ᐅ Electrical specification review with developer preparation
Created on: 2 Jul 2021 13:15
V
vorkalmatador
Hello dear forum members,
to keep it brief: Next Monday we have the electrical planning meeting for the shell of our upcoming semi-detached house.
We have already considered the basics (location of light fixtures, switches, motors, power outlets, network sockets), but I would like to clarify a few points before I have to deal with the probably rather unmotivated electrician from the builder on Monday 🙂
Well, it turned out a bit longer than expected, sorry.
I hope you can still help me a bit so I can tell the electrician exactly what I want and not be brushed off with comments like “no, that’s not how it’s done.”
Best regards
to keep it brief: Next Monday we have the electrical planning meeting for the shell of our upcoming semi-detached house.
We have already considered the basics (location of light fixtures, switches, motors, power outlets, network sockets), but I would like to clarify a few points before I have to deal with the probably rather unmotivated electrician from the builder on Monday 🙂
- Preparation for Wallbox: We would like to have the necessary connections (11 kW, 3-phase) prepared so we can connect a wallbox charger in the future. The plan is to install the wallbox on the outer wall of the house (36cm (14 inches) aerated concrete). Will the raw cables just stick out of a hole, or how is this typically done? In case I later decide not to mount the wallbox directly on the wall but further back in the garden, could the wiring be “extended”?
- Network Access Point: Network sockets are planned in several rooms, partly single, partly double (please don’t criticize me for not having all double, I can still add more later. The number of sockets was negotiated in the contract). Some are in aerated concrete, some in drywall. In both the ground floor corridor and the upper floor corridor, I have planned network sockets to install Ubiquiti PoE access points. Since I won’t be able to embed the device in the concrete ceiling anymore, the plan is at least on the ground floor to mount it relatively high on the wall. Is there anything special to consider here, or will the connection be prepared like a “normal” network socket, and then the flat access point is just plugged in? Between the upper floor and the attic is a wooden ceiling (not built yet). Could I plan to mount it there on the ceiling, or will the electrician laugh at me and say that’s not possible?
- Network Wiring: If I understand correctly, the electrician will run the in-wall cabling inside to the sockets. These cables end somewhere, hopefully in the utility room, where they must be connected to a patch panel. Do I have to do this myself, or is this included when the builder contract states “installation of 10 network sockets”? Then from the patch panel, a patch cable goes per run into the switch, which is connected via patch cable to LAN1 of the router.
- "Smart" Roller Shutter Motors: All our roller shutters will be motorized; unfortunately, the contract does not specify which motor. We would like to control the shutters via app so we can close or open everything while sitting on the couch downstairs. What makes the most sense here? Upgrading to a “smart” motor for probably quite some extra cost? Or just smartifying the switches? I’ve also read you can simply ask the electrician to make the wall box recess a bit deeper to install a 2.5 or similar Shelly smart relay between the switch and motor if needed. Do electricians usually agree to this, or are there warranty issues? Any other suggestions?
- Power Supply for the Garden: We would like to have electricity in the garden area, for example where the shed or carport will be later. We are not 100% certain yet where exactly the shed and carport will be, so we cannot give the electrician precise information. How can this be prepared? Conduits are not flexible either.
- Intercom System: Our semi-detached house is on a great lot, about 55m (180 feet) from the street. Since the house next door is currently for sale and we don’t know what the buyers will do, there is currently no gate at the front. Surely one will be installed later; should we already have a conduit installed there? A modern video intercom at the gate probably won’t work as there will be no internet connection. Or could I have a network cable run in a conduit to the front and then connect a camera with Power over Ethernet there?
Well, it turned out a bit longer than expected, sorry.
I hope you can still help me a bit so I can tell the electrician exactly what I want and not be brushed off with comments like “no, that’s not how it’s done.”
Best regards
B
borderpuschl13 Jul 2021 14:17I also think an extra cabinet is much better. What do you need to be flexible for here?
V
vorkalmatador13 Jul 2021 14:37A small network cabinet was planned, yes.
If I understand you correctly, it is okay for the electrician to terminate a keystone jack directly at the end, and then I connect with a short patch cable to a keystone patch panel. From there, I use short patch cables to the switch, which then connects to LAN1 of the router, correct?!
Thank you for your help!
If I understand you correctly, it is okay for the electrician to terminate a keystone jack directly at the end, and then I connect with a short patch cable to a keystone patch panel. From there, I use short patch cables to the switch, which then connects to LAN1 of the router, correct?!
Thank you for your help!
untergasse4313 Jul 2021 15:47vorkalmatador schrieb:
If I understand you correctly, it’s okay for the electrician to attach a keystone jack directly to the end of the cable, and then I use a short patch cable to connect to a keystone patch panel. From there, I use more short patch cables to the switch, which then connects to LAN1 on the router, right?Almost. You haven’t actually seen a keystone or a patch panel with keystone jacks in use yet, have you?This is what keystone jacks on installed cables look like:
This is what a patch panel for keystone jacks with keystones installed looks like:
From there, you connect with a short patch cable to the switch. The advantage of keystone jacks is that you can easily change the order on the patch panel.
borderpuschl schrieb:
Why would you need to be flexible here?For example, if you need PoE for access points, but the switch only provides PoE on certain ports. This setup allows you to manage it cleanly without messy cable tangles (PoE ports usually on the far left, access point connections on the far right, etc.). Or maybe you want a specific order on the patch panel—and therefore on the switch—or for other reasons. It’s simply neater, and you avoid having that bulky metal piece with the stiff cable bundle in the rack, which is really hard to organize. Of course, none of this is absolutely necessary, but it just works better and is much cleaner overall. Plus, keystone jacks are much easier to install compared to a punch-down block (LSA field) when space is tight. It only has advantages, no disadvantages.This is what a fairly neat setup would look like. It would look even better with a 24-port switch that has its ports arranged in a single row:
This is how I installed the UniFy APs. A deep flush-mounted box with a Keystone jack installed on a solid-core cable. A very short and extra flexible patch cable is used to connect the access point. I drilled a hole in the mounting plate of the access point and attached it. Unfortunately, the drilling pattern of the flush-mounted box does not exactly match the mounting plate, but I managed to secure it with two screws, which is more than enough.
By the way, they are mounted on the wall side and work perfectly.
untergasse43 schrieb:
There are only advantages and no disadvantages.Except for the fact that it is a bit more expensive. However, for example, our electrician refused to work without keystone jacks as a rule, so there was no cheaper alternative anyway.Similar topics