on the floor there, the whole “cold feet” discussion is irrelevant.
Well, we’ll see if it works out as we hope. We would be happy to share our experience.
first of all, thank you for the information. Here is an overview of the situation for better understanding:
We have a south-facing plot on open land—no trees, no shade... it will definitely get warm in the summer.
The cooling function costs us about €1,300 (around $1,400) more than without it. While this is not insignificant, it is rather marginal considering the total investment.
As mentioned before, the goal is to cool the bedroom slightly during the height of summer. We hope for up to 4°C (7°F) lower temperatures compared to the other rooms.
The building consists of two full floors with 36.5cm (14 inches) Ytong walls (achieving KfW70 standard). The rooms are therefore not located directly under the roof (insulation is on the ceiling of the upper floor). The bedroom already faces north.
Since it is the bedroom and we usually are not lying on the floor there, the whole “cold feet” discussion is irrelevant.
Well, we’ll see if it works out as we hope. We would be happy to share our experience.
P
perlenmann31 Oct 2013 08:38Hello,
I find this interesting. I had also considered it at one point but decided against it.
As I understand it now, a minimal cooling effect of about 1-2°C (2-4°F) is possible with such a cooling function? To put it simply, what is the “cost” of that? How much energy does it require?
Wouldn’t it be more reasonable—and probably more cost-effective in terms of investment (and possibly running costs)—to only cool the bedroom with air conditioning?
@Euro: What does the heavy construction class mean?
I find this interesting. I had also considered it at one point but decided against it.
As I understand it now, a minimal cooling effect of about 1-2°C (2-4°F) is possible with such a cooling function? To put it simply, what is the “cost” of that? How much energy does it require?
Wouldn’t it be more reasonable—and probably more cost-effective in terms of investment (and possibly running costs)—to only cool the bedroom with air conditioning?
@Euro: What does the heavy construction class mean?
P
perlenmann31 Oct 2013 09:38Ah thanks, I thought it was always compressed by the compressor.
perlenmann schrieb:
Wouldn’t it be more practical and probably more cost-effective (including ongoing costs) to only cool the bedroom with air conditioning? Putting electricity costs aside, an air conditioner always requires a way to dispose of the water. Usually, this means making a hole through the wall to the outside. Then there is an unsightly unit mounted on the exterior wall or something similar. We didn’t want that.
In principle, an air conditioner is definitely much more effective—of course. With a different construction method (for example, more glass, a pitched roof, less insulation), I would probably have considered including one from the start of the house build.
P
perlenmann31 Oct 2013 10:16Well, I thought that if I only get a 1-degree drop for 1300€ (about $), that’s very little. It wouldn’t be enough reason for me to spend money.
An air conditioner would actually achieve more of the cooling effect I have in mind. I wasn’t thinking of a professional split system with installation, more like a small unit with a condensate water tank. It seems to be just one room of 15-20m² (160-215 sq ft) and maybe for around 20 days per year, right?
An air conditioner would actually achieve more of the cooling effect I have in mind. I wasn’t thinking of a professional split system with installation, more like a small unit with a condensate water tank. It seems to be just one room of 15-20m² (160-215 sq ft) and maybe for around 20 days per year, right?
kaho674 schrieb:
Leaving aside the electricity costs, an air conditioning system always requires a way to dispose of the water. Usually, this means creating a hole in the wall to the outside. Then there’s an ugly box mounted on the exterior wall or something similar. We didn’t want that. Yes, all as part of a new build… no problem at all… you can run the water directly into the sewer system, creating the wall opening is done in no time, and the ugly box is placed outside in a corner on the ground and can be covered with specially designed wooden slats…
As already mentioned, with the passive cooling approach you’re using, you can’t expect more than a 1–2 degrees Celsius (2–4 degrees Fahrenheit) drop. When the sun shines on the house for a few days in midsummer and it heats up… then it’s questionable whether you’ll feel any cooling effect at all…
Similar topics